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I have the coolant low message again,
I have replaced the overflow jug once about a year ago for the same reason because I can not buy the sensor alone.
Is there a way to just unhook the sensor and put some type resistor on the plug to trick the computer?
I know that may not be a good idea but I am **** about checking oil and coolant level once or twice a week.
Plus these cars are designed to run with no water in them for a limited time anyway.
I have the coolant low message again,
I have replaced the overflow jug once about a year ago for the same reason because I can not buy the sensor alone.
Is there a way to just unhook the sensor and put some type resistor on the plug to trick the computer?
I know that may not be a good idea but I am **** about checking oil and coolant level once or twice a week.
Plus these cars are designed to run with no water in them for a limited time anyway.
It's just a switch. It closes when the coolant is full.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12'-'13-'14-'15
I have this issue also. I replaced my 99 coolant tank with a 2004 because it looked prettier. LOL Well now I can not plug that sensor plug in and it makes my coolant temp gauge dance around and the car will pop into open/closed loop from time to time. How do I disable it?
I have this issue also. I replaced my 99 coolant tank with a 2004 because it looked prettier. LOL Well now I can not plug that sensor plug in and it makes my coolant temp gauge dance around and the car will pop into open/closed loop from time to time. How do I disable it?
Cajun
You are talking about two different sensors here bro. The coolant level, as you know is used in the reservoir, while the coolant temp is located on the front drivers side head. I don't see how the coolant level sensor would affect the temperature reading. Sounds like you have two separate issues.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12'-'13-'14-'15
Originally Posted by lucky131969
You are talking about two different sensors here bro. The coolant level, as you know is used in the reservoir, while the coolant temp is located on the front drivers side head. I don't see how the coolant level sensor would affect the temperature reading. Sounds like you have two separate issues.
I replaced the coolant temp sensor about 2k miles ago but it was in a plastic baggy for 4 months while the engine was being rebuilt. So the coolant level plug and DIC code can not have second order effects such as my temp gauge pegging and moving back to normal? If it can affect this then could that temp movement or percieved temp movement cause the PCM/ ECM to adjust timing causing lean/ fat condition? Thanks
I replaced the coolant temp sensor about 2k miles ago but it was in a plastic baggy for 4 months while the engine was being rebuilt. So the coolant level plug and DIC code can not have second order effects such as my temp gauge pegging and moving back to normal? If it can affect this then could that temp movement or percieved temp movement cause the PCM/ ECM to adjust timing causing lean/ fat condition? Thanks
The ECT certainly can have an effect on how the engine runs, the coolant level will not. While they are both discrete circuits, the coolant temp uses a 5 volt ref, and the coolant level uses 12 volts (so no tie in there).
If you are experiencing problems with the coolant temp indication. I would inspect the wiring to the sensor plug, its common for it to become damaged, especially when doing head swaps, etc. Check to make sure you have the correct voltage and ground. Shake the wiring down with the meter connected to see if you have a flaky connection or harness.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12'-'13-'14-'15
Originally Posted by lucky131969
The ECT certainly can have an effect on how the engine runs, the coolant level will not. While they are both discrete circuits, the coolant temp uses a 5 volt ref, and the coolant level uses 12 volts (so no tie in there).
If you are experiencing problems with the coolant temp indication. I would inspect the wiring to the sensor plug, its common for it to become damaged, especially when doing head swaps, etc. Check to make sure you have the correct voltage and ground. Shake the wiring down with the meter connected to see if you have a flaky connection or harness.
My installer put a new wiring harness on when I the motor swap was done but not sure if that harness for the 402 included a new connection to the temp sensor.
My tuner said he believes the problem to be ground related which is causing the gauge to flutter and send car into the rapidly changing lean/fat condition. Would you agree that could be the issue or would the temp sensor not have that much effect on AFR?
My installer put a new wiring harness on when I the motor swap was done but not sure if that harness for the 402 included a new connection to the temp sensor.
My tuner said he believes the problem to be ground related which is causing the gauge to flutter and send car into the rapidly changing lean/fat condition. Would you agree that could be the issue or would the temp sensor not have that much effect on AFR?
Cajun
Sure. The ECT is a primary input to the PCM to enable closed loop operation. Like I stated earlier, the ECT is a discrete circuit, so the ground comes directly from the PCM.....inspect the wiring/plug using a meter.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12'-'13-'14-'15
Originally Posted by lucky131969
Sure. The ECT is a primary input to the PCM to enable closed loop operation. Like I stated earlier, the ECT is a discrete circuit, so the ground comes directly from the PCM.....inspect the wiring/plug using a meter.
Sorry, didnt mean to sound stupid. I have no idea about this stuff and didnt quite understand weather the ECT meant the sensor or the control unit. I will mention this to my tuner and see if he can help me in testing the voltage and checking ground. Thanks man
Sorry, didnt mean to sound stupid. I have no idea about this stuff and didnt quite understand weather the ECT meant the sensor or the control unit. I will mention this to my tuner and see if he can help me in testing the voltage and checking ground. Thanks man
There is no control unit, just the sensor to the PCM. When the indication starts fluctuating, you can unplug the sensor to see if the indication goes to zero(which it should). Also, you can measure the resistance of the sensor with the connector off, to make sure it's appropriate for the temperature.