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On the 98, what would cause the fuel pressure to drop from 60 to 0 in a couple of seconds after switching the car off, and NOT have any pressure when it is switched on? (causing the car to have to turn over for several seconds before it will crank.)
(I just had a dyno tune done, and it wasn't a problem before the tune)
The injectors are basically brand new; Although they are several months old, I put them in when I did my blower, so that have apprx. 1600 miles on them.
The pump IS brand new. I had a few delivery problem, so I pulled the old LPE pump and put a brand new one in a few months back, and have just now gotten it tuned (for WOT)It has approx. 800 miles on it.
The injectors are basically brand new; Although they are several months old, I put them in when I did my blower, so that have apprx. 1600 miles on them.
The pump IS brand new. I had a few delivery problem, so I pulled the old LPE pump and put a brand new one in a few months back, and have just now gotten it tuned (for WOT)It has approx. 800 miles on it.
Do you have a service manual? There is a great procedure for isolating a fuel bleed down issue. You also need special line adapters.
Thanks; I thought that was it... Any suggestions on how to test it??
Don't have the service manual in front of me. Typically, if the diaphragm ruptures, it will leak fuel when you remove the vacuum line, or have a very strong odor of fuel.
I don't have a line on it since I am FI (was told to vent it to atmosphere instead of installing it in the airflow like stock) and I just looked at it and it has no leak. There is a slight odor around the engine, but nothing strong.
I pulled the injector rail out to check for an injector leak, and laid it on a towel and switched the car on. You can hear the pump run a few seconds and shut off as it always does, but there is not a drop leaking from anywhere. Gauge shows zero, when it used to show 60 with the car switched on but not running.
Where do I go from here?
Ok, I'm confused. You have zero pressure when you turn the ignition on, or you get 60 psi initially, and it bleeds down quickly?
PM sent.
When the car is running, it is 59-60; When I switch it off, it bleeds down from 60 to zero is 2-3 secs.
If I switch the car on, the digital gauge I have, has to quickly go through it's little diagnostic test, which take a few seconds. when it shows a reading it's 2-1-0 (in less than a second span), then stays at 0 as long as it's switched on.
When the car is running, it is 59-60; When I switch it off, it bleeds down from 60 to zero is 2-3 secs.
If I switch the car on, the digital gauge I have, has to quickly go through it's little diagnostic test, which take a few seconds. when it shows a reading it's 2-1-0 (in less than a second span), then stays at 0 as long as it's switched on.
Ok. So you've already pulled the fuel rail, and verified you don't have a stuck injector. So now you have to determine if the where the fuel is bleeding down....input or return. There are two adapters (J37287-1, -2) that really make short work of troubleshooting this problem. They are not expensive, and available on ebay.
When the car is running, it is 59-60; When I switch it off, it bleeds down from 60 to zero is 2-3 secs.
If I switch the car on, the digital gauge I have, has to quickly go through it's little diagnostic test, which take a few seconds. when it shows a reading it's 2-1-0 (in less than a second span), then stays at 0 as long as it's switched on.
Having a similar issue, I installed a mechanical gage on the fuel rail and mine bleeds down 20 psi in 10 minutes and goes to 0 in 30 minutes.
The other thing is it runs shi!!y for a few seconds when hot like a warmed up engine that's flooded.
I'm almost sure mines a bleeding injector, cold it starts instantly hot is another story.
Try turning on the ing. and listen for the pump to quit running before cranking the engine if it starts right away it's probably the check valve, unless you also have a hot start issue.
Ok. So you've already pulled the fuel rail, and verified you don't have a stuck injector. So now you have to determine if the where the fuel is bleeding down....input or return. There are two adapters (J37287-1, -2) that really make short work of troubleshooting this problem. They are not expensive, and available on ebay.
I found the adapters on ebay. Will they allow me to definitely determine whether or not it is the regulator of the fuel pump? Is there any other way to determine without getting them?
I'm not being cheap, It just that I was supposed to leave Friday to take a quick trip to the mountains this weekend, and it will be NOTHING without the vette, and it would probably be Friday before the adapters arrive; far too late to order what I need to fix the problem.
I found the adapters on ebay. Will they allow me to definitely determine whether or not it is the regulator of the fuel pump? Is there any other way to determine without getting them?
I'm not being cheap, It just that I was supposed to leave Friday to take a quick trip to the mountains this weekend, and it will be NOTHING without the vette, and it would probably be Friday before the adapters arrive; far too late to order what I need to fix the problem.
Perhaps another forum member will have a better suggestion. Good luck...
If I can't find another way to isolate the problem, I am going to have to do somthing to fix the car, whether it's fixed this week or two weeks form now. Will these adapters definitely allow me to determine the problem?
Will these adapters definitely allow me to determine the problem?
Definitely? Not having seen your car, or what you've done to it, I just can't say definitely. What I can tell you, is that I've used the aforementioned shut off adapters to troubleshoot a number of GM vehicles with fuel bleed down problems. They are also specifically mentioned in the service manual to isolate fuel issues.
Someone else may have a creative way to solve your problem...as I'm out of useful information.
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