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There is a squeaking noise coming from my AC Tensioner pulley. Do I need to replace the tensioner + pulley, or just the pulley?
I had this same squeaking on a different car, and it was explained to me when I got it fixed that the ball bearings in the pulley were bad, thus emitting the annoying sound that I was hearing. From this I gather that just replacing the pully should fix this, but I wanted to check with you guys first.
The pully is about $16, and the tensioner + pulley is only $50ish. Normally, I would just replace the entire thing but money is tight right now.
Also, are the idler pulley and tensioner pulley the same size? I originally bought and swapped out the idler pulley because I thought the noise was coming from there, so I have a spare. Just dont know if it will fit on the tensioner pulley.
I'm 99.9% sure the tensioner and idler pulleys are the same part. Take the tensioner pulley off and compare. I bet it'll fit. I personally doubt it is the tensioner mechanism. My a/c belt was making a terrible squeal a couple of years back, and I thought for sure it was one of the pulleys. Changed out the belt, and it became as quiet as a church mouse.
I'm 99.9% sure the tensioner and idler pulleys are the same part. Take the tensioner pulley off and compare. I bet it'll fit. I personally doubt it is the tensioner mechanism. My a/c belt was making a terrible squeal a couple of years back, and I thought for sure it was one of the pulleys. Changed out the belt, and it became as quiet as a church mouse.
We recently replaced the AC belt when we installed my SLP harmonic balancer. The squeaking was there before, and afterward. Do you think I can just replace the pulley (on the tensioner) or do I need to replace the full part (tensioner and pully)?
We recently replaced the AC belt when we installed my SLP harmonic balancer. The squeaking was there before, and afterward. Do you think I can just replace the pulley (on the tensioner) or do I need to replace the full part (tensioner and pully)?
I know that you can change just the pulley. I've done it. I changed both of the pulleys, and I'm almost certain I used the same idler pulley part number for both locations. I have a feeling that you can't buy the tensioner pulley seperately...they try and sell you the whole unit.
I know that you can change just the pulley. I've done it. I changed both of the pulleys, and I'm almost certain I used the same idler pulley part number for both locations. I have a feeling that you can't buy the tensioner pulley seperately...they try and sell you the whole unit.
That makes sense... When I bought the idler pulley, it was called a "idler/tensioner pulley" on the screen, but the box just says idler pulley. From your feedback, I think I can just order another idler pulley and install it on the tensioner. Thanx for your help.
I have been repacking the pulleys for some years. Its very easy, after removing it, wipe it down good so you don't get dirt inside, then carefully pry off the protective cover, apply some wheel bearing greese onto the bearings, then pop the cover back on. I've done this on many C5's, no problems yet. This is usually necessary when they get about 75k miles.
I have been repacking the pulleys for some years. Its very easy, after removing it, wipe it down good so you don't get dirt inside, then carefully pry off the protective cover, apply some wheel bearing greese onto the bearings, then pop the cover back on. I've done this on many C5's, no problems yet. This is usually necessary when they get about 75k miles.
Those bearings run at a speed much faster than a wheel bearing.
I've taken the seals off and done that also but it's a temporary fix.
For less than 20 bucks you get a pulley that should last 50-75k miles ( your mileage may vary )
Lots of posts 3-4 weeks ago over on the ZO6 Forum...all the part no's for main drive and AC...Gates no's are what most use and run abt. $12-14 at all the majors such as NAPA, CarQuest etc.
Those bearings run at a speed much faster than a wheel bearing.
I've taken the seals off and done that also but it's a temporary fix.
For less than 20 bucks you get a pulley that should last 50-75k miles ( your mileage may vary )
Well, How about over 50k miles since I repacked the pulleys and all 4 are still nice a quiet - I wouldn't call that temporary. It works. And if you are doing all 4 pulleys, you save almost $100.
Well, How about over 50k miles since I repacked the pulleys and all 4 are still nice a quiet - I wouldn't call that temporary. It works. And if you are doing all 4 pulleys, you save almost $100.
Auto Zone sells just the pulley. It will be aluminum not plastic and It was a special order for about $20 I think. On my 97 both the pulleys are the same on the A/C .You'll need to remove the tensioner, then remove the pulley off the tensioner and replace it. I broke my tensioner trying to get the pulley off while it was still on the car.
I think this is the pully:
For your 1997 Chevrolet Corvette 5.7L SFI
Price:$16.99
AVAILABILITY:
SEND TO STORE LISTSPECIAL ORDERVisit your local store to special order.SHIP TO HOMEAVAILABLE Ships within 2 business days.
Part Number: 231135
Weight: 0.4 lbs
Warranty: 1 YR
Notes: Pulley only A/C belt drive
Sku: 445422
Description: Idler/Tensioner Pulley
Permanently Lubricated Unit: Yes
Rust And Corrosion Resistant: Yes
Shipping Information: Overnight and Two Day shipping are not available for PO Box, APO/FPO/DPO or US Territory addresses.
JUST FYI my a/c tensioner was squeeking from the pivot pin and not the pulley. The pin wore allowing misalignment of the pulley to the belt run. The pulley bearing was still good but the tensioner main bearing shot. You might be better to replace the entire a/c tensioner. Warning it is a PITA to change, and don't forget I told you it was. Comes off in 5 min goes on in 2 hrs after you cut a special tool of wood to get it in position for all 3 hands.
JUST FYI my a/c tensioner was squeeking from the pivot pin and not the pulley. The pin wore allowing misalignment of the pulley to the belt run. The pulley bearing was still good but the tensioner main bearing shot. You might be better to replace the entire a/c tensioner. Warning it is a PITA to change, and don't forget I told you it was. Comes off in 5 min goes on in 2 hrs after you cut a special tool of wood to get it in position for all 3 hands.
So how did you guys that replaced the tensioner go about doing so? On a lift? From the top only? What else did you have to remove to get to the tensioner or were you able to remove it without? I know the tranny lines are in the way, but not sure how far the bolt will come out so I don't know if they are truly "in the way" or not. Thanks for any help.
Glen