Well,it figures-2 weeks after I posted how trouble free my 98 Coupe has been for the last 11 months,the Slave cylinder decides to take a dump.
So,tomorrow after work,I begin the process of changing it out.
Looks pretty straight forward-some bolts,lots of wires,and move some really heavy stuff from where it is to where I need it to be,then put it all back the way it was(as long as the clutch passes inspection).
The only thing I'm worried about is the ABS Control,which is mounted on the assend on an early 98.
Does anyone know if this is going to have to be removed,or will it stay with the body when the rest of the drive train comes out?
I suppose I'll find out soon enough if no one responds,but right now I'm just wondering if it's going to be a pita or not...

 

Don't have a clue about the ABS unit. Mine was a '99 and its mounted in the front. But, while you are in there, might as well replaced the clutch and rear engine oil seal at the same time.

 

Just follow the service manual, you'll be fine

 

It's a lot of work, but definitely doable if you're mechanically inclined. Pulling the heavy, awkward driveline out of the way without it falling on your face or damaging something is tricky. If you're lowering the driveline right out, watch the brake lines running down the driver's side of the tunnel. There is also a wire harness running along the top of the torque tube...don't forget to unclip it. Sliding it back in again straight and level so it engages the clutch properly is tricky too. Take your time and don't force it in. Do you like to cuss while you work on cars?

P.s. I'd take this golden opportunity to install a remote clutch bleeder.

 

IMHO, its a fairly easy job but just time consuming. Just take your time. One issue I had was when I went to re-install the torque tube. MAKE SURE that the wiring harness doesn't get pinched! Also, while your there, go ahead and install a new master too.

The hardest part for me was disconnecting the damn 'quick disconnect' for the master/slave line. I have NO idea why they call it a 'quick disconnect'

 

the rear abs unit stays with the car, you'll just have to find a way to support it when you drop the rear cradle...

i used some bungee cords stretched across the bottom of the car to keep the abs unit up.

 

Yup. Same thing happened to me. Slave cylinder took a crap.

However I've done my clutch twice on my car (on jackstands) and have gotten into the swing of things It's a pain in the ***, time consuming but doable.

I change the slave cylinder EVERY time I have to pull the driveline. No sense in taking the risk that it's going to fail

Oh yeah, on the master clutch cylinder (the one attached to the firewall) make sure it's securely "rotated" and locked in place. Once, I didn't tighten it down, it fell off of the wall while I was driving effectively rendering my clutch useless I had to drive home in second gear- and at stop lights, pull the car into N, then turn off the car, put the car in gear, turn it back on while in gear and keep going

 

Well,7 hours on it yesterday(1.5 hours just getting it 28" in the air),and I'm to the "Make sure it doesn't fall on your face" stage.
Interesting you should mention the drivers side brake/fuel lines in the tunnel-no harm done,but they sure make a loud pop when they get stuck on the shifter mount !(I should have read this post yesterday,but I was kind of busy)

Definetly doable,not difficult,just time consuming-and cussing is a very important part of the procedure

Interestingly,the very last time the slave worked,was driving it up on the ramps-once I shut it off and tried the clutch again,it went to the floor and stayed there,with a goodly amount of fluid pissing out underneath-Looks like my timing was right on!

I installed a new master last weekend,and after wasting an hour on the "Quick disconnect",and not getting it to disconnect,I went ahead and just left it and installed the line onto the master after mounting it,figuring I'd worry about bleeding it later.

Well,by the time I got the keeper clip back on the pedal,it was bled-I could actually hear the fluid bubbling in as I messed with the pedal.

Since the slave comes with a new disconnect,I'm just going to cut the line today so I can make the QD more accessible,since now i HAVE to get it disconnected...yes,there will be cussing involved-I'll probably even invent a few new names for the GM engineer who designed that particular fitting...

Oh,yeah,and the remote clutch bleeder is on the way from Tick

(Would it have killed GM to include one from the factory-I'm sure the same guy that designed the Quick disconnect must have chosen the location for the bleed fitting on the slave...that guy defifntely deserves a brown star next to his name)

Thanks for all the responses-I'll keep you posted on todays progress...

 

Wait 'til you have to put the driveline back into the car. If you don't get the angle just right (make absolutely sure the clutch disc is centered!), it won't "spear" into the clutch disc and you'll be swearing even more

And yes the quick disconnect is a royal PITA. Especially if your car is older, they tend to get stuck, but once you see how it disconnects, it isn't that bad. I found soaking it with PB Blaster or similar then just using a screw driver to push down the white plastic ring helps. I once had to vice grip it open cause the fitting was just stuck even though the retainer "fingers" were released.

 

I made this simple tool to seperate the quick disconnect, and it worked like a *charm*. The thing practically popped apart before I even touched it. I've also heard of people using the flat wrench that comes with those little, air-powered die grinders. The opening is 5/8 wide, so you could probably take an old wrench and just grind 'er flat (around 1/8 thick)