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Having problems with "high voltage"...anyone know what would cause this?
My car sat for a month and I took it out last night and today. When I was driving the volts would go from 14, down to 11, then spike to 16! After a few minutes it would go back to normal. Then it would start going nuts. Consistantly going from low to extremely high. DIC comes on "High Voltage".
I took it to advance to have the battery and alternator checked out. They said it was good, but my starter appears to be loosing voltage. I dont have any problems with the starter though. Plus Im getting to much voltage. Would a loose connection cause this?
After leaving it was normal and stayed that way for about an hour. Now it is staying 15.4-16! Is something in the alternator going bad? The battery is an optima (1 year old) stock alternator (02 w/45K miles).
I checked the chassis grounds on both driver/pass side. They look new. Cleaned battery terminals (they looked new).
02 Z06
408ci
Procharger D1SC with A&A Bracket stock pulley
Snow Performance meth kit -boost ref-(recently added and powered to fuse box and has its own ground)
KB BAP
Racetronix Fuel system
My 1st guess would be battery-they tend to make alternators OVERCHARGE when they are on their last legs. Put the car on a trickle charger and see if it will fully charge SLOWLY. If it does, start the car and see what the voltage is.
14.9v at cruising speed is boiling the battery. Sometimes when RPM drops to idle, it'll go down to 12.9 for an instant, then back up. All lights are pulsating while driving.
125k miles. 6 month old battery.
This happened shortly after I deep cycled the battery while installing a satellite radio receiver. I should have used a battery charger, but it fired up so I just drove it that way and let the alternator charge it up from near dead.
Sounds like a bad regulator, right? I checked and cleaned the battery terminals. They were pretty bad, but it didn't help. I cleaned the chassis grounds that I could find from above. Didn't help.
So is it time for a new alternator? I hate throwing parts at a problem. Is there a diagnosis procedure? Am I asking for trouble if I use an Autozone remanufactured unit?
Wow...that is exactly the same thing. My battery was low and it fired up so I let it idle and then drove it to charge it back up.
THE PROBLEM
Bad voltage regulator in the alternator. The alternator itself is fine.
CHEAPER FIX
Find a shop that rebuilds alternators. One by me in DeKalb IL is going to replace it for $60-90. Drop off and wait while he does it.
try googling alternator repair shop in your city.
Good luck.
If you are getting wild voltage fluctuations, I would check the grounds.
Check the battery to see if it has over 12 volts when not charging.
In the old days, voltage regulators could stick wide open and cook the battery, or they could fail, and not charge at all. Now, I think the PCM also monitors the alternator output and if the alternator is not needed, the PCM can turn the alternator off. It may also check for abnormally high voltage.
Do you have any codes? P1637?
With an immediate need to have the car in usable condition, I went ahead and dropped in an Autozone reman alternator. "Refurbished in Mexico". Guess we outsource everything nowadays.
These kind of reports are normally only associated with bad batteries, bad alternators or bad electrical connnections at either the battery or the start solenoid where these all come together.
Thanks for all your help guys. I checked everything I could without throwing money at it. Turns out its my voltage regulator.
Had the optima retested to be sure its ok. I didnt have the problem very long at all. Plus when it spiked to high voltage I pulled over and shut it off.
I never had any codes. Thanks again.
Glad you found it. My 2000 did exactly the same thing, jumping to 16V, then down to 11, then normal. Turned out to be the connection at the starter solenoid. Guess I was lucky, the alt/reg checked out fine, and it's been good for over a year now after the bolt tightening.
hey guys Orlando Green here i have a 99 corvette drives fine until i cut it off. When i cut it off the car will not restart, pulled up the codes on the body control module it said not communicating. Disconnect BCM center plug car ran fine. Turned the car off 15min later same problem. My question is can i buy my BCM and just plug it in or do i have to take it and get it reset,also i pluged bcm back in after diconnecting ran fine .
Last edited by orlando green; Oct 21, 2009 at 04:57 PM.
hey guys Orlando Green here i have a 99 corvette drives fine until i cut it off. When i cut it off the car will not restart, pulled up the codes on the body control module it said not communicating. Disconnect BCM center plug car ran fine. Turned the car off 15min later same problem. My question is can i buy my BCM and just plug it in or do i have to take it and get it reset,also i pluged bcm back in after diconnecting ran fine .
You need to pull your codes to see what its complaining about. There have been a few BCM failures, but not many.
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