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another spark plug removal help

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Old Oct 25, 2009 | 10:23 PM
  #1  
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From: bellflower ca
Default another spark plug removal help

i managed to remove 7 out of 8 plugs. unable to remove driver's side plug closest to the firewall. will this tool do the job? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95487
if not, what can i use?
and about applying the silicone in the spark plug boot, how much do you put and how do you apply it?

thanks. BTW i have LG long tube headers (don't know if this makes a difference)
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Old Oct 25, 2009 | 11:08 PM
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Yes, definitely a plug wrench with a moving joint attached to it will help alot. You really don't need the entire set, stop by any local auto store and buy only the size you need. Also, remove the end of the vacumn tube from the brake booster and move it out of the way to allow more space to work in and #7 should be pretty accessable. You probably can't see down there so just do it by feel. Did mine a few weeks ago with the tools talked about here and went pretty smooth. I however, don't have headers so not sure how much that complicates changing #7. I'd put dialectric grease on both the plug end and the coil end of the wires. I used a Q-tip and simply smeared a coating around the inside of the rubber boots. Good luck, Ron

PS- be sure you don't use silicon, use dialectric grease that you can buy at the same store you buy your new plug wrench from

Last edited by RSchleder; Oct 25, 2009 at 11:10 PM.
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Old Oct 25, 2009 | 11:36 PM
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thanks
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Old Oct 26, 2009 | 03:09 AM
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use an impact swivel
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Old Oct 26, 2009 | 09:55 AM
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I never used anything other than a 6" socket wrench and plug socket. Just pull off the stuff in your way ... AIR pipe, booster hose, etc. It's tight but not impossible.

Last edited by wcsinx; Oct 26, 2009 at 07:00 PM.
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Old Oct 26, 2009 | 10:00 AM
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Here is what I used:

LINK

I actually used two of the 3/8" ones along with an extension and a standard spark plug socket...Worked like a charm...
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Old Oct 26, 2009 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Gideon's_Test
Here is what I used:

LINK

I actually used two of the 3/8" ones along with an extension and a standard spark plug socket...Worked like a charm...
those are impact swivels

Last edited by SJPD; Oct 26, 2009 at 11:36 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old Oct 26, 2009 | 11:24 AM
  #8  
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silly question but has anybody tried to acess plug from under car or from wheel well I never looked but on many cars this is a big help
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Old Oct 26, 2009 | 04:33 PM
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Take some of the plumbing apart on that side, makes it alot easier to get the plug out/in.
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Old Oct 26, 2009 | 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by dougbfresh
Take some of the plumbing apart on that side, makes it alot easier to get the plug out/in.


For the 2nd time

Trust me guys, you don't need any special tools.
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Old Oct 26, 2009 | 06:19 PM
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From: bellflower ca
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i bought these tools:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=98484

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=36846


i'll post which works best.
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Old Oct 26, 2009 | 06:39 PM
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Disconnect the AIR plumbing above the #7 plug-it's not brain surgery.

Last edited by dougbfresh; Oct 26, 2009 at 08:15 PM.
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Old Oct 26, 2009 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by dougbfresh
Dsconnect the AIR plumbing above the #7 plug-it's not brain surgery.


We speak from experience, you and I, but they do not listen.
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Old Oct 26, 2009 | 09:18 PM
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I use a double swivel plug socket from Snap On.
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Old Oct 26, 2009 | 11:33 PM
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#8 PLUG done. removed everything that was in the way as suggested. i used the t-bar swivel wrench anyway, just because it's cool. thanks for the help.
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by dougbfresh
Take some of the plumbing apart on that side, makes it alot easier to get the plug out/in.
I've never had to take anything apart to change that plug and it's always been easy
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by jetning
#8 PLUG done. removed everything that was in the way as suggested. i used the t-bar swivel wrench anyway, just because it's cool. thanks for the help.
#8 is on the passenger side rear.
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To another spark plug removal help

Old Oct 27, 2009 | 11:36 AM
  #18  
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yup
7 is the one that gets the complaints
but it's easy if you have the correct tool
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 10:53 PM
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Default Auto Zone LIFETIME Swivel socket less than $5

Got all the other plugs with a regular spark plug socket and various extensions. #7 used the EL CHEAPO swivel socket from Auto Zone after tying back brake booster hose and other stuff in the way. Don't take out the plug all the way with the socket. I loosened all plugs say 1 to 2 turns and slipped some windshield vacuum hose over the tip. 2 to 4 inches works just fine and I used different lengths on some plugs. Then you FEEL the plug coming out of each hole. Do one at a time and use the hose to reinsert the plug making sure it goes in EASILY and ISN'T CROSSTHREADED. Don't want to have to do the drill and tap job or replace the heads. After screwing each plug in say 2 or 3 turns with the hose go back to the spark plug socket and torque it up. I found the torque wrench impossible to use on some of the plugs so I used the good old FEEL torque method using my calibrated hands. I also used some antisieze on the threads. GM says NO. I say YES. I don't need to break one off when trying to remove it. Used the iridium replacement plugs and replaced the wires with the GM red ones which are half the price of the black ones and look great.
Have Fun BIGHANK
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 11:32 PM
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I used never seize and didn't know GM said no. F em.
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