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i managed to remove 7 out of 8 plugs. unable to remove driver's side plug closest to the firewall. will this tool do the job? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95487
if not, what can i use?
and about applying the silicone in the spark plug boot, how much do you put and how do you apply it?
thanks. BTW i have LG long tube headers (don't know if this makes a difference)
Yes, definitely a plug wrench with a moving joint attached to it will help alot. You really don't need the entire set, stop by any local auto store and buy only the size you need. Also, remove the end of the vacumn tube from the brake booster and move it out of the way to allow more space to work in and #7 should be pretty accessable. You probably can't see down there so just do it by feel. Did mine a few weeks ago with the tools talked about here and went pretty smooth. I however, don't have headers so not sure how much that complicates changing #7. I'd put dialectric grease on both the plug end and the coil end of the wires. I used a Q-tip and simply smeared a coating around the inside of the rubber boots. Good luck, Ron
PS- be sure you don't use silicon, use dialectric grease that you can buy at the same store you buy your new plug wrench from
Last edited by RSchleder; Oct 25, 2009 at 11:10 PM.
I never used anything other than a 6" socket wrench and plug socket. Just pull off the stuff in your way ... AIR pipe, booster hose, etc. It's tight but not impossible.
Got all the other plugs with a regular spark plug socket and various extensions. #7 used the EL CHEAPO swivel socket from Auto Zone after tying back brake booster hose and other stuff in the way. Don't take out the plug all the way with the socket. I loosened all plugs say 1 to 2 turns and slipped some windshield vacuum hose over the tip. 2 to 4 inches works just fine and I used different lengths on some plugs. Then you FEEL the plug coming out of each hole. Do one at a time and use the hose to reinsert the plug making sure it goes in EASILY and ISN'T CROSSTHREADED. Don't want to have to do the drill and tap job or replace the heads. After screwing each plug in say 2 or 3 turns with the hose go back to the spark plug socket and torque it up. I found the torque wrench impossible to use on some of the plugs so I used the good old FEEL torque method using my calibrated hands. I also used some antisieze on the threads. GM says NO. I say YES. I don't need to break one off when trying to remove it. Used the iridium replacement plugs and replaced the wires with the GM red ones which are half the price of the black ones and look great.
Have Fun BIGHANK