Engine oil flush
i thought maybe i should buy some cheap oil add a little seafoam, run it for a few minutes then change it again to clear out everything..what do you guys think? by the way i have about 105k on the car
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
It really does a good job of getting all the old (dark) oil out.
You may have to jack the side a little though to get your pan under there.
What oil do you use? Mobil 1 hardly darkens at all after about 6000 miles in my 1998 C5 (and I have 123,000 miles on it). My car only uses 1/2 quart in that distance, if even that much.
It really does a good job of getting all the old (dark) oil out.
You may have to jack the side a little though to get your pan under there.

This is a good tip, but as "Vetedrmr" said in the previous post, as long as the engine remains clean inside, that's all that counts.
For example, I messed around with some aftermarket valve covers on a Z-28 that I also have. Could never get them to seal correctly, and I had them off and on several times before I gave up on them. However, during that time, I was able to see how clean the inside of the engine was. I changed the oil (dino oil) every 2000 miles, and it would come out black, but the inside of the engine was very clean.
In other words, "Don't worry, be happy".....
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Adding a half-can of Seafoam probably was pretty benign, but still don't base how dirty the engine is internally with how dirty the oil appears as you drain it.
Another thing you can do to give you some peace of mind is to get the oil analyzed. Many of us here (including me) use Blackstone labs (www.blackstone-labs.com). That'll give you some real data on how your engine is doing internally.
For example, my engine has gone through over 195K miles and seven years of autocross with the occasional DE. Point is, she's been run hard and taken care of. I used to run the oil a set number of miles, but analysis showed the oil had plenty of life left and there was no appreciable wear in the analyses done. So, I started running the oil life monitor down to 0%. Oil additive package still had plenty of margin, engine wear levels stayed consistent, and life went on like that until around 180,000 miles.
At that point the wear on the engine started trending upwards (well, duh!). After discussing this with Blackstone, I started changing the oil when the OLM gets below 50% remaining (still over 5,000 miles and a half dozen autocross events). Wear levels dropped back down to normal levels.
Point is, if you REALLY want to know what's going on with your engine, an oil analysis is a GREAT tool.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
Adding a half-can of Seafoam probably was pretty benign, but still don't base how dirty the engine is internally with how dirty the oil appears as you drain it.
Another thing you can do to give you some peace of mind is to get the oil analyzed. Many of us here (including me) use Blackstone labs (www.blackstone-labs.com). That'll give you some real data on how your engine is doing internally.
For example, my engine has gone through over 195K miles and seven years of autocross with the occasional DE. Point is, she's been run hard and taken care of. I used to run the oil a set number of miles, but analysis showed the oil had plenty of life left and there was no appreciable wear in the analyses done. So, I started running the oil life monitor down to 0%. Oil additive package still had plenty of margin, engine wear levels stayed consistent, and life went on like that until around 180,000 miles.
At that point the wear on the engine started trending upwards (well, duh!). After discussing this with Blackstone, I started changing the oil when the OLM gets below 50% remaining (still over 5,000 miles and a half dozen autocross events). Wear levels dropped back down to normal levels.
Point is, if you REALLY want to know what's going on with your engine, an oil analysis is a GREAT tool.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
Obviously, if you change the oil more often the amount of wear particles will go down, but are you actually reducing wear?
I have read comments that imply that you actually get more initial wear when you change the oil....but I am not sure that really makes any sense?
Modern oils have good detergeant additive packages that should preclude you from ever having to flush the crankcase if the car has been taken care of.
PS: My oil was dark brown after 6K and I only used 1/2 quart. (Pennzoil Platinum 10-30)
Last edited by fnsblum; Nov 11, 2009 at 09:44 PM.




















