Rear diff swap DIY advised?
For those of you contemplating swapping the rearend out yourselves, go for it! I now have an intimacy with the design that I wouldn't have otherwise.
:yesnod: :cheers:


congrats :cheers:
I now have just under 500 miles since my 3.42 upgrade. Absolutely no error codes nor shifting problems ( I went from the 3.15 to the 3.42 retaining the stock TC and did no PCM reprograming). The WOT 5900-6000rpm A4 shifts are heart pounding excitement.
I got a chance to drive recently in near 60 degree weather and found that I am squealing the tires a little bit from a first to second WOT shift... it never done that before. Standing starts give almost too much tire rotation; borderline burnouts. Plus nailing the throttle @ 30mph (along with the A4 downshift) equates to a pleasing little chirp from the rear tires... another surprise.
I couldn't be happier with this DIY - under $1000 - upgrade. Actually the total cost came in @ $700 since I had someone waiting to buy my 3.15s :)
Glad it worked out well for you. Have you had a chance to determine any improvement?
I don't remember, but did you install an aftermarket TC, or do any PCM shift point reprog?
I retained the stock converter, we do a lot of stop and go on the way home eastbound H50 through Sacramento and the driveability didn't change under normal throttle off the line. Plus, I wanted to keep the cost down, got the rearend for $550, picked up that Harbor Freight tranny jack, bought a couple bottles of gear oil and that was it.
Did the PCM change with a HPPIII I got used, cheap from the forum. Went 50% on shift firmness, but might decrease that, as the TC activates on WOT 1-2 shift. :D
Yep, after about 1000 miles, no codes, no probs, and going to WOT around 20-30 like you said, results in a loud chirp and TC activation!
Thanks again!
(I promised my gf I would be done after this, but...might go for a cam and pulley install next, after I get the Z bars and links on!) :eek:
Guess I should start a new thread, "Advice re cam/valve train/pulley DIY?"
My helper/buddy has rebuild experience back in his big block days, have to check it out!
Anybody?
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Looks pretty straight forward. I have a 6 speed and will probably not drop the whole tunnel, just slide the diff off of the back while tilted down.
Take Care,
Alan
Since the torque tube is firmly bolted to the engine, you really can't just unbolt the back of the suspension and let the assembly hang down. Well... maybe you could if you loosened the engine mounts.
I really thought about it, and then looked hard for an alternate method that what was shown in the service manual. But couldn't come up with a workable work-around. If you figure it out, post it. Many would like an easier method to swap carriers
[Modified by Mike Mercury, 12:01 PM 3/1/2002]
I'd suggest thoroughly researching that idea of loosening the motor mounts to gain more of an angle, sounds like it would increase the likelihood of damaging the composite firewall/dash for sure. That warning sticker on the torque tube showing the max amount/angle the tube can be dropped in rear before the firewall is damaged is to be taken seriously. I believe there is a warning in the manual as well. I saw a fellow looking for a used one in parts for sale, I think he said he didn't support the rear of the engine when he removed the tube. I think the manual warns about this as well. My .02.
[Modified by Stu in CA, 9:42 AM 3/1/2002]
[Modified by Mike Mercury, 1:18 PM 3/1/2002]
I made my previous comment after looking at the CF article and before I got to the bottom of your informative website, quite good. From the picture of the rear end dropped down on the transmission jack, I cannot tell whether you took the diff off from the tilted position shown or if that was an interium picture right before you removed the entire tunnel assembly.
My point is that when you get the tunnel dropped down far enough to remove it, you have it far enoungh down to slide the diff off the transmission while clearing the center luggage compartment, so why go to the trouble of removing the whole tunnel if you are not going to do TC or Clutch work. In the picture you show, it is low enough to remove the diff without taking the entire tunnel out.
Thanks,
Alan
From your replies I assume that you are going to do this soon. Which gears are you going to use? Are you going to try it all by yourself? Last, where did you get your assembly.
ahhh yes, the picture. I see where you are coming from now. My pic may be misleading; the front of the torque tube has been unbolted from and pulled off of the engine. You just can't see it in the pic.

The position of the tranny jack makes the transaxle unballanced; being rear heavy. When I slid the torque tube off the engine crankshaft, it went up... resting against the top of the tunnel; instead of falling down... due to the leverage of the rear heavy condition pivoting on the trans jack. (kinda like a teeter totter with a heavy kid on the other side :) ) As I lowered the now loosened transaxle; the front of the torque tube remained up against the top of the tunnel because of the unballanced condition.
From the lowered position in the pic, I was able to do the carrier swap since I now had the clearance necessary behind the carrier.
when you get the transaxle/torque tube assembly completely unbolted and pulled off the engine, you can now lower it far enoungh down to slide the diff off the off the transmission.
[Modified by Mike Mercury, 11:46 AM 3/2/2002]
It did look a little lower than possible when bolted up. I will have to take a close look when I get into it, definitely do not want to damage the firewall, but do not want to do more work than necessary. I will be working off a lift so might have it a little easier supporting and manipulating the tunnel/tube tranny diff assembly. We'll see.
Thankls for all of the input and congratulations on a good job. I love to see DIY success stories.
Take Care,
Alan











