hey guys, I've got my own ideas of what I could do without dropping thousands of dollars. I want to boost my HP, already got borla exhaust and K&N. Thinking MFS and or throttle body... anyone have any suggestions for me or question I can answer so you can better answer my question... thanks guys.

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I would absolutely NOT mess with the MAF--leave it alone--screen and all--A stock MAF is good for 500 HP and unless you have a tuner you can't correct the wacko fuel trims from changing MAF's or ends.
A ported T-body is good for only about 5 HP--but it does help with throttle response--Shaner seems to be the best choice--(S-2 performance)
Next installing a LS6 intake is a good solid 10-15 HP---Your 99 has the old LS1 intake --Costs about $350-400--
The only other thing i would suggest is getting a full tune---Do not buy a handheld tuner--It's a waste--if you have an A4--you can make your car almost 1/2 second quicker in the 1/4 just with trans tuning alone-If you get a tune--make sure in addition to the dyno pulls they do some street driveabilty tuning as well--costs from $300-450
Next if you don't have to worry about emmisions testing-- a set of LT headers would net you another 15-20 HP---those costs can vary-especially if you need them installed--but be prepared to spend anywhere from $700-1200 installed--
Good luck !!!

 

Agreed, MAF is not needed with your mods and will not net any gains. The TB will also not net you any HP gains, just throttle response. You can find an LS6 intake on auction sites for much cheaper than $300. I saw one the other day for $150 FYI. Just shop around. The hand held tuner is a waste of money, the car will end up needing a true tune once the major power adders are added. The Long Tube Headers are definitely a must have. The emmisiions concerns will go away with a good tune. I just passed NJ inspection with KOOKS LT's and off road x-pipe, and no cats.

 

HEADERS! Get your self a nice set of Long Tube headers. I am not sure what the guy above was saying 1200 installed, the good sets of headers with x-pipe will run you $1800 alone, figure in 5 hours of labor as well. So $2000 at least. You will feel the difference, as your gains should be around 30hp. In my opinion it is worth it just for the sound. Check out LG Motorsports, they have a real nice Street Series Headers for the C5, can be bought with cats for around $1200!

 

Depends on a definition of "good" I guess. I bought a set of the "ebay headers" for my wife's A4 car for $300, and along with a few minor bolt on mods, made approx 360rwhp on a hot summer day.
Unless you are running a perfect cat back system, and every thing else on the car is tweaked perfectly to take advantage, I just don't see blowing so much money on expensive headers. They MIGHT make a couple more horses, but with the money you save you can get things like intakes, port your TB, 1.8 rockers etc, and make much more hp for the same $$
Just my .02

 

I just pulled my oversize 100MM MAF, and now I am running a 2-Bar MAP and a Speed-Density Tune!

 

The cheap stuff is exactly that...cheap. In most cases the better quality stuff that is going to be dependable and last a long time, won't crack, break and fail like the cheaper stuff. I had a very well known but cost effective x-pipe on my car before the KOOKS and the thing cracked 1 year after install. I sent it back due to warranty, the company replaced it and the second one lasted just under two years before it cracked twice. The KOOKS has been on the car now for three years and the car is raced and driven a lot more and "knock on wood" she is still holding strong. I also had a twin filter intake (dual K&N cone)on the car before buying a "Blackwing" and the car made a noticable difference in power after the switch to the Blackwing. My brother put B&B Bullets on his coupe four years after I put Borla Stingers on my car and he has had to weld the hangers back in place 5 times since the install. The Borla's are still holding strong with no problems....again I knock on wood.

My point is the better quality the product the more testing and performance engineering invloved in the creation. Spend a few more dollars to get better quality parts. You only want to buy things once, you want as much power as possible... and you don't want to always have to pull the welder out for repairs.

 

My point about the headers was to beware of the "corvette tax"
The basically same headers for an "F" body car might be $400 but as soon as you say Corvette--they are $800--I think it's a total waste to spend $1800 or $2000 on hdrs for a Corvette-- what are they made out of GOLD ??-As a retired Pro drag racer-we would buy things using our own judgement on things like materials and workmanship-- comapring brands and prices-
As a side note--I bought a set of Ebay hdrs for my Corvette 4 years ago for $300--other than some minor bung location moves at 1st -they are still perfect--
Thick flanges-superior SS welding and quality stainless tubing--AND they made me over 25 RWHP on the Dyno-- Remember this is 2009--the economy ??--Companies are going out of business everyday for not bringing value to their customers-

 

Yep; My wife's are over 3 years old and look perfect (just a little duller than when they were new, but still brighter than my KOOKs)

I have a set of $79 Headmans that have been on my truck for almost 8 years and they havn't leaked, cracked or fallen off yet.

 

"The only other thing i would suggest is getting a full tune---Do not buy a handheld tuner--It's a waste--if you have an A4--you can make your car almost 1/2 second quicker in the 1/4 just with trans tuning alone-If you get a tune--make sure in addition to the dyno pulls they do some street driveabilty tuning as well--costs from $300-450"

Is that true? What is wrong with the original trans tune that would give a 1/2 second reduction in the quarter?

 

Several things---1st the TQ management system deletes up to 30% of your torque at WOT shifts--this makes your engine have to regain that momentum everythime it shifts---this is HUGE !!!!!
2. the Abuse mgmt. system will do the same--It will remove a % of your torque at anytime it thinks there is an overstress on your drivetrian
3. The commanded shift times ( time it take the trans to finish a shift)
at WOT are programmed around .500 of a second (1/2 second)--these can be safely quickened up to .200 of a second--On paper- this alone will shorten the 1/4 mile shifting .600 of a second !! (usually on a 1/4 mile you only have 2 shifts, 1-2 and 2-3
4.The "shift at WOT RPM" if moved up can gain ET's as well--These tables are in the trans file-
5. Another trans shifting aid ( especially with a modded hds/cam type car) is to subtract from the "force motor current table"--When adding HP it becomes harder for the trans to shift at WOT--This table will aid in quick crisp shifts at WOT --many modded cars will have the problem of the trans not shifting at WOT and hitting the rev limiter--tweaking this table will eliminate this usually
6. Adding a small amount of line pressure gives you a little more punch off the line--but don't go crazy as too much will blow seals out--i never go over 6-8 % increase

A handheld tuner does NOT address any of these table changes properly or not at all--

 

A tune or a tune with headers also will help greatly. Just leaning out the overly rich factory fuel trims to achieve a better AFR will increase H.P. and net a little better fuel economy as well. Greatest gains for the money. These mods will also enhance other asssociated mods down the road as well, i.e: heads, cam, intake manifold.

 

It always comes down to one simple question: "How much do you want to spend?"

Tell us that, and we'll tell you what is possible.

 

Nitrous, you can get 50-150 HP at the wheels for $600

 

The nitrous is probably youre cheapest solution. And I would like to know if you can actually use any header made for an F-Body on a C5 Corvette? Thanks.

 

If its an A4 I would go with 3000 stall and 342 gear and a tune. Makes a world of difference.

 

I've got a 99 with ported ls1 heads, ported tb and ls6 intake, .566 lift comp cam, kooks long tubes with xpipe and mid pipe, magnaflow axle backs. Dynoed at 414 rwhp. Its a 6 sp with MGW short throw shifter. I like it.

 

hey guys... thanks for all the input (and huge thanks to corvettes of dallas). I put AR longtube headers and xpipe on the car, lowered it, and got it tuned, already had B&B triflo on the car (kept them on). RWHP was @ 317 on an auto tranny after tune and headers. Putting the Vararam on the car next week. Looking at new intake manifold etc... any suggestions? The guys at COD said just get an LS6 intake and port and polish the TB, does this sound like a good mod? I see 99vet did this and it might seem like we're repeating ourselves but should I do this or go with an aftermarket like the Typhoon LS6 with a 96mm inlet etc? or what... thanks again guys...

 

also, money isn't a HUGE issue but I don't want to drop thousands on minimal gains, this is a daily driver, well, it and my truck. I don't plan on ever getting this thing in the 600RWHP range. just FYI. thanks,

 

TBLU- i just reread your comments, LS6 and ported TB on the way. do you suggest any brand or just a GM LS6 intake? I saw S-2 TB. thx.