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Your statement isn't true, cast iron can warp under normal conditions if the heat/cool cycle happens quickly...like here in the south where the rotors can get very hot and cooled quickly by an afternoon shower.
That article is based on personal experiences with race braking systems that are typically overhauled nearly every race and have no bearing what so ever on real world systems.I find some of his "conclusions very" highly subject anyway.I have seen many water warped rotors so bad you can actually see the run out on them when they are put on the lathe,true em up and they are good to go as long as there is a enough material to work with.Huge difference between working everyday with common brakes than with a very small amout of specialty "race" brakes.
Hey guys,
I'm not trying to steal the thread, or stop your debate about "wrapped" rotors - but I think the original question was about Calipers....
In light of the Original poster's question, I also have a similar question. My FRONT brakes are Completely shot...Metal-to-Metal contact & loud grinding noise. Recently, I checked all 4 rotors by running my fingers on surface. All looked good on the outside. When I inspected the inside of rotors....Wowwww... the Front Driver's side rotor has grooves like Grand Canyon on the inside . It is totally shot.
When I drove the car, I noticed it doesn't want to move when shifted in "R", and when gas is pushed it moves, but something is holding it back badly. Similar thing happens when shifted in "D". It won't move until I hit the gas a little more than usual. I've stopped driving it now!
Question - Is my caliper bad? Or can it be lubed/oiled and fixed? I bought both new rotors & pads for Front. They're expensive for me, and I don't want to ruin them. I'd prefer fixing the caliper if possible (under tight budget here).... Plz let me know my options. Would turly appreciate your help.
Did you clean and lubricate the caliper pins prior to re-assembly to ensure freedom of movement between both sides?
I'm assuming that if you replaced the rotors, you measured the rotor thickness at several locations and found them to be uneven.
For the record, cast iron rotors do not typically warp. Cast iron usually cracks when exposed to extreme heat cycles.
When i slow down from 20-5, its like ... pulse ... pulse ... pulse ...
Almost like I'm driving over little bumps 2 feet apart from each other.
After research, I picked up new rotors. Pads looked low, so I grabbed some new HPS pads.
I threw the new pads and rotors on and 90% of the pulse is gone.
I went to toss the old pads and noticed that the left pads were worn slightly unevenly. The bottom was worn just a fraction more than the top.
Is this the cause of my problem? Is this just some anomaly because the pads were so low?
ps- The calipers slide freely.
Originally Posted by ipuig
Did you clean and lubricate the caliper pins prior to re-assembly to ensure freedom of movement between both sides?
I'm assuming that if you replaced the rotors, you measured the rotor thickness at several locations and found them to be uneven.
For the record, cast iron rotors do not typically warp. Cast iron usually cracks when exposed to extreme heat cycles.
Stuck caliper pins can lead to brake system pulsation, uneven pad wear and or pad taper, but I'm sure that a smart individual such as yourself already knew this.
Hey guys,
I'm not trying to steal the thread, or stop your debate about "wrapped" rotors - but I think the original question was about Calipers....
In light of the Original poster's question, I also have a similar question. My FRONT brakes are Completely shot...Metal-to-Metal contact & loud grinding noise. Recently, I checked all 4 rotors by running my fingers on surface. All looked good on the outside. When I inspected the inside of rotors....Wowwww... the Front Driver's side rotor has grooves like Grand Canyon on the inside . It is totally shot.
When I drove the car, I noticed it doesn't want to move when shifted in "R", and when gas is pushed it moves, but something is holding it back badly. Similar thing happens when shifted in "D". It won't move until I hit the gas a little more than usual. I've stopped driving it now!
Question - Is my caliper bad? Or can it be lubed/oiled and fixed? I bought both new rotors & pads for Front. They're expensive for me, and I don't want to ruin them. I'd prefer fixing the caliper if possible (under tight budget here).... Plz let me know my options. Would turly appreciate your help.
Thanks..
Its great we have such smart ppl here... can anyone help me with the 'mentioned' issue I have. I have to fix the brakes asap... and would like some advice on calipers...
Stuck caliper pins can lead to brake system pulsation, uneven pad wear and or pad taper, but I'm sure that a smart individual such as yourself already knew this.
I'm also smart enough to know that RARELY happens
the calpers flex like crazy on C5's
take a micrometer and measure with and without pedal pressure
you will be surprised
Its great we have such smart ppl here... can anyone help me with the 'mentioned' issue I have. I have to fix the brakes asap... and would like some advice on calipers...
Thanks
You have to remove the calipers and visually inspect them to determine if they were damaged, it's unlikely but possible. Have you ever done a disc brake job? If not, this would be a good time to either purchase a service manual or have it done by a professional.
Good idea not driving it, your description indicates that you've worn your pads down to the metal backing plates.