Well the headers arn't throwing the codes but I am getting codes.

I installed long tube headers in my 00FRC, based on info from this forum I bought new rear O2 sensors (Densmon) or some name like that.
I bought adaptors so I could connect the rear to the front connectors.
I went to a local tuner who palyed with the fuel curves and picked up about 18 HP from the first run to the 4th.

I did an HPDE event at Sebring after that and all went well, but I noticed late in the day the car seemed to loose power. Between 4,000 and 6,500 it climed very slowly almost like I had a plug misfiring.

When I got home I checked my codes and found several from differnet data collection points, BCM, TCI, RFA, but the PCM codes were.
PO 135 Heated Ox sensor (H02S) Heater circut Bank 1 Sensor 1
PO 140 Heated Ox sensor (H02s) Heater Circut Bank 1 sensor 2
PO 155 Heater Ox sensor (H02s) Heater circut Bank 2 sensor 1
PO 160 Heated Ox sensor (HO2s) circut insufficent activity bank 2 sensor 2

My tuner said the car went into open loop that why I lost power. He suggusted I check the fuse. I did and it is good.
My tuner said he perfers to keep the front o2 sensors in the front and get wire extenders to make the connection.

Any suggustions? I run at Daytona in two weeks and am running out of time.

 

I hope I'm reading this wrong, but it sounds like you have the rear O2's installed, and connected to the front O2 connectors via the adapters.....

 

You are reading it correctly. I bought new rear position o2sensors (long wires with square plug) and installed them in the front position. Use adaptors to connect the square plug to the flat plug. The right sensor goes to the right side plug and left to left. And pluged the rear bungs.
I was lead to believe the rear units operated better in a cooler location, and since the new front location is further back than stock and hence a cooler location. So that is the reason the rear sensors work better in the front.

Did I read the forum advice incorrectly?

I did not mention I am running without cats.

 

No, that's how LG suggests you do it. Since their forward bung is farther away from the ports, you put the rear type of sensor in them because they have a stronger heating element. Hence if you have cats and don't want to program out the rear sensors, you'll end up with 4 rear type sensors to keep from throwing codes.

Then you should program out the rear sensors and plug the bungs. The only purpose of the rear sensors is to tell you if your cats are working.

As for what's causing your codes, first thing I'd do is slide under there and make sure you didn't bake any wiring. You've got to be real careful how you route things!

 

Nope, I did read it incorrectly....sounds like you've got them installed right.

 

I jacked it up this afternoon plan to go under in the AM. I am thinking I may have cooked the wires since when the car was tuned it was in closed loop or open I forget which one you want to be it to be running correctly.

Ok, I went under and checked the wires from the o2 sensor to the terminal block and all seems well. I cleared the codes and ran the engine till it warmed up. It threw the same codes. Cleared the codes and ran it again this time after a while I only got the code for the right side forward o2 sensor.

 

Would this be the thing to do for other headers like Kooks where the bung is closer to the engine than the LG's?

 

FWIW I have Melrose headers with R/T high flow cats and Xpipe. I run all 4 O2's in the stock locations and have the rears tuned out. Never have thrown a code.

 

Check to make sure all the plugs are tight. did you use O2 simulators for the disconnected rears? I ran them for a while and they seemed to work. as for the codes from the front sensors?? I don't know. I have been running this set up with LT headers since they came out. I have one of the first sets of LG long tubes. I am also running the high flow cats and no rear sensors. Sometimes she would throw a no activity code on the rears, but only very rarely, I would just go and reset them. Finally I programmed them out of the system.

Never heard of that brand sensor, I have the Bosh. You also should check your tune to make sure you did not go too lean. the heater circuit code just means that you have an open heater circuit somewhere, when it is both sensors?? check the fuses again! time to break out a meter!