Hi guys couple questions new to the LS1 motor so I installed a intake manifold and was looking at the MAFS and noticed like 3 bars on the left half and only 2 on the right half of the MAFS. Is this normal?

I looked in my service manual volume 3 on page 6-945 but they don't show a detailed picture of the inside of the MAFS. Also bought some CRC mafs cleaner was going to clean it but the GM service manual says do not use any type of cleaner. Now I do not know if I should use the cleaner. Is ok to clean the MAFS with the CRC MAFS cleaner?

TIA
Happy TG

 

That is the way it should look.

 

I use same cleaner every 3000 or so and have no issues yet ?

 

Thanks guys: and looks like I am good to go with the CRC.

 

One side of the divider has one thermistor supported by the two "bars" and the other side has two thermistors. That picture looks clean.
Be sure to clean the throttle blade area of the throttle body when you do you regular service. I like to stick the plastic handle end of a screwdriver inside the blade to hold it open while i clean just behind the blade/body area.

HTH

 

While the topic is up can someone tell how the thing works? Does it compare one side with the other and get airflow? I does still work when the housing is completely bored out so it seems not to need the two sides separate completely??

Anyone know?

 

Here is a good article on MAFS.

In Last paragraph below, I have been debating whether to pull the screen out as I posted in my LS6 intake manifold install thread but can't decide yet if I should do to some of the post here?. I feel it is a restriction imo I go to the K&N and open the AB but then bottle neck or restrict the air flow to a degree with the screen in place in the MAFS. Anyone remove thier MAFS screen here and (or) have thoughts or advice on this they could share?



Mass Flow
By contrast, Mass Air Flow (MAF) systems use a sensor mounted in front of the throttle body that directly measures the amount of air inducted into the engine. The most common type of mass-flow sensor is the hot wire design: Air flows past a heated wire that’s part of a circuit that measures electrical current. Current flowing through the wire heats it to a temperature that is always held above the inlet air temperature by a fixed amount. Air flowing across the wire draws away some of the heat, so an increase in current flow is required to maintain its fixed temperature. The amount of current needed to heat the wire is proportional to the mass of air flowing across the wire. The mass-air meter also includes a temperature sensor that provides a correction for intake air temperature so the output signal is not affected by it.
The MAF sensor’s circuitry converts the current reading into a voltage signal for the computer, which in turn equates the voltage value to mass flow. Typical MAF systems also use additional sensors similar to those found in Speed Density systems. Once the electronic control module (ECM) knows the amount of air entering the engine, it looks at these other sensors to determine the engine’s current state of operation (idle, acceleration, cruise, deceleration, operating temperature, and so on), then refers to an electronic map to find the appropriate air/fuel ratio and select the fuel-injector pulse width required to match the input signals.
GM used MAF sensors on the turbo Buick V-6 Grand National, ’85-’89 TPI, ’94-’98 LT1, ’96 LT4, and all LS1 engines. Ford has used MAF metering on ’88 California 5.0L engines and all ’89-and-later V-8 engines.


MAF systems are much more flexible in their ability to compensate for engine changes since they actually measure airflow instead of computing it based on preprogrammed assumptions. They are self-compensating for most reasonable upgrades, as well as extremely accurate under low-speed, part-throttle operation. On the other hand, the MAF meter, mounted as it is ahead of the throttle-body, can become an airflow restriction on high-horsepower engines. On nonstock engine retrofits or EFI conversions on engines never produced with fuel injection, it may be hard to package an MAF meter within the confines of the engine bay and available intake manifolding.


GM ’94-and-up MAF units aren’t a major restriction through 400 hp, but Morgan Motorsports sees gains even on stockers by going to a larger meter ID. Options include removing the GM unit’s screen and dividing fin, then porting it out, or installing a larger aftermarket unit.

 

Thanks for the advice, my TB surprisingly wasn't that dirty as I thought it would of been just a little bit around the blade edge and just a little around TB housing the thickness size wise of the TB blade in close position. Compared to other TB's I have seen this one wasn't bad.

PS
I like hearing any and all tips or suggestions from you guys as I am leaning about this LS1 motor

 

Just some more thoughts on the mafs screen.

On the screen removal from the MAFS after some more in depth research I see a least on this forum its seems its a split on which way to go. I have read post of some guys who removed it and said they couldn't feel no gain. Well of course not I don't believe anyone one can feel small hp increases like 2, 3, or 4 rwhp difference but hey if 2 or 3rwhp are there on a descreen I want it. A little here a little there (HP) and these little increases start to add up. I think there is enough restriction with that screen on the small 78 mm maf and removing it could help with a little Hp imo. I also read some say you have to retune hard for me to believe because I would think since that is what the MAFS is there for little changes in airflow and which send the signal to adjust the afr for a little more air flow or little less, now going to a larger 85mm mafs I could see a tune being needed more but from the stock mafs by just removing the screen I wouldn't think but I am not a tuner.

From being undecided previously I am now leaning toward removing it I do know some good tuners from previous cars I could talk to see what they say or better yet I think I will also call ECS since I am running their 93 tune and get their opinion since my current research seems so split on the mafs screen.


Found this on lS1lT1 removal of the mafs screen

De-screening the MAF sensor.

****WARNING!!!?.THE MAF IS EXTREMELY SENSITIVE BE CAREFUL WHEN HANDLING IT! NEVER TOUCH THE WIRES EITHER! *****


Start by removing the MAF from the car and finding a clean area to work. There?s many ways to remove the screen, but probably the safest way is to use a Torx head socket and unbolt the 2 metal halves from the actual sensor. This will prevent you from accidentally damaging the wires. Set the sensor aside where it won?t get damaged.

Some people have had some negative effects from removing the MAF screen, so I would suggest trying not to damage it while removing it. There is a small snap ring that can be removed with a pick or small screwdriver, and the screen will come out, in one piece. I?d do this just incase you need to reinstall it.

If you don?t care about the screen. Grab a screwdriver and go wild.

 

Just found some more info researching on the screen I'd thought I share with links below looks like the screen is restrictive and with out a screen air flow is improved per GM. The screen was needed as a air straighter on other GM autos & trucks when used with a curved intake tube which the Corvette isn't (its straight) but was carried over to the Corvette anyway but isn't needed on the Corvette. So I will be removing my screen but will check with ECS to make sure no tuning will be needed by removing the screen which I really do not think it will a least I hope not.