Removing power steering pump pulley?
Being plastic, will the pulley most likely break off if I try to remove it?
The reason I'm asking, is because instead of spending $30 on a puller, I can just buy a new pulley and break the old one off with a hammer.
So... should I buy a puller or a new pulley?
Breaking it without other damage shouldn't be too hard since it's on the ground where I can put a hammer/chisel at any point.
I guess I've already made up my mind...
Thanks though.

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You can smash the plastic off with a hammer, but you will still need a puller to get the hub off the pump shaft.
You'll figure this out soon enough...


I already had an aluminum pulley ready to replace it. So I went about it the easiest way possible.
If spending $100+ on a factory GM tool to salvage a $15 part I'll never use again is the smart thing to do, then I'm glad I did it wrong.
Last edited by Y2Kvert4me; Dec 3, 2009 at 05:21 PM.
Any tips for installing the replacement?
I guess just sand the shaft a bit with fine sandpaper and maybe use the wood end of a hammer against the center of the new pulley, then hit the hammer gently with another hammer?
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Any tips for installing the replacement?
I guess just sand the shaft a bit with fine sandpaper and maybe use the wood end of a hammer against the center of the new pulley, then hit the hammer gently with another hammer?
I have the 5 spoke aluminum Synister pulley (no longer made), and drawing it on proved to be a VERY tight press fit. I ended up heating the pulley in the oven to about 250° ( or whatever the lowest setting is) to get it to go on.
I cannot comment on that Zip pulley, but if it seems to fit TOO tightly like mine did (to the point you're afraid of stripping out the tool's threads), then heat the pulley up a little before trying to install it, it makes a world of difference.
I already had an aluminum pulley ready to replace it. So I went about it the easiest way possible.
If spending $100+ on a factory GM tool to salvage a $15 part I'll never use again is the smart thing to do, then I'm glad I did it wrong.

Tom is on point for this topic, nice collar you will need to pull to finish the job
that pump is an a$$ pain to swap, I've only done this a few times while the motor/ebcm is in the car
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...+Pulley+Puller
Josh, put the beer down for this job
Last edited by SteveDoten; Dec 4, 2009 at 10:26 AM.
I already had an aluminum pulley ready to replace it. So I went about it the easiest way possible.
If spending $100+ on a factory GM tool to salvage a $15 part I'll never use again is the smart thing to do, then I'm glad I did it wrong.

You can use a puller for many other jobs so GO BUY SOME TOOLS other than a HAMMER
I went ahead and broke the pulley with a hammer since all I wanted was to get at the bolts so I could seperate the pump from the bracket.
It will take time to polish, and the entire engine isn't going back together for another few months... I'll buy the billet pulley and the installer when I'm ready.
Thanks again everyone.

It really is easy

Since you couldn't answer the very simple question I asked above, we can assume you've never actually done the job.
If/when you do, I truly hope you follow the service manual procedure to the letter. Which means disconnecting all brake lines and removing the EBCM/BPMV unit to gain access. As is typical of the service manual, that is completely unnecessary to accomplishing the task, but if it makes you sleep better to do it that way, have at it!

If you'd like another example of needless service manual procedure, look up the instructions for changing the left hood latch. When you get the wipers and cowl removed, and find it gained you absolutely zero additional access to the latch, you'll wonder why you just did all that.
My point? The service manual is a nice reference to have, but is certainly not the only possible way to tackle a job. There are often much easier ways.
And there are also better pulley options out there too so that you'll never have to deal with that silly plastic pulley again.


Since you couldn't answer the very simple question I asked above, we can assume you've never actually done the job.
If/when you do, I truly hope you follow the service manual procedure to the letter. Which means disconnecting all brake lines and removing the EBCM/BPMV unit to gain access. As is typical of the service manual, that is completely unnecessary to accomplishing the task, but if it makes you sleep better to do it that way, have at it!

If you'd like another example of needless service manual procedure, look up the instructions for changing the left hood latch. When you get the wipers and cowl removed, and find it gained you absolutely zero additional access to the latch, you'll wonder why you just did all that.
My point? The service manual is a nice reference to have, but is certainly not the only possible way to tackle a job. There are often much easier ways.
And there are also better pulley options out there too so that you'll never have to deal with that silly plastic pulley again.



I just moved the ECBM a bit and left it connected.
As far as the manual(s) go , they are for reference and do not substitute for common sense.

GM has many , many BS things in them .
They are written by Tech writers , not mechanics.











