Opinion's on this combination
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,536
Likes: 15
Opinion's on this combination
Hello, I've been driving my 04Z all summer. Its pretty new to me, but its time for some upgrades. I've always had fast cars and I'm impressed with the stock C5Z but like I said, time to drop some coin. Its and bone stock 25k C5Z.
The combo I'm leaning towards is stock short block with my 243 heads being CNC'd and milled to 60-62cc with 921 springs and hardend pushrods. TSP torquer v2 camshaft (spec=232/234 .595/.598 LS=112). Port matched Fast 90 with a 90mm TB. Varraram, pulley, 160T-stat, TSP headers with X-pipe(no cats). And to top it off a 150 wet shot(plate). The gearing I'm not sure on, 3.90 or 4.10"s. O' and the clutch I'm leaning towards a Mcleod RXT.
My goal is to be able to hang with the $75,000+(street cars) running around. Do u think 485 N/A RWHP is close ? Plus the wet shot, this should keep me in the mix of fast street ****. I was hoping with a great tune to put down 500RWHP N/A plus the 150 shot. I think I'm going to try the frost dual board/dual tune factory ECU.
I'm really lookin for all your opinions on the set up and its potential. Gearing, RWHP, Clutch, and how fast it should be???
The combo I'm leaning towards is stock short block with my 243 heads being CNC'd and milled to 60-62cc with 921 springs and hardend pushrods. TSP torquer v2 camshaft (spec=232/234 .595/.598 LS=112). Port matched Fast 90 with a 90mm TB. Varraram, pulley, 160T-stat, TSP headers with X-pipe(no cats). And to top it off a 150 wet shot(plate). The gearing I'm not sure on, 3.90 or 4.10"s. O' and the clutch I'm leaning towards a Mcleod RXT.
My goal is to be able to hang with the $75,000+(street cars) running around. Do u think 485 N/A RWHP is close ? Plus the wet shot, this should keep me in the mix of fast street ****. I was hoping with a great tune to put down 500RWHP N/A plus the 150 shot. I think I'm going to try the frost dual board/dual tune factory ECU.
I'm really lookin for all your opinions on the set up and its potential. Gearing, RWHP, Clutch, and how fast it should be???
Racer
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 415
Likes: 1
From: Ft. Wayne In
You will likely need better heads, and a more aggressive cam grind to get close to 485rwhp na, or a very optimistic dyno.
I run a 150 dry shot, 315wide "R" compound tires and the car is traction limited all the way through second on the street with a 3.42 gear. I really only use the spray at the strip.
I've had good luck, so far with a Mcleod street twin.
I run a 150 dry shot, 315wide "R" compound tires and the car is traction limited all the way through second on the street with a 3.42 gear. I really only use the spray at the strip.
I've had good luck, so far with a Mcleod street twin.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,536
Likes: 15
Awsome, thats the type of feed back I'm looking for. Lets hear some more.
About the heads, I just can't see dropping 2,300$ on Trick Flows or AFR's to pick up 35RWHP over the CNC'd 243's. By the way, if I remember right SDPC has a CNC program for the 243's for only 500$. So If I do the math right 1,800$ for 35RWHP. With me spraying it I just don't think I'll see a 1,800$ differance. I could be wrong, thats where your opinions come in!!!
About the heads, I just can't see dropping 2,300$ on Trick Flows or AFR's to pick up 35RWHP over the CNC'd 243's. By the way, if I remember right SDPC has a CNC program for the 243's for only 500$. So If I do the math right 1,800$ for 35RWHP. With me spraying it I just don't think I'll see a 1,800$ differance. I could be wrong, thats where your opinions come in!!!
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,536
Likes: 15
And about the blower, I'd love to have it FI. But I've added it up several times and for about 5 G's I can be makin around 600RWHP, on spray. And to do the blower right I'd be double that.
But thats exactly what I'm lookin for, great options and opinions for people who have done the mods and know the cost.
But thats exactly what I'm lookin for, great options and opinions for people who have done the mods and know the cost.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,266
Likes: 8
From: Indian Rocks Beach FL
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
I'm just not a nitrous fan but maybe that's just me. You can get some great, and I mean really great, deals on centrifugal blowers. For about 6K installed you can hit the low 500 rwhp numbers without risking any damage. It's there all the time, never needs to be refilled, comes on much more gradual and sounds great. Add heads and cam to the package and you can build some really big numbers. A&A makes a great kit. Four of my friends have them. The install is really clean and the cars drive around town like stock until you get on them.
Banned Scam/Spammer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 15,685
Likes: 1,330
From: Machineguns, because I don’t compromise
Buy a used blower kit complete in the sale section for $3800.
Longtube headers.
Clutch
Tune
What good is 600hp with no traction?
Been there, done that (twin turbo)
This time around 500rwhp will work just fine, and it's there all the time with no bottle to refill.
Longtube headers.
Clutch
Tune
What good is 600hp with no traction?
Been there, done that (twin turbo)
This time around 500rwhp will work just fine, and it's there all the time with no bottle to refill.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 310
Likes: 1
From: St.Louis Missouri
I would say you would be at around 450rwhp with the heads and cam you picked out.I have alittle smaller cam but better heads and made 443rwhp.Even if you do some good heads I think you'll need a cam in the 24X/24X range to make what you want.
Last edited by bobbss; Dec 4, 2009 at 10:22 AM.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 931
Likes: 35
From: Rowlett, Texas
You might reconsider going to 3.90 gears. The Z06 has a wider ratio tranny with a 2.96 first gear. You'd need pure drag slicks and a prepared track to even use 1st gear. The LS1 C5 uses a closer ratio tranny with 2.66 first gear, so going to a 3.90 rear is a good mod, making it just about equivalent to the Z tranny in the first 3 gears.
Actualy, for most rolling-start acceleration and road-race tracks, the std LS1 tranny is better (durability aside) since it drops fewer RPM's between shifts.
DG
Actualy, for most rolling-start acceleration and road-race tracks, the std LS1 tranny is better (durability aside) since it drops fewer RPM's between shifts.
DG
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,121
Likes: 3
From: Shreveport/Bossier Louisiana
St. Jude Donor '08
Im gonna give my opinion because I have done the nice heads, cam, and spray route before and now Im in the FI family.
If I were to do it all over again, I would have skipped the nitrous route and saved up the money and went FI the first time around. Granted, I do have a good bit of money in my turbo system, but the blower kits that can be found in the FS section and specials run by the companies like A&A and ECS make it almost a no brainer.
Go FI, you WILL NOT regret it
If I were to do it all over again, I would have skipped the nitrous route and saved up the money and went FI the first time around. Granted, I do have a good bit of money in my turbo system, but the blower kits that can be found in the FS section and specials run by the companies like A&A and ECS make it almost a no brainer.
Go FI, you WILL NOT regret it
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
HTH