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For street cars that don't use drag radials, just about every person I've talked to that has a car that gets over 400 rwhp has trouble getting the power to the ground without insanely wide/sticky tires. At some point it's a little annoying not being able to just punch it because you're just going to break loose or the traction control will kick in.
the question: how much power can you realistically get to the ground on a consistent basis without having to worry about traction issues when you punch it at lower speeds?
My car made 499 rwhp and 472tq and I had some BFG street tires... from a stop it would spin through first and if I easy shifted second it would halfway hook but if I shifted it hard I would blow them off until 3rd. If I had some Nitto 555r's on it I could prolly hook in the bottom of second.
the question: how much power can you realistically get to the ground on a consistent basis without having to worry about traction issues when you punch it at lower speeds?
It's highly dependent on the tire, temperature, and road surface. I have one favorite section of fairly new concrete road which hooks like nothing else I've encountered.
granted...there are many variables, but my engine builder said a good estimate is around 500 hp @ the wheels. I'm at 428 rwhp and I'd say he's pretty damn close. Right now with Eagle F1 (non-runflats) first gear is a joke...and hard shift to second; you better make sure you're pointing straight. Feathering the throttle I can get it to come around and stick, but still...
I'm sure that some expensive street tires like the PS2's would hook up better, but when you get close to 500 rwhp; even those would be tested for grip.
Funny, I was just wondering this very same thing. Mine is all stock A4 and if I put it in 1st, you have to be pretty careful. I guess that's why it stays in 2nd at a stop when driving in "D".
Seems like significantly increasing HP just brings 2nd gear into the same slippery category as 1st on a stock car. I think the purpose built cars for drag racing or HPE etc. are great but alot of folks probably build up thier cars for street and then have drivability issues until they learn how to control all that power.
Then the downward slide of buying parts to help hook the power.
At risk of sounding negative, I'd just like to say...it's pretty cool to have problems like this, Corvettes are the best!!
Funny, I was just wondering this very same thing. Mine is all stock A4 and if I put it in 1st, you have to be pretty careful. I guess that's why it stays in 2nd at a stop when driving in "D".
I didn't know that. I usually drive with the TC off in my 97 for fun I will usually take off in 1st when i want to play then shift to drive to cruise.....of course that probably helps explain why my transmission exploded.
I didn't know that. I usually drive with the TC off in my 97 for fun I will usually take off in 1st when i want to play then shift to drive to cruise.....of course that probably helps explain why my transmission exploded.
Yeah I was playing around and noticed that the car responds off the line the same in "D" as it does shifted into 2nd. Totally different starting in 1st. I suppose it might spend a second in first, but I really don't notice it. Maybe someone knows the technically correct answer to that.
I have PS2's in stock size. I have zero traction at full throttle until over 60mph on a hot day. Even then a downshift will break traction.
That was one nice thing about the stick axle Mustang. Aftermarket torque arm.
I have a g5x3 cam only setup in my coupe (well i put stock ls6 heads in so i guess you could call it h/c technically) probably ~400 rwhp/rwtq and i have a traction issue. i have pretty new hankook ventus v12's too.
If i hammer it in first gear rolling at approx 2000rpms it will be glued but as soon as 3500-4-4500 rpm rolls around thats it for the rear tires and going straight line forward. If i slam 2nd after that forget about it. if i roll and punch it in 2nd they hold better but still start spinning once the powerband is reached (not as bad as first of course).
I kinda like that is does that but at the same time dont want to lose a race because of it. I'm wondering if 285 nitto 555r's might help the situation a little? (no hijack intended)
Yeah I was playing around and noticed that the car responds off the line the same in "D" as it does shifted into 2nd. Totally different starting in 1st. I suppose it might spend a second in first, but I really don't notice it. Maybe someone knows the technically correct answer to that.
If you put an A4 into 2nd gear it starts in 2nd gear as it was designed that way for driving in the snow to reduce torque.
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Originally Posted by ajg1915
I would invest in some Toyo's RA1's or R888's. Very sticky tires. Hope your driveline is in good enough shape to take the power when you hook.
Good advice on the stickier tires plus, just like the real estate people always say about location, location, location, etc well, in the world of high performance/high horsepower cars it's technique, technique, technique. Those that just want to be able to stomp the fun pedal eveywhere they go and expect everything to "stick", are in for some real disappointments regardless of what kind of car it is. Proper application of power in the right amount and at the right time is key and actually requires some practice and real driving skills. Stomping a pedal is not driving.
Good advice on the stickier tires plus, just like the real estate people always say about location, location, location, etc well, in the world of high performance/high horsepower cars it's technique, technique, technique. Those that just want to be able to stomp the fun pedal eveywhere they go and expect everything to "stick", are in for some real disappointments regardless of what kind of car it is. Proper application of power in the right amount and at the right time is key and actually requires some practice and real driving skills. Stomping a pedal is not driving.
Speaking of tires- How are the new shoes on yours Robert??
My car wont hold a MT ET Street on the street. The tire is 26x10.5 on a 16" rim. I can burn thru them going into third after a burnout to heat them up with tire pressure at 15 PSI.
for trction i must stay out of boost and roll into the gears like grandma driving a 72 caddy short shifting
ful throtle/boost 1,2,3,no traction until 4th and have to really feather into it. 5th sometimes will spin the tires at spool up and make for an *** clenching experenice. i am running BFG kdw's
If you put an A4 into 2nd gear it starts in 2nd gear as it was designed that way for driving in the snow to reduce torque.
I drive corrected...And that does make way more sense. :o I knew that 2nd started in 2nd and 1st in 1st, but it seemed that in Drive it started in 2nd also.
I was wrong on that point for sure, it just doesn't spend much time in 1st and when driving normally you hardly notice the 1st or last shift, depending on what normal means to you.
In any case, 1st takes some finesse to hook with full power and not leave to much tire cash on the road.
I drive corrected...And that does make way more sense. :o I knew that 2nd started in 2nd and 1st in 1st, but it seemed that in Drive it started in 2nd also.
I was wrong on that point for sure, it just doesn't spend much time in 1st and when driving normally you hardly notice the 1st or last shift, depending on what normal means to you.
In any case, 1st takes some finesse to hook with full power and not leave to much tire cash on the road.
I have 400rwhp,i run ps2 tires , if im in running 30mph or less and stomp it ,itll kick down to 1st gear and burn the tires untill i let out of it thru 2nd gear.BUT if im running my 305 mickeys itll hook 100 percent,after 3yrs of ownership of my 1st vette , I still love this sexy little white car.
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