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new pads old rotors?

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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 10:21 AM
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Default new pads old rotors?

Im going to be replacing all of my brake pads and my front rotors. Im getting the powerslot cryo-treated slotted rotors for the front and hawk hps pads all around. Right now all of my pads are standard oem pads. I'm wondering if it would be a bad idea to put the hawk pads on my used rear oem rotors that are now using a different pad. I'm going to stick with solid rotors for the rear even if i do change them. ive read that a rotor should always use the same type of pad throughout its life. So my question is should i get new rotors for the rear or not? What kind of negative effects would be involved with keeping the old rotors which used different pads previously? I'm thinking they might not bed in correctly. thanks for your help.

-Dan
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 10:41 AM
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The only concern would be pad transfer to the rotor (i.e bedding), and this really only a real issue when going from one type of pad to a very different type of pad. If you burnish the old rotor (sandpaper), using new pads on old rotors is no issue at all...
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Gideon's_Test
The only concern would be pad transfer to the rotor (i.e bedding), and this really only a real issue when going from one type of pad to a very different type of pad. If you burnish the old rotor (sandpaper), using new pads on old rotors is no issue at all...


I replaced the OEM pads with new ceramic pads, using the original rotors, and have no issues what so ever.
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 11:30 AM
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how much do you think i need to rough up the surface? what grit of sandpaper shoud i use? should i just get the rotors turned?
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 12:54 PM
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I wouldn't have them turned (unless you have existing wapage issues), as they lose thermal mass making them more prone to warping...As far as grit, probably 150-200grit would be fine...
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 02:53 PM
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Dont turn them. I have had nothing but bad luck having the rotors turned. Seems like they always warp and begin to squeel. Just scuff up and install the new pads.
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 03:32 PM
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thanks for the responses guys.
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 07:55 PM
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you don't really even need to sand them
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 08:36 PM
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I've done many, many brake jobs and I have used the same rotors numerous times. I have never turned or sanded any rotors, and never had a problem. As long as the current brakes aren't pulsating right now you will be fine with just pads.
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 09:41 PM
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Rotors do not warp from resurfacing on a brake lathe.
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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 12:00 AM
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Ditto!
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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 01:15 AM
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Originally Posted by JerzeyJoe
I've done many, many brake jobs and I have used the same rotors numerous times. I have never turned or sanded any rotors, and never had a problem. As long as the current brakes aren't pulsating right now you will be fine with just pads.


Bill
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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by JerzeyJoe
I've done many, many brake jobs and I have used the same rotors numerous times. I have never turned or sanded any rotors, and never had a problem. As long as the current brakes aren't pulsating right now you will be fine with just pads.


Originally Posted by ipuig
Rotors do not warp from resurfacing on a brake lathe.
BUT THEY LOOSE PRECIOUS METAL THEN CAN CAN LEAD TO OVERHEATING THEM AND THEN THEY WARP
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Old Dec 17, 2009 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by BOTTOMS UP




BUT THEY LOOSE PRECIOUS METAL THEN CAN CAN LEAD TO OVERHEATING THEM AND THEN THEY WARP
Incorrect, as long as the brake rotors when resurfaced remain above the minimum allowable thickness called out in the service manual, there is no more propensity for overheating related problems than if they were not re-surfaced.
Brake rotor heating under high braking loads is one of the factors taken into consideration when calculating the minimum allowable thickness stated in the service manual.
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by ipuig
Incorrect, as long as the brake rotors when resur there is no more propensity for overheating related problems than if they were not re-surfaced.
Not true!

With less iron mass, the rotor will heat up faster and become hotter.
This can, and often does, cause the rotor to warp.
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Quicksilver Vert 01
Not true!

With less iron mass, the rotor will heat up faster and become hotter.
This can, and often does, cause the rotor to warp.
and it can't dissipate the heat
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 11:55 AM
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IMHO- If ever in doubt about the condition of existing rotors, best to replace them with new rotors meeting or exceeding oem quality specs.

I do not believe in resurfacing rotors - too many variables not the least of which would be the operator of the resurfacing equipment.
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 02:00 PM
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A lesser mass will result in a higher temperature. The brake system turns kinetic energy into heat. The same amount of heat applied to a lesser mass results in a higher average temperature for that mass.

Sure, they can design the system to withstand that heat within the design specifications, however, the hotter it is, the more opportunities for non-uniform cooling, which can locally distort the rotor surface, resulting in "warpage".
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 07:23 PM
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This is turning into another pointless discussion, time for some brake rotor training.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf
brake rotor intro.pdf (1.76 MB, 5087 views)
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Old Dec 18, 2009 | 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ipuig
this is turning into another pointless discussion, time for some brake rotor training.
I read 97 pages
which page actually addresses the "thin rotors don't warp quicker" theory ?
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