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Cam on stock A4 ?

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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 11:46 AM
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Default Cam on stock A4 ?

I finally got my 243's back from CNC and need to pick the right cam for my stock auto. (stock converter) My car is a 99 Coupe with LS1 853 heads.

My car needs to be able to idle close to normal, I just want to replace the camshaft while I'm replacing all these parts and want a little boost of power from the whole deal.

I have LS6 intake
Blackwing CAI with Power Duct
BBK 80mm TB
1.8 Crane Gold Rockers
B&B headers
Corsa Catback
160 thermostat
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 12:08 PM
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When picking a cam on an A4 keep in mind that increasing the duration moves the power band UP in the RPM tange--When doing this often your bottom end TQ and HP is actually less down below the original power curve-- a stock TQ converter stalls at around 1700-1800 RPM's You may be making less power with a bigger cam now down there and it will make it lazy out of the hole---The only way around this is to get a higher stall converter---
A good cam choice that i would pick for reliability and smooth idle as you want would be something below .230 @ 50 duration--lift is not that important but keep it under .600 with your 1.8's--Keep the LSA no less than a 114 for a smooth idle---With this cam choice you would need a mild stall converter--between 2400-3000 to take advantage of the raised HP curve- As far as overheating the trans fluid and reliability is concerned -with a stall--there are many horror stories out there for a street car--the key is to keep the converter diameter stock--The largest stall you can go on a stock diameter converter is around 3000.
When going to smalller diam. converters the lock-up assembly is so small it is usually the thing that makes them break or overheat
As an example i recently tuned a silverdo trk with a Z06 cam for a weekend warrior--ET's before were 14.80 after the Z06 cam install he went slower---15.00 !!! then they installed a 3000 stall--and ET's went to 14.10----
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 12:42 PM
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Thanks for all the info, but right now I cant change TC. I have no budget left for it. I'm already replacing the chain, oil pump, water pump, lifters, so my budget for this upgrade is over my limits. I just want a mild, but better than stock replacement for my tired stock 1999 LS1 cam. yes an small upgrade on power will be good, I'm not looking for any major power boost out of the cam.


So far I'm in between Comp

XR259HR

206/216 .515/.522 112 LSA

XR265HR

212/218 .522/.529 114 LSA
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 01:19 PM
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A stall should always be done before a cam. You could get by with a 224/224 cam with the stock stall with a good tune. The 224/224 (around 114lsa) cams make good power and still idle nice. Anything smaller and you will not be gaining much for the money. I would still suggest a stall as soon as you can.
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ILM-Express
Thanks for all the info, but right now I cant change TC. I have no budget left for it. I'm already replacing the chain, oil pump, water pump, lifters, so my budget for this upgrade is over my limits. I just want a mild, but better than stock replacement for my tired stock 1999 LS1 cam. yes an small upgrade on power will be good, I'm not looking for any major power boost out of the cam.


So far I'm in between Comp

XR259HR

206/216 .515/.522 112 LSA

XR265HR

212/218 .522/.529 114 LSA
Originally Posted by HorsePowerAddicts
A stall should always be done before a cam. You could get by with a 224/224 cam with the stock stall with a good tune. The 224/224 (around 114lsa) cams make good power and still idle nice. Anything smaller and you will not be gaining much for the money. I would still suggest a stall as soon as you can.
are you going to install the cam yourself? cause i wouldnt pay to install a small cam like those listed..just not worth it IMO
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by mickey_7106
are you going to install the cam yourself? cause i wouldnt pay to install a small cam like those listed..just not worth it IMO
Of course, when does a ASE Master-GM Certified mech pay anyone to work on their car ? maybe when I'm 70 years old. Long way to go for that.

I'm just looking for an easy 400RWHP that I can drive everyday with the stock converter
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 07:05 PM
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I have a stock stall and im running a 224/228/588 @ 114. car idles @700rpm all day, i wish i had gone with with a bigger cam , but then i had refused to change stall,NOW im going to change the stall for that ever increasing desire for more speed,,then ill probably change cams again since ill have the stall ,so when does it ever end?
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by White-C5
I have a stock stall and im running a 224/228/588 @ 114. car idles @700rpm all day, i wish i had gone with with a bigger cam , but then i had refused to change stall,NOW im going to change the stall for that ever increasing desire for more speed,,then ill probably change cams again since ill have the stall ,so when does it ever end?
How does it run ? Do you have to hold down the brake all the time now ? so it wont roll foward ?

HP ?
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Old Dec 19, 2009 | 07:37 PM
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look at my profile,yes i hold the break but its defently not lunging forward any, as for power it make 404 and 390 to the wheels , and the best run so far is 11,66 @ 119 mph, with a stall its probably capable of 11,20 or maybe 11,10
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 02:34 AM
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I have recently scheduled a H/C swap for just after New Years. I have an 03 Coupe. Bolt-ons are: VaraRam B2, AR Headers, Yank 2800 stall (12 in. dia.), and 3:42 gears. My tuner and I decided on new LS6 heads (LS6 intake was stock), a 224/230, .59x/.600 114 LSA, u/d pully. I have full confidence in my tuner and he is doing the build. I'm just hoping that my stall is big enough.

What say you tblu92?

I'm hoping the hp/tq are some where near the 400 range.

Last edited by Bluefire; Dec 20, 2009 at 02:38 AM.
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 07:10 AM
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I suggest you also install a split timing chain cover. That way, you can swap the cam in the future without pulling the steering rack!
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 05:22 PM
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I have a mild cam with some milled 243's that we worked the imperfections out of and an LS6 intake. Very similar to your projected setup. See my profile for mods.

I have to step on the brake A LITTLE harder than I used to, but it's not bad at all, very drivable. No stall. 409RWHP.
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 05:42 PM
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Baby cams get a bad rap because they don't match the big guns above 5000 RPM. But, for those of us who don't race, and spend most of our time on the street, mid-range torque is where the real fun is.
The 212/218 will kill the 224/228 in the midrange, but loses out above 5400 RPM. Just depends on what you want. And the smaller cams are real easy on the valve train. You will feel only a very faint lope with a 212 or 216, and they idle perfectly and pull harder than stock from 800 RPM. Expect about 30 tq and 25 HP from one of these, even without headers.

Just last week we installed a baby 216/220/.530 Comp in an '04, with tuning, LG headers and a Blackwing as the only mods, and got 381 RWHP and 375 RWTQ. But the big reward: torque was above 350 RWTQ by 3000 RPM.
What a fun tire burner for running around town.

So, take stock on what you want and pick the cam accordingly. If you want max HP and don't mind sacrificing some amount of reliability, smoothness and midrange fun, then get the 220+ cam. If you drive on the street and love to light 'um up, go with the 212-216 ish cams.

Of course, opinions are like cams, everybody has one.

One thing we all agree on - just do it!

Cheers,
DG
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 05:50 PM
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I run the Comp 224R cam on a 112LSA. Every now and then the damn ting would stall in spite of a good bit of tuning. Ended up putting a Vigilante 2800 stall and no more stalling.
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by The Wrench
Baby cams get a bad rap because they don't match the big guns above 5000 RPM. But, for those of us who don't race, and spend most of our time on the street, mid-range torque is where the real fun is.
The 212/218 will kill the 224/228 in the midrange, but loses out above 5400 RPM. Just depends on what you want. And the smaller cams are real easy on the valve train. You will feel only a very faint lope with a 212 or 216, and they idle perfectly and pull harder than stock from 800 RPM. Expect about 30 tq and 25 HP from one of these, even without headers.

Just last week we installed a baby 216/220/.530 Comp in an '04, with tuning, LG headers and a Blackwing as the only mods, and got 381 RWHP and 375 RWTQ. But the big reward: torque was above 350 RWTQ by 3000 RPM.
What a fun tire burner for running around town.

So, take stock on what you want and pick the cam accordingly. If you want max HP and don't mind sacrificing some amount of reliability, smoothness and midrange fun, then get the 220+ cam. If you drive on the street and love to light 'um up, go with the 212-216 ish cams.

Of course, opinions are like cams, everybody has one.

One thing we all agree on - just do it!

Cheers,
DG
I think the

XR265HR

212/218 .522/.529 114 LSA

will be the one I buy, because with my 1.8 Cranes will lift just a bit more and that is about all I will need. I do ocassionally hit the track, but street driving is 95% of my driving. Also this set-up should be good on my stock converter. I might order it tommorow, I have to do price shopping first.

Thanks for all the advice
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 97C5owner
I have a mild cam with some milled 243's that we worked the imperfections out of and an LS6 intake. Very similar to your projected setup. See my profile for mods.

I have to step on the brake A LITTLE harder than I used to, but it's not bad at all, very drivable. No stall. 409RWHP.
Thanks for your advise also, but I want to make sure the cam does not force me to buy a stall later.
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Old Dec 20, 2009 | 08:50 PM
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I found an article were they tested 3 different cams on a LS1 motor and it gained 32 HP from the XR265HR cam.

http://www.compcams.com/Community/Ar...ID=-1044516358

http://www.compcams.com/Community/Ar...ID=-1044516358
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 08:54 AM
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I ended up going with a Vengence Racing VRX1 cam, specs are 220/220/581/581/114 XER lobes, they told me it was about as big as I could go with a stock converter and 2.73 gear in an A4, they were right BTW!! A little more brake pedal at the stoplights though, and with the Blackwing, Yella Terra, 25% UD pully, Lingenfelter heads, long tubes and cat back, I get 410/405 at the wheels... my 60' is actually down a bit, but running 12.0 at 119 mph all day long... I think there's more in the tune though, and I know with a stall and 3.42 there's way more yet...
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 07:45 PM
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ILM, actually the 212/218 is the exact cam I am running in my own 2000.
I reviewed the 3-cam article mentioned above, and selected the 265HR cam based on that wonderful torque. I'm an old fart, and this cam idles and drives like stock, with just a hint of lope thru the Ti mufflers.
Mine makes 360 RWHP/355 RWTQ without headers. The only other mods are a BW intake, Ti mufflers, and a UD pulley.
Yeah, I know I need headers, but they are so crude, hot, scrapey, rattley; yada, yada.

Yes, the lift will be .560 with your rockers, so probably the Comp 918 springs would be advised - not the smaller 915 that I have.

I recommended the 216/220 because in my nephew's '04 it seems to idle and drive as well as my 212, and would have a bit more oomph to complement your heads. Certainly no issues with a stall in your A4 - the 216 pulls strong from 800 RPM, very much like the 212.

DG
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by The Wrench
ILM, actually the 212/218 is the exact cam I am running in my own 2000.
I reviewed the 3-cam article mentioned above, and selected the 265HR cam based on that wonderful torque. I'm an old fart, and this cam idles and drives like stock, with just a hint of lope thru the Ti mufflers.
Mine makes 360 RWHP/355 RWTQ without headers. The only other mods are a BW intake, Ti mufflers, and a UD pulley.
Yeah, I know I need headers, but they are so crude, hot, scrapey, rattley; yada, yada.

Yes, the lift will be .560 with your rockers, so probably the Comp 918 springs would be advised - not the smaller 915 that I have.

I recommended the 216/220 because in my nephew's '04 it seems to idle and drive as well as my 212, and would have a bit more oomph to complement your heads. Certainly no issues with a stall in your A4 - the 216 pulls strong from 800 RPM, very much like the 212.

DG
DG

thanks for all that good info, but I'm pretty set on the cam, I'm getting to be an old fart soon so it will work for me too.


I got brand new PSI Maxlife LS1511 springs on the CNC heads right now

http://www.usaperform.com/valve-spri...acturers_id=16

So no problems here.

After seing your numbers it should be pretty easy to have the 400RWHP that I was looking for with my set-up.

I like to work slow and take my time with my work so I see this project ending sometime mid jan.

Will keep everyone posted.

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