waddisme

Left front turn signal kept burning out. Replace with new bulb and eventually started working only sporadically. Running hazards seemed to help, so I got the $79 by-pass harness. Daytime lights burn, but no turn signal. Got new socket as old one was corroded pretty bad inside. I spliced blue to A, Brown to B and Black to g on socket - and now - nothing. No daytime lights, to turn signal. Rights side is fine, and I switched fuses, no change. What am I missing? I just spliced wires and soldered. Help.

ajg1915

could be a bad column stalk

lucky131969

Any troubleshooting with a DMM, or just changing parts?

waddisme

I didn't see much need for that seeing the old socket was either corroded or burnt, hard to tell which. Just not sure what to test. What do I test with the three wires and the DMM?

lucky131969

First of all, making sure you have a low resistance ground on the black wire, and checking for 12 volts on the Lt blue/wht and brown wires when appropriate i.e. DRL/turn signal or park mode. I'm assuming you purchased a pigtail when you replaced the connector, this would have been the appropriate time to check ground/voltage before splicing. The turn signals get their ground from SP102.

Knowing what is going on at the connector will also help you isolate if the problem is upstream.

waddisme

Thanks. I will check them tonite as I have only taped them up temporarily so I could drive it today.

lucky131969

Good deal. Then it will be easy to check.

rws.1

The problem is likely a hole burned through the top of the housing for the turn signals. this allows water to enter and it corrodes the socket. You need to seal the hole... some have used JB Weld
Mine got so bad it shorted and melted the wiring.
GM replacement parts even from Gen are expensive.
I bought AC/Delco from www.Rock Auto.com
ACDELCO Part # LS15 {3-WAY FEMALE NATURAL #12083689}
SOCKET,FRT PARK & T/SIG LP w/o SIG & MKR LP(T90)

$41.89

HowlinC5

Isn't this a similar problem where you have to replace the hazzard switch?

waddisme

I have have been thru all this. First, I repl the lense housing with clear ones, look cool. Original did have a hole in the top. Still intermittent turn signal. They would work sometimes if I ran the hazards, so I bought the bypass harness - still no luck. Now I am repl socket. Got one from dealership for $55 next day. Just can't get it to work. Going to check with DMM now.

waddisme

Well - with lights on I got put the black sensor on the black wire and the red on the brown then blue and got nothing. I grounded the black sensor to the frame and put the red on the blue and brown wire and got 10.2 volts. Not sure what any of that means. Taking it to a shop tomorrow. Obviously, I am clueless.

lucky131969

Don't give up just yet, and you're not clueless....you've just learned something important. You have voltage on the blue and brown wire. The fact that you could not read any voltage on the blue or brown wire(red lead connected) and black lead connected to the black wire, suggests you have a ground problem. Now what you need to check the resistance to a good ground on the black wire. I'll PM you my number. I'll be up late.

lucky131969

check out this thread. It sounds like you have lost the ground.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...t-this-is.html

waddisme

Well here is what I have tried so far. I ran a separate ground wire from the common frame ground on the drivers side to the socket - still no lights. I separated Splice Pak 102 and with the black DMM lead on G and the red lead on D I got 10.4 volts. So apparently, I have a wire issue from SP 102 to the socket. Interestingly enough, when I put SP 102 back together, the DRL works, but the blinking part will not. My next step should be?