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I'm gettin good at dropping the drivetrain...

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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 09:50 AM
  #21  
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So with the ignition on, car not moving, I should get no voltage with a DMM if it is working correctly? Or should there be power?

Any way to check solenoid itself?

My gut feeling is it is mech as I had Tick do the Level II rebuild while I had drivetrain apart. Unless I can trace it down by Mon, car is going to them. Thanks for all the help and info.
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 10:27 AM
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Carcass, you're right about the '98 Service Manual. Now i wonder if it's another case of wrong info in the manual, or different years really work opposite??????????
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 10:54 AM
  #23  
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My 98 does just what the 98 manual says-no go into reverse w/out the key on.

I'm sure GM could've changed it for the later models--on mine,if the solenoid takes a dump,I will have no reverse till i replace it--and the way the later model specs read,you'd have reverse,but no lockout.

Now that I think about it,it makes sense...
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 04:59 PM
  #24  
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I pulled info from GM DVD Service Manual.

It wouldn't be the first time that the service manual is wrong.

Just figured I'd post up info, as you can never have enough info when have these problems.

Hope you get it all sorted out.


Originally Posted by byronhunter
I don't know about that?????????
This is from the Service Manual.
---------------------------------------------
With the ignition ON battery voltage is supplied directly to the reverse inhibit solenoid. At forward speeds above 5 kp/h (3 mph) the PCM grounds the control circuit of the reverse inhibit solenoid. This energizes the solenoid and mechanically blocks the shift lever from going into the REVERSE position.
----------------------------------------------------
EDIT:----ajg1915, I guess you type faster than me!
Originally Posted by byronhunter
Carcass, you're right about the '98 Service Manual. Now i wonder if it's another case of wrong info in the manual, or different years really work opposite??????????
Originally Posted by Carcass
My 98 does just what the 98 manual says-no go into reverse w/out the key on.

I'm sure GM could've changed it for the later models--on mine,if the solenoid takes a dump,I will have no reverse till i replace it--and the way the later model specs read,you'd have reverse,but no lockout.

Now that I think about it,it makes sense...
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 05:21 PM
  #25  
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I'm getting my LS2 403 sleeved to 427 next month and replacing the clutch. My torque tube looks almost a bad as yours. I think I'll try the Kevlar/Nylon bushing.

Thanks,

Kevin
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 11:03 PM
  #26  
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Where did you get the flywheel anti-rotation tools.
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Old Dec 26, 2009 | 12:01 AM
  #27  
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Well, I got the DMM on the plug and with the ignition on there 10.4 volts to the red wire when grounded to the frame. I got 0.0 volts when grounded to the green wire. For some reason, car started going into reverse again, but only when ignition is on. I started it and moved it forward and backward 4 or 5 times. I will see if it is working tomorrow. Sounds like an electrical issue, which is scary.

WKMCD -

I have the Kevlar bushing from Jegs that I don't plan on using. You can have it for what I pd for it which would save you shipping and taxes. Let me know if interested.
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Old Dec 27, 2009 | 10:57 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Carcass
My 98 does just what the 98 manual says-no go into reverse w/out the key on.

I'm sure GM could've changed it for the later models--on mine,if the solenoid takes a dump,I will have no reverse till i replace it--and the way the later model specs read,you'd have reverse,but no lockout.

Now that I think about it,it makes sense...
Mine is going into rev now, but it is like above - no go unless ignition is on. However, I do not remember it being that way(?). Anyway, it worked all day yesterday so I will take it. Now on to turn signal socket.
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Old Aug 15, 2010 | 09:24 AM
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What's the part number on the Kevlar bushings?
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