My 04 Coupe has about 24k miles... Still has original rotors, pads, and even tires (which still have a ton of tread--I just got the Vette Dec 3rd and plan on wearing them out MUCH quicker than the original owner!! )

I notice minor pulsation when braking--just enough to be annoying (occurs at all speeds)...

I don't know which direction to go: OEM rotors/pads? Drilled? Drilled & slotted? What pad material? Any particular brand?

I don't track or race the car, but I do appreciate solid braking performance...

I've read some of the forum threads and learned some ideas, but thought I'd throw this one out there anyway (most of the threads I read were rather old)...

I also visited several websites, but, naturally, they all claim to be the "best" (& I am not a mechanic/tech by a long shot--so some of the info is confusing)...

Any info will be greatly appreciated...

 

I like using Hawk brake pads, slotted rotors, and stainless brake hoses. Definatly a noticable improvement.

 

Pulsing might be caused by someone not installing the lug nuts correctly or irregular torque application. I've had sloppy mechanics distort the rotors on my truck by overtorquing and not tightening them in a cross pattern. Its pretty easy just to have them turned and then decide on whether you want to upgrade. I changed my rotors just for looks but I did notice better braking performance even with the oem pads. I dig the way they look. Baer Eradispeed rotors on my '01.

 

If the wheels have been recently removed then lift the car and loosen each wheel enough to make sure you get it centered on the hub. Even though you live in CA you can still get rust around the hub (from washing) which can cause the wheel to be slightly off when tightened so you may need to clean the hubs. If the wheels haven't been off the car before this started then take the car out and do some hard stops to clean up the rotors. Driving the car too easily can cause pulsing. I tracked my 97 for 3 seasons with stock pads without changing the rotors. Never had a pulsing problem althoug I would go through a set of pads in two days. These cars are not meant to be babied. Leave that to the cars that can't take it such as the ricers.

Bill

 

You should look for a Quality rotor drilled and slotted is up to you they are mainly for looks you will have better performance with a solid blank rotor. For brake pad i would recomend the carbotech bobcat 1521.

The Carbotech Bobcat 1521™ is our high performance street compound that is our most successful compound. The Bobcat compound is known for its awesome release and modulation, along with unmatched rotor friendliness. Like our AX™ & XP™ line of compounds, Bobcat 1521™ is a Ceramic based friction material offering minimal rotor damage and non corrosive dust. Bobcat 1521™ offers outstanding performance, even when cold, low dusting and low noise with an excellent initial bite. This compound’s virtually perfect linear torque production provides incredible braking force without ABS intervention. Bobcat 1521™ operating range starts out at ambient and goes up to 900°F. Bobcat 1521™ is suitable for ALL street cars, perfect for your tow vehicle, police cruiser, and has won multiple SCCA Solo 2 and Prosolo National Championships. The Bobcat 1521™ compound has been found to last two-three times longer than OE pads you can purchase at a dealership or national retailer. Bobcat 1521™ compound has also been found to extend the life of your rotors 2-3 times. That’s one of the beauties of Carbotech Ceramic brake compounds. Bobcat 1521™ is NOT recommended for any track use.

 

I recommend HAWK HPS pads and http://brakeperformance.com/ rotors.

 

Great info! The prior owner probably NEVER did any hard braking... I'm gonna give the brakes a work-out and see what happens... (& I don't thing the wheels have ever been off the car either)...

 

pcbunn: those rotors look great!!

 

You will get many opinions here about pads, but it depends a lot on how you actually use them. Read up and talk to experts before making a choice. If you end up not liking what you choose for whatever reason, you can always change them.

As for rotors and since you are not tracking the car, drilled or drilled and slotted rotors will give you more bite while braking heavy at higher speeds. Either version will brake better than plain-faced rotors as there are many extra leading edges passing across the pad. You might not notice much change around town, but the results have been verified by lab and track testing for years. Expect slightly more noise (whirring or light groaning) from time to time, but not enough to bother 99% of people. Pad wear may be slightly accelerated, depending on pad compound and how you drive.

There are a LOT of low-quality options out there. Stick will well-known brands that have been around for a while and offer warranties. Although it is extremely rare that street driving will crack a quality drilled rotor, you want a company that backs their product. I'm not sold on cryogenic treatment yet, but I'm still investigating it. As a engineer with a metallurgical background, most of the claims made by cryo salespeople are without merit when it comes to cast iron. I've seen extensive lab-controlled tests that showed no difference whatsoever, and I've seen data that suggests some improvement. I'm withholding final judgment until I see more independent data, but as of now I won't buy them.

Stainless steel braided brake lines are a no-brainer. 99% reduction in expansion right out of the box, plus a more linear and positive pedal feel. Go with good quality DOT4 or DOT5.1 fluid (NEVER DOT5!) while making the change.

Chris

 

I replaced the rotors due to warping on my sons 99' 2 times in about 45,000 miles. Put drilled and slotted Delco rotors and brake pads on- no problems in over 35,000 miles since.

 

I'm going with stoptek slotted rotors with hawk pads. You can get all 4 rotors+pads for around $750.

 

SargeChris: If your not putting them on yourself send me a PM and you can come out to Fallbrook and we will put them on and save you some money.

 

THanks for the very informative reply!! I am currently leaning toward the Delco slotted/drilled... (but I am not in a "super" hurry)... And I do try to support USA made items (I think Delco is USA made?)...

 

Very generous offer--especially considering that I am NOT a mechanically-inclined person (you may not know what you are geting yourself into!)

I will keep it in mind and PM you when I source the Rotors and pads...

(my in-laws live in Fallbrook, Sleeping Indian/Morro Hills area)...

 

Sounds good man just let me know. I just finished putting an ATI Supercharger on for a guy from the forum. I also bulit my Corvette myself. So if you need me just let me know.

 

I had the exact same problem, continuously for years. The wheels were always hand torqued to 100lbs. Chevy replaced the rotors regularly under warranty too, not once or twice but 6 separate times. It was usually the rears that ended up causing the pulsing. Nothing fixed it till I replaced them with something else.

You'll probably be just fine with the Baer units with aluminum hats. I also went with those and they have been stellar! I just used stock zo6 pads, they are a little heavy on the dust but stop perfectly every time with no noise. The stopping power is quite a bit greater compared to stock too.

 

I sent you a PM--before I read your reply... (you'll understand)..

 

Delco is a US-based brand, but rotors are sourced elsewhere I'm afraid.

 

Which rotors did you use? How many miles have you put on? Any issues at all--or total satisfaction?

And, very important, any noise (squealing, etc.)??

Thanks!