Help me out fellas. My old setup was a stock LS6 block and internals, Trick Flow 215 heads milled to 60cc, a 228/234 112+4 lsa cam, a Yank 3600 with 3.42's. The car was strong and ran 11.6 @ 121 in the1/4. My new setup is the similar. Changes are lighter forged pistons and rods with stock crank, same Trick Flow heads but milled to 59cc, now have 12:1cr, and a new cam: 236/243 112+4 lsa that I thought would be better for the higher compression. Still have the 3600 stall and 3.42's. With this setup I ran a 12.2 @ 113! WTF. On the freeway it feels way quicker and north of 100mph its a beast. It really makes power up in the rpm range but at the track with a 2200rpm launch it was ******* it. The launches didnt feel as hard as before with the old setup and the 113mph bothers me. Im think the 3.42s arent enough gear for me to get in my powerband and launch the car hard enough. At 2200rpm it was creeping at the line. Any suggestion guys? Should I look at something else or does the car need a lot more gear, like 4.11's, or more stall for that cam? I thought my mph would at least be higher. Help!

BTW, new setup is a result of blowing piston #7 on old motor.

 

Sounds like the cam made you loose some low-end torque, which is why it is slower off the line.

 

.....any tuning here? Dyno?

 

Thats what I was thinking. Wonder if that makes it harder to get up to speed hence lower mph as well.

 

Its been tuned but dont have a hp dyno number or graph yet. Ive been breaking in the motor. Its only 2 months old.

 

I would agree that some time on a dyno is the best way to analyze and TUNE your setup. Believe me, I am one who normally puts more emphasis on timeslips than dyno numbers, but in this case, the dyno can show you where you are making torque, and a competent tuner can extract some more torque from the engine and increase the area under under the torque curve. Without some dyno time, you may be banging your head against the wall, where a dyno is going to "show you the light" so to speak. With that done, you can then go to the dragstrip and chart the improvements.
My car is a 6-speed, so I am not all that familiar with automatics, but I understand that a torque converter and stall speed should be selected based on the torque characteristics of an engine. So, a different (higher?) stall speed could allow you to launch at a higher RPM. Of course, if you can live with the higher RPM's on the street, a numerically higher diff ratio may also be better suited for your new setup.
I think your old engine setup was pretty well optimized for your drivetrain configuration (torque converter, diff ratio) and you are going to need to sort it out so as to optimize this new engine. That 11.6 was a very nice ET and I would imagine that you an get back into the 11's with this new setup.
What headers and exhaust setup are you using? Stock? The old setup may have worked well with your exhaust configuration, while this new engine is going to want a different setup.

 

I have Texas Speed long tube headers (1 3/4) with full 3in exhaust. Should be enough for this setup. I think it is time for the dyno though.

 

Hey guys I was wondering, what effects torque management would have on a run if it were still present in the ecu? The car didnt want to rev up and bogged on a burnout (attempt) the first time and it felt weak after the 2-3 shift, where TM takes timing out and a lot of it. All the symptoms the car had, it falling on its face, it feeling quicker on the street, seem to be signs that TM might still be active. It might have been overlooked by accident when I got the new ECU. Also I had to do a crank position relearn, I dont know if that effects the TM in any way. I'll have my tuner take a look. Have you guys heard of torque management doing something like this because Ive seen some graphs taken during 1/4mi runs and you can see it take a huge chunk of timing up top too. Just wondering....

 

I'm guessing your optimal shift point has changed as well. Vary your shift points in 200 rpm increments until you maximize mph.

 

you need to get on the dyno and find out what the new combo is making. You might have a problem somewhere. Possibly in the tune or mechanically, ie poor cam selection. Your MPH definitely indicates a drop in power. I would get this fixed before changing gears.

 

get a good dyno/tuner and see what's happening, get the car properly tuned - when I did my heads/cam/exhaust etc I picked up a net 105hp to the wheels, and lost time at the strip even though the car felt waaaaaaaaaaaay faster..... a little more tuning (quite a bit actually) on the dyno and the street and I ended up 9/10ths faster at the strip than without the mods. The initial dyno tune gave me a bigger hp number at the wheels, but nothing else in between.... there's a little more tunig in my future soon as the weather breaks...

My car is an '02 vert, A4, 2.73 gear (!!) with ported Lingenfelter heads, Venegence Racing cam, UD pully, Yella Terra 1.7, LG Pro long tubes, etc etc. Best stock time was 12.97/109, averaged 13.0 steady, now 12.0/118....feels like more there though...I need gears and a converter...

 

A tuner told me that the bigger the cam the shorter the gears needed to take advantage. I havea pretty agressive set up for an LS1 and was told the 3.42's just arent enough to take full advantage of the mods and that I should swap to a gear no lower than a 3.90. It is an expensive swap though for us Vette owners. a simple 3.90 install with the Hardened output shaft for the left side will run about 1300 bucks installed. 1600 is probably more ike it though.

 

Im sure I need the gears to optimize where this setup makes power and I will be increasing the shift points higher but I did a lot of reading on torque management problems with built cars and the same things I felt happened to other cars. I might have a higher (slower) et which dont bother me but the mph should be higher. I swear I couldve gone faster with my street tires. My car is in 3rd at the end of the qtr and if torque management is killing timing after the 2-3 shift, that would explain the sudden slower acceleration up top and a drop in mph. I plan to make a pass while graphing the timing table and my tuner will also check to see if the torque mngmt is still active. If you drove my car on the street youd know there is no way it would trap 113. Something feels like its killing power under load.

 

Got some tuning done today. Torque management was still on so that got zeroed out, on all tables. We also added 2more dergrees of timing from 4-7000rpm and raised the shift points also to 7000rpms. I drove it a bit on the street and a few freeway miles but the car felt a lot more responsive and eager to revv up, even more than before. Its been raining so I havent gotten on it but as soon as I dries up I'll be out there testing it. Hoping to jump on the dyno soon too. Because of the rain we couldnt do some pulls on the street with the wideband so to be on the safe side we slightly increased the fuel on top for those few extra rpms on the higher shift. So far I did feel a difference so we'll see how it goes.

 

If you dont mind me asking who is doing your Tuning?