Is it Clutch Time?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,200
Likes: 0
From: Branchburg, NJ
Is it Clutch Time?
Never had to do a clutch, so I want to make sure these are the symptoms- the engagement point has moved way down- very close to the floor. I've changed the fluid a couple times, but that hasn't changed the point or feel.
The car is a 2001 with about 56k on it, with about 85 1/4mi passes on it- does this sound about right?
I'd be looking to go with the LS7 setup. I'd need a new disc, pressure plate, flywheel, slave, master, and bearing, correct?
The car is a 2001 with about 56k on it, with about 85 1/4mi passes on it- does this sound about right?
I'd be looking to go with the LS7 setup. I'd need a new disc, pressure plate, flywheel, slave, master, and bearing, correct?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,560
Likes: 485
From: Moberly, Mo
I may be getting ready to do the same thing, those parts sound about right. I'm probably going to got the spec route. I put some dr's on might and the clutch started slipping after a couple hard runs. I did the same thing and changed the fluid, however the weather has been bad here in Missouri for a few weeks and I haven't really had a chance to drive it. I going out for a drive today and then I'll make my decision on the clutch. Good luck.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 6,937
Likes: 21
From: Waldorf MD
The test for a bad clutch is put it in 5th or 6th gear and floor it, if the revs increase WITHOUT a corresponding increase in mph, your clutch is slipping and needs replaced.
There is also an inspection port you can remove and look at the clutch.
There is also an inspection port you can remove and look at the clutch.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,200
Likes: 0
From: Branchburg, NJ
I don't get this type of slippage- what else could cause the moving engagement point?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,200
Likes: 0
From: Branchburg, NJ
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Advanced
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
From: Pantego TX
Well, if the clutch is worn then that means the cylinders would pump more hydraulic fluid into the pressure plate to compensate, forcing the clutch to engage. This would make me think that you'd have to press more on the clutch pedal to make it engage.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 11,405
Likes: 26
From: Whippany NJ
CI 6-7-8-9 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Mine grabs higher now than when i bought the car 6 yrs ago. Doing the 5th or 6th gear test is a good indicator. If it was me, id use it till it dies or if you have to drop the trans for some reason whichever comes first.Im doing the Monster 2.5 series soon only because im dropping the tranny. My oem clutch still grabs perfect.
Last edited by Ikester; Jan 14, 2010 at 09:56 PM.
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
From: Pantego TX
I had my original clutch until 60k miles and it still had more left, but it just felt soft and did not grab in 5th and 6th. You could clearly tell the slipping. Why does the clutch pedal engage further away? Just wondering if anyone knows.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,774
Likes: 66
From: SoCal
My clutch is going, but it has not gone completely yet. Only slips under power in upper RPM area. Bad clutch chatter. Have a ACT twin disk on order. But yeah, if it is grabbing more towards he floor, then time for a slave replacement. Clutch might as well be done as well.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 14,639
Likes: 39
From: Winston-Salem North Carolina
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
I've always thought the clutch test was to slow down to around 25mph in 4th, thn floor it. If the rpms go up and the spedo doesn't, clutch is slipping. A couple of hard pulls from 3rd gear would also show clutch slipping. Good luck , hope its not the clutch
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,793
Likes: 7
From: Santa Maria Ca.
Your symptoms seem wrong for a worn out clutch-the engagement point should be right at the top of pedal travel,not at the bottom,if it's a worn out clutch.
Sounds more like a slave cylinder problem to me too,but either way,the drivetrain's gotta come out to fix it,so you might as well replace all the clutch and hydraulic components while you're at it.
Be very careful when reinstalling the drivetrain-I found out the hard way that the pilot bearing is very easily destroyed,which means you get to do the whole job again.
I went with a Kevlar Composite pilot BUSHING(the second time) ,much harder to mess up if you're a clutz like me.
Be sure to install a remote bleeder-then when you change the clutch fluid,you change ALL of it,not just what's in the reservoir-and it only takes 2 minutes instead of 3 hours.
Sounds more like a slave cylinder problem to me too,but either way,the drivetrain's gotta come out to fix it,so you might as well replace all the clutch and hydraulic components while you're at it.
Be very careful when reinstalling the drivetrain-I found out the hard way that the pilot bearing is very easily destroyed,which means you get to do the whole job again.
I went with a Kevlar Composite pilot BUSHING(the second time) ,much harder to mess up if you're a clutz like me.
Be sure to install a remote bleeder-then when you change the clutch fluid,you change ALL of it,not just what's in the reservoir-and it only takes 2 minutes instead of 3 hours.
Pro
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 535
Likes: 1
From: San Diego CA
Be very careful when reinstalling the drivetrain-I found out the hard way that the pilot bearing is very easily destroyed,which means you get to do the whole job again.
I went with a Kevlar Composite pilot BUSHING(the second time) ,much harder to mess up if you're a clutz like me.
Be sure to install a remote bleeder-then when you change the clutch fluid,you change ALL of it,not just what's in the reservoir-and it only takes 2 minutes instead of 3 hours.
I went with a Kevlar Composite pilot BUSHING(the second time) ,much harder to mess up if you're a clutz like me.
Be sure to install a remote bleeder-then when you change the clutch fluid,you change ALL of it,not just what's in the reservoir-and it only takes 2 minutes instead of 3 hours.
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: brookings sd
99 c-5 convertible, 6 spd, 50800 miles
I just bought this today, (I love it!) and I went out of town and ran it through the gears. The first time through the clutch seemed fine. The second time through, I went from 2nd to 5th and the clutch slipped.
Should I be concerned or just run it out?
Should I be concerned or just run it out?
Race Director
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 16,667
Likes: 1,209
From: Raleigh, NC
St. Jude Donor '15
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,722
Likes: 138
From: Florida
St. Jude Donor '09
Never had to do a clutch, so I want to make sure these are the symptoms- the engagement point has moved way down- very close to the floor. I've changed the fluid a couple times, but that hasn't changed the point or feel.
The car is a 2001 with about 56k on it, with about 85 1/4mi passes on it- does this sound about right?
I'd be looking to go with the LS7 setup. I'd need a new disc, pressure plate, flywheel, slave, master, and bearing, correct?
The car is a 2001 with about 56k on it, with about 85 1/4mi passes on it- does this sound about right?
I'd be looking to go with the LS7 setup. I'd need a new disc, pressure plate, flywheel, slave, master, and bearing, correct?
If the clutch does not slip and it is not exhibiting high RPM shifting problems I would continue to run it. The OEM LUK clutch is much better than what most give it credit for on this forum.
Get yourself a service manual, familiarize yourself with the clutch assembly and do not listen to the internet experts. Otherwise you may end up replacing a serviceable clutch with lots of potential life left in it.