Cam Swap
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,252
Likes: 181
From: NE OH
Overall it's pretty straightforward if you are mechanically inclined. Couple of thoughts:
- Be careful not to move the steering wheel once you disconnect the column
- Pin the crank while you are in there
- Consider replacing the timing set, if the motor has high miles...you are there already
- Be careful when reinstalling the crank bolt. It's hardened, so if you break it, you are in for a real looonnng weekend
- Consider replacing the water pump while you are there also
- Have Fun!
Pro
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 593
Likes: 5
From: Murphy TX
What he said.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,375
Likes: 328
From: CA.
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
The LS1 How To has great directions for a cam swap---the photos are excellent too---
The only other things i would recc. would be to :
1. Install a LS6 valley cover----
take a look inside your intake manifiold when off with a flashlight--you'll be shocked at the oil in there---A huge issue with intake charge contamination- (on a 98)--The LS6 valley helps re-route the PCV system---
EVEN better install some sort of a catch can or coelescating filter on the PCV
2. Think about getting a LS6 intake--good for an easy 10-15 RWHP--
3. I'm sure you're updating the valve springs--
4. Drill a relief hole in the lifter holders(they are some sort of plastic) there are threads on where and how to do this--and why
5. I would always install a NEW oil pump--cheap insurance---make sure--100% sure that the o-ring on the pick-up tube on the pan is in correctly
6. I wouldn't change the water pump unles it leaks or has 150K or more miles--but if you aren't worried about $$$ then change it-
7 .although not really need for a hyd roller--i would pit in a can of the " new engine oil additive" contains zink which has been outlawed in motor oil--but can be purchased as an aditive--helps with break-in
8. It's easy to put a new timing chain and cam sprocket in now too---They are cheap---the crank sprocket is a big job so not really needed unless it's bad-
9. If you have the $$$ you can get some cheap HP by replacing the balancer with an Underdrive unit---It gives you 5-10 RWHP straight accross the whole RPM range and you'll have to take the old one off anyway---you will need to idle the engine up a bit in gear as the streering slows down somwwhat and is difficult to make tight turns at low rpm's BUT with a bigger cam you have to raise the idle anyway !!
The only other things i would recc. would be to :
1. Install a LS6 valley cover----
take a look inside your intake manifiold when off with a flashlight--you'll be shocked at the oil in there---A huge issue with intake charge contamination- (on a 98)--The LS6 valley helps re-route the PCV system---
EVEN better install some sort of a catch can or coelescating filter on the PCV
2. Think about getting a LS6 intake--good for an easy 10-15 RWHP--
3. I'm sure you're updating the valve springs--
4. Drill a relief hole in the lifter holders(they are some sort of plastic) there are threads on where and how to do this--and why
5. I would always install a NEW oil pump--cheap insurance---make sure--100% sure that the o-ring on the pick-up tube on the pan is in correctly
6. I wouldn't change the water pump unles it leaks or has 150K or more miles--but if you aren't worried about $$$ then change it-
7 .although not really need for a hyd roller--i would pit in a can of the " new engine oil additive" contains zink which has been outlawed in motor oil--but can be purchased as an aditive--helps with break-in
8. It's easy to put a new timing chain and cam sprocket in now too---They are cheap---the crank sprocket is a big job so not really needed unless it's bad-
9. If you have the $$$ you can get some cheap HP by replacing the balancer with an Underdrive unit---It gives you 5-10 RWHP straight accross the whole RPM range and you'll have to take the old one off anyway---you will need to idle the engine up a bit in gear as the streering slows down somwwhat and is difficult to make tight turns at low rpm's BUT with a bigger cam you have to raise the idle anyway !!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,392
Likes: 1,135
From: Dyer, IN
While I think LS1 How to is ok for a reference, I still would follow the service manual,....case in point.....the rocker arms. It's just not good practice to torque down the rockers on an open valve. I know this falls under the "I do it all the time, and have never had a problem" category........just my opinion.......as a humble grocery store bag boy......
