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Was wondering if a spec flywheel is needed when installing a spec 3+ clutch. Or can I use a stock flywheel?
Thanks!
Use the stock flywheel, but get it surfaced by a shop before you put it in. I personally bought a new flywheel and hit it and my cltuch disc with a DA(hand sander) with 500 grit. I would also go ahead and buy some ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts because they are neccessary and cheap, trust me... Also replace everything that the kit comes with, TO bearing, Pilot bearing, and make sure you use the shim that the kit comes with.
Use the stock flywheel, but get it surfaced by a shop before you put it in. I personally bought a new flywheel and hit it and my cltuch disc with a DA(hand sander) with 500 grit. I would also go ahead and buy some ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts because they are neccessary and cheap, trust me... Also replace everything that the kit comes with, TO bearing, Pilot bearing, and make sure you use the shim that the kit comes with.
All of this comes from experience.
Ya I am aware of replacing all of the parts, and getting the ARP bolts ect... However, I thought that the shim was only needed on F-bodys and twin disk specs
Ya I am aware of replacing all of the parts, and getting the ARP bolts ect... However, I thought that the shim was only needed on F-bodys and twin disk specs
Well I put the shim on my car and it works great, I am pretty sure there was a thread about this, search and see what you come up with. But all in all use the stock flywheel and get it resurfaced/buy a new stock one and sand it a bit.
Well I put the shim on my car and it works great, I am pretty sure there was a thread about this, search and see what you come up with. But all in all use the stock flywheel and get it resurfaced/buy a new stock one and sand it a bit.
Ya there was, I was reading it, I need to read the rest of it LOL.
Strength could play a part depending on how much HP your car makes. I have noticed a stock flywheel cant take the abuse a aftermarket one can. They are made to be more durable and handle and dissapate heat faster than a stock one.
I installed a Spec stage 2 and Flywheel on my 98 Coupe a few months ago,and didn't use the shim-I used the ls1Tech link in the posts above to take the proper measurements,and it worked out sweet-
Right at first,the engagement was a little close to the floor,but after about 600 miles,it ended up at the middle of pedal travel,which is right where I want it.
If you use the shim and you don't need it,your clutch is going to slip after it gets broken in,so take those measurements carefully,or you'll be back in there to pull out the shim.
I was "back in there" after 2 months,but only because I fubared the pilot bearing while reinstalling the drivetrain,so be careful with that thing,too.
Strength could play a part depending on how much HP your car makes. I have noticed a stock flywheel cant take the abuse a aftermarket one can. They are made to be more durable and handle and dissapate heat faster than a stock one.
Could you explain a bit more about that "dissipate heat faster than a stock one" point?
Could you explain a bit more about that "dissipate heat faster than a stock one" point?
After doing research with my setup, I was told by several clutch manufacturers, that the stock flywheel cant take as much heat as the aftermerket flywheels can. They are made to withstand more heat and less chance of the flywheel getting hot spots, or blueing.
This is what the textrailia told me when I was looking into a new Z06 clutch setup. Not sure if they were just blowing smoke to get me to purchase the setup or what. It sounded right and made sense.