Short story--- Clutch didn't disengage completely, car wouldn't shift at high rpms, I was facing an expensive clutch servicing/replacement.
I figured it would be worth the risk of trying the Tick Adj.Master first...it was. It worked. I'm happy I saved $1200-$1500 on a clutch job.

Longer story----My issue with the clutch - http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ch-issues.html
Took my car to my friend's house this afternoon for the install...a lift and heat in his garage made it almost fun. Followed an install posted here and 'the other forum' and it helped, although not exactly the same... Total time, with a couple of beers, was 3 hours...as with anything else, cut that in half if I needed to do it again.

I found the 'quick-disconnect' of the clutch line to be quite the contrary, but it did finally let go. I also needed to remove another bracket under the dash, the one that has the white 'clutch is released' sensor attached, to help re-install the clutch pedal assembly with the Tick unit attached.

I didn't find much issue with the three screws that anchor the clutch pedal...I have big hands, too, but worked deliberately and carefully and it went well.

I will say, and this may be the reason why I didn't mind working on my back with head/arms under the dash...I REMOVED THE DRIVER SEAT BEFORE I STARTED. Yep, with the driver's seat out of the picture I was able to lie quite comfortably with my feet elevated into the cargo area and take my time without being tortured.

I luckily have a remote clutch bleeder so we went to work with bleeding once all was installed...it took a good amount of time/flushes to clear the lines of air. Once the last few bubbles were done, I buttoned everything up (except the under-dash panels...those stay out until I make my fine-adjustments of the pedal linkage).

From the moment I went to back the car off the lift, I knew the new master worked. I had to lift the pedal substantially off the floor to have the clutch engage and move the car - whereas prior to the install, the clutch would engage immediately off the floor. That was such a great feeling...that the slave now moves enough to fully disengage the clutch and have extra travel to spare. I was very relieved that it worked. I backed the car out the garage and adjusted the linkage to shorten the 'overthrow' of the clutch.
I put the car in first...pressed the clutch in...and rev'd it to 6K rpm. The car didn't move!!!! Success!!! On my drive home, I was able to snap-off successful +6000rpm 2nd-3rd and 3rd-4th shifts, proof that the clutch is disengaging enough. Really, it was very nice to do that.

So all in all, I am very very happy with the Tick Adjustable Clutch Master. It did everything Tick, and other owners, have said about it.
I did not really notice a difference in pedal stiffness, though. Many people have said that it feels much stiffer...I didn't find that to apply to my install. I can't really say it feels any stiffer...another plus!!!

All in all, a good install with a good product that does what it was advertised to do.

Be good,
TomK

 

It's great when something works!! I've installed two and both took 3hrs. Removing the seat is a very good idea and should be part of their instructions. That darn quick connect fitting is a pita until you get it apart and see how it works and then it's like duh....

One of the finest mods I've done to the car.. It makes driving a stock Z06 a real pita getting used to the clutch pedal engaging so far off the floor....

congrats!

 

I like success stories. I was having pedal stick issues with my Z until I installed a remote bleeder and replaced the fluid with the stuff Ranger recommends. I'm thinking this is a temporary fix and a TIC master may be in my future as well.

 

I think I'm going to have to get one of these...

 

It also cured my shifting issues with my Tex single. Great product

 

Nice tohear good story but u r not the first a few in past posted same resultys with tick master-----a success.

I would be curious what if somebosy modify thier stock MC like charlie of Rpm motors did and posted here but i dont have the link.

 

The tick is by far my best mod cant win races if you cant shift.

 

Did you have to pull your bellhousing cover and adjust the pedal by looking at the slave or did you just go by feel?

 

By feel

 

I couldn't shift fast at high rpm with my Tex single disc until I installed the Tick master. Now it shifts perfectly. Nice to buy a product that does what it's supposed to do.

Jimbo

 

By feel, yes.

I first adjusted it and it was too much travel, then I did it and it was too short (the "fix" stopped working - not enough travel and the clutch dragged at high rpm). Then I adjusted it out again to where it did not drag...allowed me to shift into reverse with no resistance...and the "fix" was working.

With the clutch, you can feel where it's pushing and then it eases up a bit (I did remove my clutch pedal spring so that's not what I'm feeling). It's where it eases up a bit that I needed to feel again to ensure that the clutch was disengaging enough.

I'll say it again..it's great to have installed a product that does exactly what it's supposed to do!!!

Be good,
TomK

 

Installed mine about 8 months ago, still have a stock clutch, but with the Procharger I couldn't go through the gears two passes back to back. After the install I haven't had one issue since. The pedal pressure increase was barely noticeable.

 

That was my finding as well...I really didn't notice any increase in pedal pressure, which is quite contrary to what some other users have reported.

The only thing I can think of is that I had removed my clutch-pedal spring a few weeks ago, so the Tick really didn't make much difference in pedal pressure (perhaps the 10-15% they say). Perhaps the other users that complained of increased pedal pressure were used to the pedal-assist of the spring and after removing the spring, as per the install instructions, with the Tick were more sensitive to an increase in pedal pressure...????

 

I felt a little more pressure but I did a centerforce df clutch also. I like the pedal pressure now. I have always hated stock pedal pressure.

 

What size m/c is the tick/tilton (it is cast into the side of the body)? What size is factory?

 

I didn't notice a stamping on the unit, although I think the difference is 1/8". Stock = 3/4 , Titlton = 7/8. As often is, I may be wrong.

 

If the new m/c is larger then the pedal stroke will be shorter and vice/versa. I think most factory hydraulic m/c's are 5/8", but I'd like to confirm on the corvette.

 

Big difference is size and construction of the Tick vs. the stock master.
IIRC I think the Tick is 7/8' and the stock is 5/8" and the Tick's housing is metal whereas the stock GM unit is plastic.
The pedal stroke is no longer or shorter than the stock unit and can be adjusted across a very wide range because the rods and turnbuckle have plenty of threads. I have mine adjusted so the clutch starts to engage a bit before half way and is completely engaged well before the pedal hits the top stop. This is a very worthwhile mod for a high hp car.

Jimbo