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I attempted to replace a squeaking AC belt and tensioner last weekend, but I just didn't have enough room to do the job. In fact, I couldn't even get the new belt on. What do I need to do? Thanks.
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Originally Posted by BOHICA76
I attempted to replace a squeaking AC belt and tensioner last weekend, but I just didn't have enough room to do the job. In fact, I couldn't even get the new belt on. What do I need to do? Thanks.
1999 C5 Auto Coupe BTW.
Get it up on ramps. Go after the main belt from the top first (easy) than the AC belt from underneath. Get the new AC belt on then, when getting the new main belt on, make sure it is in all the pulleys/tensioner first, then (and this is the key) slide the belt over the smooth water pump pulley LAST. Also be sure to hold ur mouth just right too.
Get it up on ramps. Go after the main belt from the top first (easy) than the AC belt from underneath. Get the new AC belt on then, when getting the new main belt on, make sure it is in all the pulleys/tensioner first, then (and this is the key) slide the belt over the smooth water pump pulley LAST. Also be sure to hold ur mouth just right too.
Thanks. I am able to put the main belt back on fine. The problem is the ac belt tensioner. I just don't have enough room to get a tool on the bolt to remove the old one. Are you saying that I don't need to remove any other parts to complete the job? If that's true then that's good news indeed.
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by BOHICA76
Thanks. I am able to put the main belt back on fine. The problem is the ac belt tensioner. I just don't have enough room to get a tool on the bolt to remove the old one. Are you saying that I don't need to remove any other parts to complete the job? If that's true then that's good news indeed.
Correct. Other than first removing the main belt first of course, there is no other part that must be removed in order to remove and install the A/C belt. As indicated, the A/C belt is best accessed from underneath.
You may need to inspect the acc tensioner assembly viewed from under the vehicle. The bushing/bolt mount on the assembly wears out very often causing the squeak. I have replaced it along with the acc idler pulley as the dust cover on this pulley has been changed to a new design. I have also changed out my balancer due to it failing and coming apart.
The squeak for me was with the acc tensioner assembly
Last edited by Got uid0; Jan 26, 2010 at 10:14 PM.
If you push those two tranny cooling lines or whatever out of the way...spread them apart. You can actually get deep or maybe standard socket on there.
On my car though, automatic. I was able to get at the AC belt from the top or bottom...from the top, I was able to put the open end of the wrench on the bolt in the center of the tensioner and I'm pretty sure you push down(on the wrench) if facing rear of car and end of wrench is @ 3 o clock.
This will do it, I have changed that belt twice. Then the idler pulley, then the whole tensioner all separately. This is the way that I ended up doing it each time.
Like the others say, it can be done from below too but it's way easier if done on a lift if you're going to do it from below.
Just my 2 cents.
The belt can be replaced without a whole lot of trouble from the top (just changed mine).
Couple of tips that helped me (found by trial and error).
1) Remove the main tensioner assembly. Takes like 2 minutes and you would not believe how much room you gain to get at the AC belt, tensioner, etc.
2) Wrap belt around crank pulley and ac pulley (of course) then slip on tensioner pulley first and while unloading tensioner slip on fixed idler pulley last. Kinda like the previous post about slipping main belt on smooth water pump pulley last while unloading the main tensioner.
Hope this helps and works for you.
VaPuller
Just my 2 cents.
The belt can be replaced without a whole lot of trouble from the top (just changed mine).
Couple of tips that helped me (found by trial and error).
1) Remove the main tensioner assembly. Takes like 2 minutes and you would not believe how much room you gain to get at the AC belt, tensioner, etc.
2) Wrap belt around crank pulley and ac pulley (of course) then slip on tensioner pulley first and while unloading tensioner slip on fixed idler pulley last. Kinda like the previous post about slipping main belt on smooth water pump pulley last while unloading the main tensioner.
Hope this helps and works for you.
VaPuller
Thought it worth it to give this a bump. Here are a couple of pictures of the aforementioned bushing failure in the original equipment AC tensioner. It would have been futile to replace just the pulley: I accessed the ac tensioner from above. I felt like I was standing on my head but it was doable. As previously mentioned getting the main serpentine tensioner and belt out of the way first gives a lot more room. Another tip, to access the single tensioner bolt a long extension can pass under the steering rack from the front. No swivel or deep socket necessary.
Weird, I didn't have any trouble changing the tensioner there. My ratchet fit just enough for me to get it off.
As with almost any wrenching task, one's dexterity and flexibility (or lack of) can make it more or even less challenging. I had to use the extension I wasn't getting on it with the ratchet.
Super helpful thread guys! Replaced my idler and tensioner at the same time in about 1 1/2 hours and hand tools. The hardest part is getting your hand into the correct position to be able to put the new tensioner in place. There are two small silver tubes blocking access to the tensioner release nut. These two tubes make it very hard to fit a hand in there while holding the tensioner with the bolt inside if it. It is too tight to introduce the bolt while holding the tensioner in place with the other hand. It CAN be done without removing the main accessory belt. Only removed part of the AC belt and flour it back in place. Took some aggressive encouragement but I was able to get it done.
I replaced my tensioner because of a constant rattle sound that resembled an empty spray can rattling at an increasing speed relative to the RPM. Hope this helps! Best of luck!
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