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Changing AC Belt and tensioner.

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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 05:28 PM
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Default Changing AC Belt and tensioner.

I attempted to replace a squeaking AC belt and tensioner last weekend, but I just didn't have enough room to do the job. In fact, I couldn't even get the new belt on. What do I need to do? Thanks.

1999 C5 Auto Coupe BTW.
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by BOHICA76
I attempted to replace a squeaking AC belt and tensioner last weekend, but I just didn't have enough room to do the job. In fact, I couldn't even get the new belt on. What do I need to do? Thanks.

1999 C5 Auto Coupe BTW.
Get it up on ramps. Go after the main belt from the top first (easy) than the AC belt from underneath. Get the new AC belt on then, when getting the new main belt on, make sure it is in all the pulleys/tensioner first, then (and this is the key) slide the belt over the smooth water pump pulley LAST. Also be sure to hold ur mouth just right too.
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
Get it up on ramps. Go after the main belt from the top first (easy) than the AC belt from underneath. Get the new AC belt on then, when getting the new main belt on, make sure it is in all the pulleys/tensioner first, then (and this is the key) slide the belt over the smooth water pump pulley LAST. Also be sure to hold ur mouth just right too.
Thanks. I am able to put the main belt back on fine. The problem is the ac belt tensioner. I just don't have enough room to get a tool on the bolt to remove the old one. Are you saying that I don't need to remove any other parts to complete the job? If that's true then that's good news indeed.
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 06:22 PM
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I used an extension to get at the tensioner from the bottom
one bolt
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by BOHICA76
Thanks. I am able to put the main belt back on fine. The problem is the ac belt tensioner. I just don't have enough room to get a tool on the bolt to remove the old one. Are you saying that I don't need to remove any other parts to complete the job? If that's true then that's good news indeed.
Correct. Other than first removing the main belt first of course, there is no other part that must be removed in order to remove and install the A/C belt. As indicated, the A/C belt is best accessed from underneath.

Btw, I highly recommend Goodyear Gatorback belts:

4040420 = A/C belt
4060798 = Main Belt
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 10:11 PM
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Go here =)

http://www.justanswer.com/questions/...on-c5-corvette

Yes it is a pain with out a lift.

You may need to inspect the acc tensioner assembly viewed from under the vehicle. The bushing/bolt mount on the assembly wears out very often causing the squeak. I have replaced it along with the acc idler pulley as the dust cover on this pulley has been changed to a new design. I have also changed out my balancer due to it failing and coming apart.

The squeak for me was with the acc tensioner assembly

Last edited by Got uid0; Jan 26, 2010 at 10:14 PM.
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 12:54 AM
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Thanks for the info. I will attempt to tackle this again this weekend. I will jack up the front so I can get at it from underneath.
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 02:02 AM
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you can probably just change the pulley rather than the whole tensioner
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 10:37 PM
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if you got to the dealership, the pulley cannot be bought seperate
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by onebighitter
if you got to the dealership, the pulley cannot be bought seperate
it can be but the problem is usually with the assembly and the mounting bolt / bushing
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by onebighitter
if you got to the dealership, the pulley cannot be bought seperate
rockauto , autozone or even o'reillys have them
under 20 bucks

and the problem usually is the bearings in the pulley , NOT the tensioner
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 12:59 AM
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If you push those two tranny cooling lines or whatever out of the way...spread them apart. You can actually get deep or maybe standard socket on there.

On my car though, automatic. I was able to get at the AC belt from the top or bottom...from the top, I was able to put the open end of the wrench on the bolt in the center of the tensioner and I'm pretty sure you push down(on the wrench) if facing rear of car and end of wrench is @ 3 o clock.

This will do it, I have changed that belt twice. Then the idler pulley, then the whole tensioner all separately. This is the way that I ended up doing it each time.

Like the others say, it can be done from below too but it's way easier if done on a lift if you're going to do it from below.

Take care,

Donnie
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 09:37 AM
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Don't forget--BEFORE you crawl under any jacked up car---put the JACK STANDS in place
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 09:04 PM
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Just my 2 cents.
The belt can be replaced without a whole lot of trouble from the top (just changed mine).
Couple of tips that helped me (found by trial and error).
1) Remove the main tensioner assembly. Takes like 2 minutes and you would not believe how much room you gain to get at the AC belt, tensioner, etc.
2) Wrap belt around crank pulley and ac pulley (of course) then slip on tensioner pulley first and while unloading tensioner slip on fixed idler pulley last. Kinda like the previous post about slipping main belt on smooth water pump pulley last while unloading the main tensioner.
Hope this helps and works for you.
VaPuller
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by VaPuller
Just my 2 cents.
The belt can be replaced without a whole lot of trouble from the top (just changed mine).
Couple of tips that helped me (found by trial and error).
1) Remove the main tensioner assembly. Takes like 2 minutes and you would not believe how much room you gain to get at the AC belt, tensioner, etc.
2) Wrap belt around crank pulley and ac pulley (of course) then slip on tensioner pulley first and while unloading tensioner slip on fixed idler pulley last. Kinda like the previous post about slipping main belt on smooth water pump pulley last while unloading the main tensioner.
Hope this helps and works for you.
VaPuller
Thanks everyone for the help.
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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 03:07 PM
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Thought it worth it to give this a bump. Here are a couple of pictures of the aforementioned bushing failure in the original equipment AC tensioner. It would have been futile to replace just the pulley:
I accessed the ac tensioner from above. I felt like I was standing on my head but it was doable. As previously mentioned getting the main serpentine tensioner and belt out of the way first gives a lot more room. Another tip, to access the single tensioner bolt a long extension can pass under the steering rack from the front. No swivel or deep socket necessary.
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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 04:33 PM
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Weird, I didn't have any trouble changing the tensioner there. My ratchet fit just enough for me to get it off.
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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Stealth_Inc
Weird, I didn't have any trouble changing the tensioner there. My ratchet fit just enough for me to get it off.


As with almost any wrenching task, one's dexterity and flexibility (or lack of) can make it more or even less challenging. I had to use the extension I wasn't getting on it with the ratchet.
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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Stealth_Inc
Weird, I didn't have any trouble changing the tensioner there. My ratchet fit just enough for me to get it off.
Same here, manual car and I had lots of room from the top. Just stand on your head and do it.

I could see the idler being a problem but the tensioner was easy to get to from the top.

Peter
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Old Jun 24, 2020 | 11:58 PM
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Super helpful thread guys! Replaced my idler and tensioner at the same time in about 1 1/2 hours and hand tools. The hardest part is getting your hand into the correct position to be able to put the new tensioner in place. There are two small silver tubes blocking access to the tensioner release nut. These two tubes make it very hard to fit a hand in there while holding the tensioner with the bolt inside if it. It is too tight to introduce the bolt while holding the tensioner in place with the other hand. It CAN be done without removing the main accessory belt. Only removed part of the AC belt and flour it back in place. Took some aggressive encouragement but I was able to get it done.

I replaced my tensioner because of a constant rattle sound that resembled an empty spray can rattling at an increasing speed relative to the RPM. Hope this helps! Best of luck!
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