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my vette just hit 270,000 miles the other day. A few weeks before during the really cold weather that came to florida, i took it down to the bradenton drag strip for some passes. it was the hardest ive run it since i owned it. i took 8 passes that day expecting to run 12s but i couldnt get break a 13.04. now upon cold start up, i can hear some knock. it sounds like rod knock with some lower pitch squeaks like a rusty wheel barrow wheel turning. eventually when the car is warmed up, it gets a little more quiet but you can still hear the knock. now tell me is this a spun main bearing, rod bearing or a stretched rod? im really scared right now, although the car still remains drivable to and from work...
now if this motor is toast, is it better to rebuild it assuming the block is still good, or should i pick up a cheap 5.3 or 6.0 truck motor and put on a set of heads and a nice rumbly cam?
my vette just hit 270,000 miles the other day. A few weeks before during the really cold weather that came to florida, i took it down to the bradenton drag strip for some passes. it was the hardest ive run it since i owned it. i took 8 passes that day expecting to run 12s but i couldnt get break a 13.04. now upon cold start up, i can hear some knock. it sounds like rod knock with some lower pitch squeaks like a rusty wheel barrow wheel turning. eventually when the car is warmed up, it gets a little more quiet but you can still hear the knock. now tell me is this a spun main bearing, rod bearing or a stretched rod? im really scared right now, although the car still remains drivable to and from work...
now if this motor is toast, is it better to rebuild it assuming the block is still good, or should i pick up a cheap 5.3 or 6.0 truck motor and put on a set of heads and a nice rumbly cam?
What a surprising outcome after drag racing a car with 270k miles......well done
well, if you found out how much i have in the car, you'd walk away. i got this car with 249k miles, for the low price of $6,000 cash. of course it was rough but well worth it. i did all the repairs myself with little to no aid. but im already thinking a motor swap in this thing is gonna be a very involved process... if i use a truck motor and swap over all my accessories i can cut costs but the car will be 100 lbs heavier in front. dunno how bad that will affect the handling.
eh.. you need to get the motor out/apart to figure out what's wrong with it first. but i suspect you can fix it for a few hundred bucks if you're capable of doing the work. maybe a grand at most.
obviously this won't be a forged engine or anything..but for replacing parts with stock components you can get stuff stupid cheap now if you look
(or i'd be more than happy to give you 5K for the car and take it off your hands )
If the crank is still good you could overhaul it.. Or maybe you could find a used short block and rings and bearings would do wonders. Just depends on how much you want to spend..
I can't begin to imagine the amount of electrical issues/problems you'll own if you put a non-LS engine in that car. It would't be disastrous, it WOULD be a total catastrophe!
you can rebuild it for a very small amount of money if you do your homework and do the work yourself. or, i SERIOUSLY would buy it for what you paid minus what i could fix it for.
I can't begin to imagine the amount of electrical issues/problems you'll own if you put a non-LS engine in that car. It would't be disastrous, it WOULD be a total catastrophe!
i wouldnt dare put any motor in this car that wasnt a gen3-gen4 ls motor. ls motors are supposed to be completely interchangeable with the ls truck iron motors at least from what i have read. all accesories should swap right over. if i can put a cheap 5.3 or 6.0 iron ls motor in this car and spend way less that what it would cost to rebuild this motor i am better off keeping it as a core i can rebuild later in my own time. i just gotta be back on the road asap with my own car instead of borrowing someone elses. i travel all around the country for work and this car has to be economical and dependable at the same time as it once was...
Originally Posted by schpenxel
eh.. you need to get the motor out/apart to figure out what's wrong with it first. but i suspect you can fix it for a few hundred bucks if you're capable of doing the work. maybe a grand at most.
obviously this won't be a forged engine or anything..but for replacing parts with stock components you can get stuff stupid cheap now if you look
i am more than capable of doing this tear down and swap all by myself as i have with dsms, except this will probably take a lot longer. time is the issue here so i really might have to find a cheap truck motor to put in here (with the exception of the weak 4.8 vortec.)
Originally Posted by schpenxel
(or i'd be more than happy to give you 5K for the car and take it off your hands )
I think you are the one dreaming my dear. The book value on your car in excellent condition(which it's probably not)..... is $7700. Now that you've trashed the motor, $5K is about right........
exactly. you paid 6K for it and the engine is screwed. 5K is low.. but 10K is ridiculous. I paid 14K for a '99 5 years ago with under 100K miles on it. now THAT was a deal.
I think you are the one dreaming my dear. The book value on your car in excellent condition(which it's probably not)..... is $7700. Now that you've trashed the motor, $5K is about right........
if $4,000 gets me an aluminum ls6 caddy motor, im gonna go ahead and spend $700 for a used low mileage lq9 6.0l motor from my ex's escalade that she totalled a few months ago. they only weigh 65 lbs more than the aluminum blocks. anyways motor comes with all accessories, so i can sell off those truck parts on ebay, and transfer all mine over for the costs of $200 in misc. gaskets, bolts, my own labor etc, i may end up doing that instead. gotta be back on the road asap. that truck motor might weigh more but it is probably worth it because it has a no break in time like i would have to do in a new motor. but thank you all for the advise and suggestions. then my car will reliable again and have the extra .3l of displacement and some extra torque + a physically stronger motor.
I think you are the one dreaming my dear. The book value on your car in excellent condition(which it's probably not)..... is $7700. Now that you've trashed the motor, $5K is about right........
even though the mileage is high the car is in excellent shape in and out. fixed my trans problem and had no issues since then. just the miles are high but im not gonna wanna sell the car for less than 10k when i swap in the better 6.0 lq9 iron motor.
Shop around, there are a lot of great deals out there right now on long blocks and performance engines. Some come with some great warranties
I am not a big fan on the iron blocks for the Corvette, 65 lbs is pounds you don't have to pull down the highway. Plus as you demonstrated the alum blocks are really doing well in the high performance arena. But to each his own.
Shop around, there are a lot of great deals out there right now on long blocks and performance engines. Some come with some great warranties
I am not a big fan on the iron blocks for the Corvette, 65 lbs is pounds you don't have to pull down the highway. Plus as you demonstrated the alum blocks are really doing well in the high performance arena. But to each his own.
ive thought about this over and over and over again. what is 65 lbs on the front of the car? probably not much when the car's weight is already balanced close to 50/50. say these cars weigh in at 3200 lbs. that looks to be about less than 2% more weight bias in the front. the car should still handle well and i will have a tiny bit of understeer, prolly not enough to notice as a daily driver unless im running it on a twisty course. plus i could throw heavy shots of nitrous or boost at it later and have a much faster car.