Got a 2000 Convt. that I just bought and have noticed that it tends to wander a bit. Dramatically when I roll over a groove in the road. What gives? I wouldn't think getting an alignment would totally correct this problem. Anyone have any ideas or recommendations? Anyone know of good shop to take it to in the North Texas area?

 

I keep mine locked in the garage so it can't wander around.


still got runflats?

 

NICE! Ok, you got me there. Yes, it does still have the GY Eagle F1 Runflats.

 

Change those runflats over to either the Michelin runflats or non-runflat tires and your problem will be solved.

 

So you think it could be the tires, rather than maybe needing an alignment? I am def. going to do the alignment. I hear the Michelin Pilot Sports are really good and I heard not to bother going back to runflats. Any advice is good advice to me.

 

How old are the runflats?

 

IT is called tramlining, here is more than you want to know, from Tire Rack:


Tramlining: Coping with the Ruts in the Road



The term "tramlining" is being used to describe when directional control is disrupted by the vehicle's tendency to follow the longitudinal ruts and/or grooves in the road. It's name could be compared to the tram or trolley driver who does not steer because his vehicle follows the path established by the tracks.

Any vehicle can exhibit tramlining on certain areas of the highway because of uneven pavement or severe rutting. And all vehicles tramline to some degree rather than obediently following the driver's steering input. For example, there's usually at least a small change in steering resistance felt through the wheel when crossing an uneven expansion joint or asphalt junction during lane changes.

Noticeable increases in tramlining are frequently uncovered when drivers living in the snowbelt make the seasonal changeover from winter tires to summer tires, or when any driver upgrades the performance of their tires using either the same size or going to a "Plus Size" tire and wheel package. The reason that it becomes more pronounced then is because neither the typically narrower and softer handling winter tires nor the Original Equipment tires generate as much grip or responsiveness as the higher performance summer tires. Since the vehicle's suspension works as a complete package, a higher performance tire will also uncover any previously unnoticed looseness in the rest of the suspension.

Components

Tires have the most direct influence on tramlining because they are the part of the vehicle that comes into contact with the road (and the longitudinal ruts and/or grooves that exist there). Unfortunately anything that increases a high performance tire's responsiveness also increases its willingness to tramline.

High performance tires with short sidewalls that develop lots of cornering power at lower slip angles will be more susceptible to tramlining than standard All-Season passenger tires that develop less cornering force until their slip angle increases. A wider treaded tire will encounter more longitudinal ruts and/or grooves in the road than a narrow treaded tire. A tire with large tread blocks that transmits the driver's input to the road with great precision will also transmit the road's imperfections back to the vehicle's suspension. And because tires become more responsive as their tread depth wears away (which is why tires are shaved for competition and track use), a tire will become more likely to tramline as it wears.

Wheels can influence tramlining as well. Installing wider tires or a "Plus Size" tire and wheel package usually requires using wheels with a different offset then the vehicle's original wheels. In some cases, the new wheel will have slightly less offset than the original and in other cases, slightly more. It all depends on the vehicle's suspension design and available wheelwell clearances. You will even find that Original Equipment manufacturers often use different wheel offsets for their different diameter tire and wheel packages.

Usually the amount of offset change is kept to a minimum and vehicle tracking remains relatively unchanged. However it the offset is significantly different, it will alter the way the road forces are transmitted through the tire and wheel to the suspension. Therefore, large changes in wheel offset will increase the likelihood of tramlining.

Suspension bushings, ball joints and shock absorber mounts have a direct influence on tramlining as well. As miles are driven and the years go by, the suspension's wear parts will deteriorate as they age. This often happens so slowly that it isn't very noticeable. Over time the ever-increasing suspension wear permits play that eventually allows the tire to be directed by the irregularities of the road rather than be controlled by the suspension.

Imagine a worn suspension that allows a front wheel and tire to swing between the recommended 1/16-inch of toe-in and 1/16-inch of toe-out when it encounters a rut in the road. This 1/8-inch difference in the direction that the tire is pointed will result in the vehicle tramlining. Replace the worn part to remove the play and you will significantly reduce or remove the tramlining. Many drivers with higher mileage cars have reported that replacing worn suspension components has eliminated tramlining and made the car drive like it is new again...which I guess it essentially is!

Service Adjustments

Using higher tire pressures than recommended by the vehicle manufacturer for your driving conditions will unnecessarily stiffen the tire and make it even more willing to cause tramlining. If you are running higher tire pressures than necessary, simply dropping the tire pressures to those recommended by the vehicle manufacturer will help reduce tramlining.

Alignment settings can be key as well. The "camber" and "toe" settings both play a role in vehicle stability and the propensity for tramlining. Extreme positive or negative camber settings will make a vehicle more sensitive, especially when only one wheel encounters a longitudinal rut and/or groove at a time. Even if all the tires are "aimed" straight ahead when the vehicle is in motion, a tire that is "cambered" wants to turn. This is the result of the "camber thrust" generated by a leaning tire (it is also part of the explanation of how motorcycles turn). A vehicle suspension using lots of negative camber for competition or the track will experience more tramlining on the street.

Additionally, the drivers who use additional toe-out settings to encourage their vehicle to turn into corners better also encourage tramlining because the extra toe-out will reduce vehicle stability in a straight line.

In the case of the competition driver who uses non-factory alignment settings, the amount of tramlining that is acceptable has to be left up to the driver. For only street-driven cars, getting them aligned with negative camber and toe settings within the factory's specifications is an important first step.

Roads

On a multi-lane highway, usually the left lane offers the smoothest road surface because it sees the least amount of heavy truck traffic. Unfortunately, on many interstate highways, it's not legal to continually drive there (pull right except to pass). While the center lane can be almost as smooth on a six-lane highway, there can be exceptions. For example, in the case of I-94 between Chicago and Milwaukee, you will find that when the road was widened from two to three lanes, the center of the new center lane is on top of the original junction between the earlier two lanes. This means that vehicles traveling in the new center lane have their right hand tires on the original right hand truck lane and their left side tires are on the original left lane. This can cause an uncomfortable feeling for miles. Usually the right hand lanes are the least smooth because they are rutted by heavy truck traffic. When you drive in those lanes, or drive across them to exit the highway, it's possible that you'll find your vehicle may feel like it wants to follow the truck ruts and has a mind of its own.

Driving Style

If you experience tramlining, the main thing you want to remember is to keep both hands on the steering wheel in the proper "9- and 3-o'clock" positions. This will help you make the precise steering inputs that will help keep your vehicle on course. You sacrifice precise control if you drive with one hand on the wheel or both hands in the wrong place.

 

runcraps

 

Oldvetter, That was a mouthful..........but also VERY informative. Thank you for the information. Now, all I have to do is have it all checked out. Then probably buy a new suspension package.

 

If the tires are in good shape then the problem is probably the alignment.
Factory alignment is set with the bottom of the tire slightly outside the top of the tire. This allows for better cornering, stiffer steering wheel, and no wander with the wide tires.
However, this setting also wears the inside of the tires considerable.

Chances are the previous owner had the alignment adjusted to a more flat profile to prevent tire wear and they actually got it too flat which is causing the wander. Is the steering wheel stiff to turn or very easy (one finger operation)? If very easy to turn this is another indication that the alignment has been adjusted.

Setting it back to factory will eliminate this problem but as stated, will start wearing the inside edge of the tire.

Do a search for alignment settings and you will find where some have posted the best alignment setting to prevent tire wear and yet will have no wander.

 

Thanks Thomastl. I will. Thanks to everyone for their input. Glad i'm on this forum with people that are quick to help. You guys are awesome!

 

This symtom is very characteristic of a toe-out condition on the front/rear wheels. This is corrected with a proper alignment.

Be very fussy about who you have touch your alignment. Two or three technisions out of one hundred actually understand what they are doing. Then you have to find one of those who really care.

I don't mean to sound harsh, but I was an alignment specialists/journeyman mechanic back in the day. I learned from the best in the country, and they tought me well.

I hope this helps.

Roger T

 

so how do you find someone who knows what theyre doing? im having the same problem with my vette

 

The so called stock alignment can still allow tramlining. The way to make sure your alignment is correct is to have the tech apply the Service Preferred Settings with no or minimal tolerances. Then make sure the front wheels are toed in just a bit to reduce the tramlining.

Bill

 

My 03 Z06 with almost new stock F1s tramlines a little. I haven't checked the alignment on it yet. Only had it a few months.

My 99 Mustang use to tramline bad with the stock size tires and factory alignment settings. After I lowered it, installed bumpsteer tie rod ends, extended ball joints, caster camber plates, and aligned it, it drives straight as an arrow. For the street I set it at -.2* camber, + 4.5* caster, and 1/16" toe in. Autocross I set it to -3* camber and leave the rest. Setting the camber further negative moves the toe from in to out a smidge. Most tracks I set it around -1.5* camber which brings the toe to near zero. It doesn't seem to tramline with any of these settings which makes me think the tramlining was more of a bumpsteer issue before.