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If your m/c is functioning properly replacing it will not solve your problem. If you were to install a new m/c with larger bore to try and extend the throwout bearing more it will blow the seals and damage the t/o. Could also damage the diaphram spring on your pressure plate. The shimming suggested above is what you probably need to do. In general, you want the t/o bearing to be about 1/8" away from the fingers of the diaphram. No more than that. A little less may ok depending on pressure plate. Check with the mfg. It's still a good idea to install the tilton m/c that tick sells as it is an improved raplacement, but will still require the shimming unless your current parts are not working as they should.
Called Spec and they said that even though the C5 did not generally need the shim, it sounded like I might need it in this case. However, going with the Tick solves the problem, reduces pedal pressure, and should be much better altogether. As far as new slave, they are included with Spec kits.
If your m/c is functioning properly replacing it will not solve your problem. If you were to install a new m/c with larger bore to try and extend the throwout bearing more it will blow the seals and damage the t/o. Could also damage the diaphram spring on your pressure plate. The shimming suggested above is what you probably need to do. In general, you want the t/o bearing to be about 1/8" away from the fingers of the diaphram. No more than that. A little less may ok depending on pressure plate. Check with the mfg. It's still a good idea to install the tilton m/c that tick sells as it is an improved raplacement, but will still require the shimming unless your current parts are not working as they should.
I appreciate the tip on the t/o measuring. I will say this as an aside note; if anyone is considering the pfadt hard mount motor mounts AND transmission mount, be ready to shake, rattle, roll and vibrate down the road!! It is a little more than I had anticipated... Perhaps one or the other may not have been as drastic...
haha you got another thing comin if you think the tick will reduce pedal pressure...i liked the way my spec clutch felt way better prior to the Tick master install...pedal pressure seemed to increase 40% or so
haha you got another thing comin if you think the tick will reduce pedal pressure...i liked the way my spec clutch felt way better prior to the Tick master install...pedal pressure seemed to increase 40% or so
Wow! That seems to be totally contradictory from the rules of hydraulics, other persons' experiences, and aftermarket manufacturers' recommendations. Are you fairly certain there is not another problem?
you must be thinking backward...no clutch pedal assist spring...larger and shorter bore in itself would induce increase pressure to push the same amount of fluid...
the tick requires less pedal movement to push the same amount of fluid so say if it takes half the distance to do the same fluid movement it will be more difficult to press
Wow! That seems to be totally contradictory from the rules of hydraulics,
Uh, no, it's actually spot on with hydraulic principle.
Trying to force a higher volume of fluid through a passage of unchanged volume will increase applied fluid pressure....which will never require less work on the input side.
A simple search of Tick master will tell you all you need to know about pedal pressure. Even Tick will tell you it gets a bit stiffer.
It has to, or their claims of higher volume would be false.
You guys are correct! I had read some wrong information from another source. Reading TICK's FAQs says maybe 15% increase. I hope that is not a direct correlation to pedal feel with their SPEC2 and OEM master cylinder w/o shim. Because another 15% over current configuration (albeit inadequate) would get to be a little tiresome with shifts required on some of the road courses I have been running.
I suppose I could get out my old fish weighing scale and rig it up to the harness bar, configure a series of pulleys to allow full pedal travel and try to quantify the exact percentage increase but then I would have to deal with that whole ratio thingy.....
If you match the bore size of the new m/c to the original your pedal effort will remain the same all else unchanged. Tilton makes a large variety of m/c. You could ask tick to supply you with smaller bore size if their standard one is larger than factory. I have yet to get an answer as to what bore size they use. The tilton m/c's have it cast into the side.
On the pfadt mounts, I have thier motor mounts and have not noticed any additional vibration.
I did not find this to be the case. I removed my pedal spring before the Tick install, so I belive that may be where many find the big increase in pedal effort.
The pedal effort did increase some, but it wasn't noteworthy.