I'm facinated by a couple of the responses. My car runs 130 - 160 degrees every time I drive it (think about it!), and it does not run "lousy" at those temps!!!!!!!

 

Too cool and your operating clearences will be wrong.

 

I understand that, my point is that these guys are saying there car runs lousy. That is not something you typically feel going through the warm-up. It may not be good for the car, but I don't feel it running lousy (no, I don't run it wide open at lower temps, but lot's of guys do). Just trying to point out what I consider to be a strange observation.

 

I have a 2001 LS1 and I changed the thermostat to a 172 degree unit to get the "normal" coolant temp down to around 185 in the summer. Houston is a hot place. Besides, your oil typically runs about 20 degrees hotter than your coolant. Also, I am an engineer, and I can assure you that aluminum and heat do not mix well. Overheat your engine to boil over point and then check out those aluminum heads for true! Now think about what your lovely aluminum block just went through. Your bearing surfaces are where the real wear and tear are at with temps hitting 300 Deg F locally. You need the lower coolant temp to help cool the oil (check out your radiator - dual lines for oil & glycol mix cross exchange). Plus, good 'ol GM thoughtfully programmed the twin electric fans not to come on until coolant hits around 230 Deg F. I just loved watching my temp gauge swing from 195 to 235 last summer while in traffic, top down and a/c running to get the fans to kick in. With a bottom breather like the C5, GM's approach was great when you are flying down the freeway but terrible in stop and go traffic.

At around 180 Deg F for about 15 minutes your oil will cook off most of the acids and water left over from cold runs. I wait until my engine hits 100 Deg F always before taking out. And my C5 is a daily driver. Change the oil every 4000 miles (forget about the oil change reminder) and all will be fine. I also change that thimble of an oil filter every 2000 miles because your oil can only suspend so must carbon and soot before it starts grinding away at your bearing surfaces. Temperature isn't the only killer.

One last thing - Your car will pass an emissions test with a colder thermostat. The cats heat up to several hundred degrees. I have Corsa Indys with a cross over pipe and she really pops at deceleration. That's because unburned hydrocarbons are hitting those hot cats and igniting (exploding) creating that popping sound you hear. Just buzz the car up and down the freeway for about 15 minutes and then off to your local test station. The cats will be red hot and ready.

 

I have the 160 stat in but no reprogramming, so the fans still come on @ 228.

With the stock stat the cruising running temps were 192, now 178.

It never, once warm, runs under 178.

I explained to the dyno dude that the LS1 engine runs best @ 180, he said "no I don't think so, alluminum engines need to run with some heat in them". I've dyno'd 3 times and the 2nd passes are always better #'s.

 

Hi C5 TECH-
I don't mean to butt heads with you as you are an excellent help for myself and all on this forum. Why do you suppose then that the Chevrolet customer service person I spoke to back in Ohio or where ever I called right from the phone number on their website WOULD NOT tell me who manufactures this motor or even offer to help me find out? I would logically deduce that the C.S person WANTS me to have to go to the dealer and spend $200 dollars on a BRAND NEW motor instead of doing the logical thing of replacing a $2 dollar part. Is this good business practice? If they did not make any money off the parts like you said, then they should have no problem in helping me repair my own car at a greatly reduced amount of money, right? That would be great customer service! Is this just sheer bad customer service on their part or trying to prevent me from finding out who manufactures this part to keep the money in the company? Why is it also that parts from ANY dealer are marked up to ungodly prices? I'm not being a smart butt, I just want to know how I can find this part and fix my car, 'cause I REFUSE to pay a ransom for a part and WASTE a perfectly good part, also! It is not logical to throw away a perfectly good, working motor due to one small part of it, is it? Can you help me out with finding this part, please?
Steve

 

Got it . Funny my car has never run lousy ever , hot cold , whatever. I'm with you on that one.

 

"Why do you suppose then that the Chevrolet customer service person I spoke to back in Ohio or where ever I called right from the phone number on their website WOULD NOT tell me who manufactures this motor or even offer to help me find out?"

Any one who has delt with Customer Service will tell you that these people are far from knowledgable.They are basicly there to send you in a direction...

As far as dealer parts mark-up,there is GM suggested list that some go by,but unfortunatly others have their own in house dealer mark-up :rolleyes: that they go by,and yes it is obsurd...You see,everone in the dealer service dept. makes commission off of parts,except you guessed it,the techs (the ones that diagnose and replace them :cry )...Techs have alot of work that is turned down,and customers that dont return simply because of the price of parts,and this is one of the techs biggest complaints...Dealers dont get it :nonod: So I feel your pain ;)

I have a few headlamp motors kicking around and I will check the gear (not sure if they had dead motors or gear problem)...Will get back to you :)

 

Drop top Dave AKA Dennis Miller? :lol: