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I know there's lots of threads on this, tons. Too much to sift through to see if my situation is typical, since I don't know the car.
I bought a 98 6 spd, two weeks ago. Have a pile of reciepts. I see work has been done in the past (twice) on the column lock, but can't make out if it was a GM fix or what (it was at a dealer).
The steering wheel NEVER locks. I do hear the steering lock motor when shutting off the car.
Once in 2 weeks the screen said 'Column lock...issue or?", then never again.
Today, I jacked up the front end to do an oil change; then remounted the battery (was loose). Got in and backed up and car shut off. Restarted and backed up and shut off again.
Then I got a message that said "pull key and wait 10 seconds". I did, car started and then no issue.
Is this a CLB issue? Do I need to do the Non-GM fix?
If you still hear the column lock motor but your steering wheel does not lock, it probably means that the lock pin has been removed. However, even though your column does not lock you still will be stranded if the motor fails to initialize. The only way to fix the problem once and for all is with a CLB. But, you should read the column lock sticky. I'm not sure but there may be issues with using a CLB on a 98.
I know there's lots of threads on this, tons. Too much to sift through to see if my situation is typical, since I don't know the car.
I bought a 98 6 spd, two weeks ago. Have a pile of reciepts. I see work has been done in the past (twice) on the column lock, but can't make out if it was a GM fix or what (it was at a dealer).
The steering wheel NEVER locks. I do hear the steering lock motor when shutting off the car.
Once in 2 weeks the screen said 'Column lock...issue or?", then never again.
Today, I jacked up the front end to do an oil change; then remounted the battery (was loose). Got in and backed up and car shut off. Restarted and backed up and shut off again.
Then I got a message that said "pull key and wait 10 seconds". I did, car started and then no issue.
Is this a CLB issue? Do I need to do the Non-GM fix?
Thanks for any help you can give me.
^^The CLB issue is kind of complicated. At least to me.
GM issued 3 recalls due to column lock issues. After not being able to get it right twice, GM issued a 3rd recall a few years back where the fix was to remove the column locking plate so that the steering wheel could never lock.
Given what you said, I am guessing your car was fixed under this recall.
^^The CLB issue is kind of complicated. At least to me.
GM issued 3 recalls due to column lock issues. After not being able to get it right twice, GM issued a 3rd recall a few years back where the fix was to remove the column locking plate so that the steering wheel could never lock.
Given what you said, I am guessing your car was fixed under this recall.
Sounds like the lockplate has been removed and the GM Harness K relay has been installed. The GM harness keeps the column lock actuator in the circuit, so you can hear it cycle even though the column cannot physically lock.
If you had the battery disconnected, then the problem may have just been to re-synchronize the column lock actuator circuit with the BCM.
If the relay has failed, the BCM will not received the correct signal and the fuel will be cut off when you drive the car over 2-3 miles per hour.
You need to either get an aftermarket relay (CLB) or install another GM Harness K relay.
You need a working relay to make the system work.
Sounds like the lockplate has been removed and the GM Harness K relay has been installed. The GM harness keeps the column lock actuator in the circuit, so you can hear it cycle even though the column cannot physically lock.
If you had the battery disconnected, then the problem may have just been to re-synchronize the column lock actuator circuit with the BCM.
If the relay has failed, the BCM will not received the correct signal and the fuel will be cut off when you drive the car over 2-3 miles per hour.
You need to either get an aftermarket relay (CLB) or install another GM Harness K relay.
You need a working relay to make the system work.
Yes, looking at the invoice, a K Harness was installed in 2008. I ordered a CLB from CorvetteofHouston. Just confused with all the posts in that huge thread, some stating the CLB needs to be done BEFORE GM gets it's hands on your car, so I'm not sure if the CLB will work or not.
there's 1100+ posts in there, going back and forth regarding automatics vs. 6 spds, pre 2000 vs post 2001 etc. It gets confusing. There are posts there telling you to do the CLB before the GM fix, but appears I've had some GM fixes. So, I'm trying to get a step by step giving the info I have.
If the problem is a failed Harness K relay, then the aftermarket CLB relay should fix the problem. It leaves the column lock actuator disconnected, so you will not hear the actuator cycle anymore when you turn the key, but the BCM should get the right signal and keep the fuel from being cut.
If you have the panel off below the steering column, one way to determine if the relay has failed is to disconnect the harness k relay, and reconnect the column lock actuator back to stock position. If your actuator still works, this should get you where you can drive the car because the actuator will send the correct signal back to the BCM.
When you get the CLB, you disconnect the actuator, and connect the CLB in its place. Be sure you completely remove the Harness K relay harness, and connect the CLB to the main wiring harness and not to the Harness K connector.
there's 1100+ posts in there, going back and forth regarding automatics vs. 6 spds, pre 2000 vs post 2001 etc. It gets confusing. There are posts there telling you to do the CLB before the GM fix, but appears I've had some GM fixes. So, I'm trying to get a step by step giving the info I have.
That's exactly why the sticky is so long-everyone thinks their situation is special. It's SIMPLE-reomve all GM electrical fixes if there are any and replace with a CLB-simple enough for ya?
If the problem is a failed Harness K relay, then the aftermarket CLB relay should fix the problem. It leaves the column lock actuator disconnected, so you will not hear the actuator cycle anymore when you turn the key, but the BCM should get the right signal and keep the fuel from being cut.
If you have the panel off below the steering column, one way to determine if the relay has failed is to disconnect the harness k relay, and reconnect the column lock actuator back to stock position. If your actuator still works, this should get you where you can drive the car because the actuator will send the correct signal back to the BCM.
When you get the CLB, you disconnect the actuator, and connect the CLB in its place. Be sure you completely remove the Harness K relay harness, and connect the CLB to the main wiring harness and not to the Harness K connector.
Thank you very much. Right now, after the "remove key wait 10 seconds" a couple days ago, haven't had an issue again. Not sure why it's intemitent, but looks like the CLB will keep that gremlin away. I read something about having to do something on the passenger side on the 6 speeds, or early 6 speeds, is there something I need to do there?
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