I posted last week about my Hurst install, including a pictorial on how to install it. I mentioned checking the stops to make sure they were secure. This post is to reinforce that warning based on an experience I had yesterday.

I was on my way to the Atlanta Chassis Dyno Day to meet other forum members when, about 2 miles from my destination, I suddenly lost 1st, 3rd, 5th and reverse gears. Luckily I just cruised in 4th until I got to ACD and parked.

I suspected the stops in the Hurst immediately and borrowed some tools from the ACD techs. I took the console and instrument trim panel out and, sure enough, the foward stop nut had vibrated loose and fallen off. The set screw (stop) had vibrated so that it was threaded all the way in and was blocking the shifter shaft from any foward motion. I removed it and the rear stop. All was well and the day proceeded without incident. It only took about 15 minutes to make this repair since I'd already done it during the initial install.

This was after I had checked the stops during installation! My advice would be to either use Locktite on the stops to ensure they never loosen on you or remove them altogether since our trannies have their own stops anyway. In assemblies like this, I usually use a second locknut behind the first one to make sure it can't back out. Didn't think it was necessary in this case.
:p:

Bottom line - check those stops before you start reassembling your trim panel.

Ed :seeya


[Modified by Patches, 1:40 PM 3/10/2002]

 

Thanks for the follow up/tip. I plan on buying the Husrt shortly. Is this mentioned in any of the product literature?

Tom



[Modified by AFVETTE, 8:23 AM 3/10/2002]

 

The instructions tell you how to adjust and tighten the stops. Apparently, I didn't tighten enough.

 

BTW your tutorial/pictorial was one on the best I've seen on the forum. It provided me the reinforcement I needed to attempt this myself. I'm looking forward to installing the Hurst.

I'll be adding the momo AirRace ****, but where do I buy the Ken King boot?

Tom

 

I ordered mine directly from Ken King(Vette Essentials) Make sure to tell them "short boot"

 

Ordered my Hurst yesterday!

I will be sure and use the locktite on the stops.

Thanks!

 

Do you think the boot is necessary for the Hurst? Not like it is that expensive... just curious. And like you said, do you even have to use the stops in the Hurst kit? Is there a benefit to using those stops? :)

Patrick :smash:

 

The short boot is not necessary, just an appearance consideration. You can modify the stock boot if you don't mind cutting into it or just leave the stock boot as is. It just bunches up a bit with the shorter Hurst.

As far as the stops, I don't think it makes any difference whether or not you use them. I had them retracted so they were non-functional on initial install anyway. The instructions have you adjust them so they don't touch - I suppose they're there to prevent over-travel during aggressive shifting.

Don't the latest Rippers come sans stops now?

Ed


[Modified by Patches, 2:15 PM 3/10/2002]

 

Yeah, B&M eliminated theirs, probably in one attempt to minimize vibration problems. The stops are meant to take excessive loading off of the linkage and internal parts, keeping it at the shifter. But the downside is chance of vibration if too tight against the stick, and also stop loosening can occur as seen here. The true value is of course subject to debate but when used properly, stops will reduce the wear/damage to internal shift components, and perhaps mean a cheaper bill at rebuild time. I wouldn't really consider them critical, just a matter of personal preference. Loctite on the stop threads and locknut upon installation is a good idea. If you don't want to use them, simply remove them, no harm done.

Chris

 

Thanks for the clarification and added information, Chris. :cheers:

 

:yesnod: Locktite, thank you. :smash:

 

Thanks so much for the warning. I plan to use the Loctite route when Hurst shifters become available.

 

I just installed mine, ( thanks again RG):D can I just take off the boot and get at those nuts? I know I did them up tight but a little locktite is good insurance. Also I got brave and shortened my own boot and it does look good and it works great. It's no Ken King boot but it works.

 

If you pull the boot up you'll see that you can't get to the nuts of the isolator without taking the dang trim off. And, you can't get to the stops without taking the isolator off, so you do have to take the trim panel and console off.

 

Hmmm, I forgot about that isolator. I think I will gamble that I did them tight enough, I do remember thinking, "careful I don't want to strip this nut" I will probably find out, three thousand miles into my trip to Bowling Green for cruise-in 3 that I didn't do them tight enough! :rolleyes: :D :D


[Modified by racer44, 8:17 PM 3/10/2002]

 

Hmmm, I think I will gamble that I did them tight enough, I do remember thinking, "careful I don't want to strip this nut" I will probably find out, three thousand miles into my trip to Bowling Green for cruise-in 3 that I didn't do them tight enough! :rolleyes: :D :D