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how hard is it to do with the engine still in the car and what ones would you guys recommend. I've read the horror stories with the '98's having issues with them at higher RPM's and i want to look into doing them before i have a problem. Thanks~Cole~
how hard is it to do with the engine still in the car and what ones would you guys recommend. I've read the horror stories with the '98's having issues with them at higher RPM's and i want to look into doing them before i have a problem. Thanks~Cole~
I did this several years ago, and it was a lot of work. The engine had to be supported with a hoist, and the front crossmember had to be removed. Simply removing the crossmember required disconnecting the lower control arms, tie rods, sway bar endlinks, steering hydraulic lines, steering shaft, brake lines and wire harnesses. Once thats done, the oil pan, oil pick-up, and windage tray can come off. THEN you can change the bolts out. I used ARP bolts which they recommend tightening to a given stretch value (I think it was .006"), rather than just torquing them down. This required using a special stretch gauge, which is a major PITA to use upside down under the car. It was a boatload of work. If you like messing around in the garage fixing what aint broke, go for it...otherwise, I'd take a big pass on this project.
i have access to a locl dealers stretch guage which attaches to the socket extension. But i think i will pass and pick up a 6.0 block and build that and wait for this one to pop It just makes me nervous with some of the horror stories i've read
Last edited by ColeTrain'sC5; Mar 8, 2010 at 09:33 AM.