99 FRC slave cylinder replacement
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh PA
99 FRC slave cylinder replacement
Hello Everyone. I got a 99 FRC (53,xxx miles) and im guessing the slave cylinder went out, clutch pedal went to the floor and theres a small puddle on the ground where the front of the torque tube meets the rear of the motor.
Im gonna put it on the lift and check it out this weekend and proceed to take it apart, i have an extended clutch bleeder line from RPM to put on it and i got cajunduds step by step on how to take everything out.
My my question is for those of you that might of done this before.
Is there anything else i should look to do or watch out for?
I heard the shifter needs realigned after its taken out?
also I heard when taking the axles out of the rear end if they don't go back in on the exact same splines they were on it will cause vibrations?
I just want to make sure i got everything covered so this will go as smooth as possible since this is the first time im gonna actually be doing some series wrenching on this car
Thanks
Eric
Im gonna put it on the lift and check it out this weekend and proceed to take it apart, i have an extended clutch bleeder line from RPM to put on it and i got cajunduds step by step on how to take everything out.
My my question is for those of you that might of done this before.
Is there anything else i should look to do or watch out for?
I heard the shifter needs realigned after its taken out?
also I heard when taking the axles out of the rear end if they don't go back in on the exact same splines they were on it will cause vibrations?
I just want to make sure i got everything covered so this will go as smooth as possible since this is the first time im gonna actually be doing some series wrenching on this car
Thanks
Eric
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,151
Likes: 67
From: Mechanicsburg PA
Is the differential seeping any oil? Its a very common problem. If so, now's the time to replace the seals. The quick connect on the hose from the master cylinder to the slave can be a beetch to get loose so you may want to get the special tool to do it, a fuel hose disconnect tool will actually work and can be had from Sears or an Auto Parts store for pretty cheap. You don't need to pull the the shifter out of the TT, only time you'd do that is if you are separating the transmission from the TT. You do have to remove the center console inside the car and all the bolts around the shifter. The splines don't need to line up when you reassemble - I've done this several times and never worried about that.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,793
Likes: 7
From: Santa Maria Ca.
Change the pilot bearing while you're in there-,and be careful of it when reinstalling the TT-I wasn't,so I got to do the job twice.
I went with a kevlar pilot bushing,instead of the oem needle bearing-they're pretty much idiot proof,and I needed that,apparently.
When dropping the drivetrain,be careful of the gob of fuel/brake lines that GM strategically placed directly below the shifter mount on the TT-if they get hung up ,you'll tweak the snot out of them-slip a wide putty knife or a 4"wide piece of sheetmetal between the shifter mount and the gob,so it slides over them,and you won't have any problems.
Removing the shifter will make this easier-not absolutely necessary,just makes it easier.
And be careful of the brake lines under the axles-they like to grab the end of the axle as it goes by,and you DON'T want to break one of these lines.
(they are remarkably flexible,though,and do bend back into position fairly easily,just in case you straighten one out a bit)
Also,have about a grand sitting around so when you find out how much work the procedure is,and you start thinking how easy it would be to do a clutch right now,you won't have to spend the rent money on one...
I went with a kevlar pilot bushing,instead of the oem needle bearing-they're pretty much idiot proof,and I needed that,apparently.
When dropping the drivetrain,be careful of the gob of fuel/brake lines that GM strategically placed directly below the shifter mount on the TT-if they get hung up ,you'll tweak the snot out of them-slip a wide putty knife or a 4"wide piece of sheetmetal between the shifter mount and the gob,so it slides over them,and you won't have any problems.
Removing the shifter will make this easier-not absolutely necessary,just makes it easier.
And be careful of the brake lines under the axles-they like to grab the end of the axle as it goes by,and you DON'T want to break one of these lines.
(they are remarkably flexible,though,and do bend back into position fairly easily,just in case you straighten one out a bit)
Also,have about a grand sitting around so when you find out how much work the procedure is,and you start thinking how easy it would be to do a clutch right now,you won't have to spend the rent money on one...
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 21,766
Likes: 25
From: The artist formally known as NONO5.0 Mobile, Al
Good advice above 
I remember when I first was looking to do this, I saw the pics and thought "NO WAY am I about to do that!" 
but actually its pretty easy. As already been covered, fix any rear diff leaks you might have; you don't have to worry about the axel shaft alignment; replace the pilot bearing and might as well look into replacing the clutch while your there! The only REAL PITA issues I had was the "quick disconnect" ( I have NO IDEA why they call it that!) for the slave/master (Even with the correct tool, I ended up getting a new master and cutting the old slave cable out) and the other thing that has also been mentioned, is when you re-install the torque tube to make sure the wiring harness ISN'T pinched in between. 
I remember when I first was looking to do this, I saw the pics and thought "NO WAY am I about to do that!" but actually its pretty easy. As already been covered, fix any rear diff leaks you might have; you don't have to worry about the axel shaft alignment; replace the pilot bearing and might as well look into replacing the clutch while your there! The only REAL PITA issues I had was the "quick disconnect" ( I have NO IDEA why they call it that!) for the slave/master (Even with the correct tool, I ended up getting a new master and cutting the old slave cable out) and the other thing that has also been mentioned, is when you re-install the torque tube to make sure the wiring harness ISN'T pinched in between.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,276
Likes: 227
From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
done this 100x
axles? pop out, pop in, index?? no.
shifter realign? YES. use punch or the L pin that is sitting in your OEM shifter base from GM, push into hole, DONE, 10 seconds
Tricks to make the job better? NOTE, slave line indexing, shift arm from trans in correct location on install, fuel lines out of way, harness properly aligned on install
the above 4 items watched 100% will make for a great day and allow multiple beer consumption by sunset(....AFTER, you have tested the car)
axles? pop out, pop in, index?? no.
shifter realign? YES. use punch or the L pin that is sitting in your OEM shifter base from GM, push into hole, DONE, 10 seconds
Tricks to make the job better? NOTE, slave line indexing, shift arm from trans in correct location on install, fuel lines out of way, harness properly aligned on install
the above 4 items watched 100% will make for a great day and allow multiple beer consumption by sunset(....AFTER, you have tested the car)
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh PA
Thanks for all the tips and info everyone
i was also looking into maybe checking out the factory pilot bearing and maybe replacing it with a pilot bushing? i read a few stories how the factory bearing could fall apart and chew up the input shaft on the torque tube.
i think my buddy has the tool to disconnect the line from the slave cylinder if not my other buddy has a snap-on tool truck in his driveway in case of an emergancy
other than that i got the car on the lift and im gonna slowly tear into it tomorrow and throughout the weekend.
i was also looking into maybe checking out the factory pilot bearing and maybe replacing it with a pilot bushing? i read a few stories how the factory bearing could fall apart and chew up the input shaft on the torque tube.
i think my buddy has the tool to disconnect the line from the slave cylinder if not my other buddy has a snap-on tool truck in his driveway in case of an emergancy
other than that i got the car on the lift and im gonna slowly tear into it tomorrow and throughout the weekend.
