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So I keep seeing these adjustable master cylinders (I.E. Tickshift) for massive amounts of money. I can go to autozone and get a master cylinder for $74 yet these other companies want $300 for theirs. Looking at theirs, the only thing that seems adjustable is the connecting rod. Seeing how that will only adjust the pedal placement (cylinder still displaces the exact same volume), are these even worth it?
So I keep seeing these adjustable master cylinders (I.E. Tickshift) for massive amounts of money. I can go to autozone and get a master cylinder for $74 yet these other companies want $300 for theirs. Looking at theirs, the only thing that seems adjustable is the connecting rod. Seeing how that will only adjust the pedal placement (cylinder still displaces the exact same volume), are these even worth it?
The stock master can be modified to be adjustable. Use the search funtion and you will find a DIY on how to do it. Read this thread and decide for yourself on whether or not to use one of these devices.
the tick also has a heat wrapped tube that goes from the master to the slave with a larger bore on the slave side (where as some would drill their stock one out aka drill mod)
the tick also has a heat wrapped tube that goes from the master to the slave with a larger bore on the slave side (where as some would drill their stock one out aka drill mod)
Could you please explain how the tick master cylinder achieves "a larger bore on the slave side" and what does drilling out the slave cylinder inlet orifice have to do with any of this?
theres a restriction in the line at the quick disconnect on the master side on the stock stuff...some people drill this out...there is no neck down in size on the tick heat wrapped line...the bore of the master is larger and not plastic
theres a restriction in the line at the quick disconnect on the master side on the stock stuff...some people drill this out...there is no neck down in size on the tick heat wrapped line...the bore of the master is larger and not plastic
The outside diameter of the hydraulic fluid supply line is inconsequential on how this system works. The supply line orifice is there to reduce drive line shock when dumping the clutch. You can wrap your existing supply line if you feel the need to. The stock master cylinder can be modified to make it adjustable if one needs to re-locate the pedal position. The link to the thread in post number number three shows what can happen when you try to introduce more fluid volume into the slave cylinder than is required to disengage the clutch.
This device is not worth the risk in my opinion, if you have an aftermarket clutch that does not fully disengage with the stock hydraulics the safest and most reliable way to correct this is to mechanically set the slave cylinder's maximum travel by shimming it.
I hate to bump an old thread, but I want to correct some misinformation.
Originally Posted by RandomTask
So I keep seeing these adjustable master cylinders (I.E. Tickshift) for massive amounts of money. I can go to autozone and get a master cylinder for $74 yet these other companies want $300 for theirs. Looking at theirs, the only thing that seems adjustable is the connecting rod. Seeing how that will only adjust the pedal placement (cylinder still displaces the exact same volume), are these even worth it?
Our kit allows you to adjust the amount of fluid the system flows by a significant amount, which in turn guarantees that you'll be able to fully disengage any clutch. Our kit will have a slightly more stiff, slightly shorter pedal that will be quicker to shift and easier to modulate. Many customers have reported back that our Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder Kit is the best modification they've done to their cars. As mentioned, our kit includes a heat wrapped, unrestricted line as well. It is pricey compared to a stock unit (or RAM, which is a stock unit made "adjustable"), but in this case you're comparing apples to meteorites.
Let's be clear: there is no way to significantly increase fluid flow by modifying the stock master cylinder. Our kit uses a Tilton Master Cylinder with a bigger bore than the stock unit, which allows it to flow a TON more fluid.
When installed correctly via our instructions, there is no chance of damaging either the GM Slave or any clutch pressure plate.