I had the dreaded column lock issue last fall just before storing the car for the winter. I immediately installed the CLB bypass and jumpered the relay in the passenger footwell because the dealer recall was previously done. I then sent my PCM to ECS for their mail order tune and Chris bumped my fuel shutoff up from 2mph. I'm just prepping the car to take it back out and suddenly I get the pull key wait 10 secs warning. My column lock motor doesn't actuate anymore and my fuel shouldn't shut off but why am I still getting this message. I checked my battery and it showed 12.4 on a handheld multimeter. I cleared my codes. What else could be causing this? Thanks.

 

It's not reading your key well, do you have another key? It may also be the ignition switch itself.

 

I do have another key but it doesn't do it every time so it's hard to tell. I will try to get the message with my other key tho.

 

My 2000 coupe does the same thing I just put key in twice and go on my way. My key is not the problem had it checked when it first happened.

 

It's not the key, I just tried both and it took awhile but it got the message with both keys. Anything else?

 

I have this problem as well, like mentioned above I just turn the key twice when starting to get to the "Service Column Lock" message so I can clear it. The CLB doesn't make a difference on my car. Like you I just had the fuel cutoff turned up so it doesn't matter. I would be curious to know if there is a fix it gets old having to turn the key twice.

 

If your still getting the message you have somewhere in the loop something else that has been done to the car that your unaware of. The dealers had many variations (5, I believe) with many different combinations within those variations to try to resolve the Column Lock issues. All it takes is one thing overlooked and you will still get the message. My recommendation is try to get your car fully back to stock before the dealer messed with it! Seriously. Remove the "K" harness if it was put in. For you: Don't bypass any relays. Remove them completely out of the loop. The car needs to go back to its original form before putting the CLB in to work at its full potential and to remove any pesky "pull key and wait 10 second messages". Also believe it or not, the dealer may have messed around with the original computer OS (software) that runs your car. If they did and changed some parameters, it too can be the cause of giving you the message. Easiest way there is to talk to your tuner and find out if they can bring up when the computer was last time "flashed" and what the current OS is on your car. If it is an older OS or one that doesn't match the year of your car, then chances are it was flashed and anything is possible as to what the dealer loaded in on it. If your tuner completely reflashed your computer and loaded a new updated OS or at least the OS that is suppose to be on your car, then your all set with no worries. Some tuners do this, some don't and just use the current OS and reprogram your settings to tune the car. Oh props to Chuck Cow who explained this to me cause I had no idea! It took him about an hour to find my OS on the car and it was way....way....messed up from an original tuner who had my car first.

Hope this helps.
Jeff

 

I get this message after the battery has been re-connected or the battery gets too low. I have learned to keep it charged.

 

8VETTE7: I am actually only quoting what I was told. When I notified my GM dealer of my column lock last year, he said that my car had never been in for service and that the first attempt was to actually to re-flash the computer and change settings on it. Maybe the service tech didn't know what he was talking about but he did mention 2 protocols were to change the fuel cutoff to 2 mph (which we all know they very well can do) and to install the "K" harness. In addition if further work was needed he said they would then have to reflash the computer again and also remove the collar from the column. I as you can tell researched the matter very VERY well and decided NOT to go to the dealer. So glad I did and kept them away from my car. This is the one thing after reading everything I have read, that the dealer is 100% wrong on for fixing! (IMHO) They just bubble gum the problem.

Just didn't want people to think I was making this up. Oh your more then throrough explanation of the different year OS's is dead on accurate as to what Chuck told me.

You are correct about the battery too. I figured he was close enough with the voltages but yes very well picked up on. An old or faulty battery will set this warning off as well as a bad or dirty key. (which the OP believes he has ruled out)

OP: how old is your battery? and double check what 8VETTE7 is talking about in regards to the bypass. I still stand by my original thinking of "remove anything GM did to it first" as this is what was passed on to me which made complete sense. Better safe then sorry is my logic to it. These cars are so picky when it comes to electrical things.

 

Unfortunatley that is the drawback of doing the GM recall #2 and higher prior to just installing the CLB. You will have to press reset each time you see it.

 

I'm just heading in for a night shift in a couple of minutes. I will charge my battery in the morning and see if the problem is still there. I will post what I find. Thanks for all the insight.

 

Try this one.... With the key OFF....


Go to the fusebox under the passenger floor mat and remove fuses #25, 27 and 29.

Leave them out for 1 minute and then re install them.

That should work.

If not, let me know.

Chuck CoW

 

Here's the update. I removed my battery and put it on a charger today. When charged, I put it in the car. Yesterday it only took at most 8-10 tries to get the "pull key" message to come up. I just tried it about 55 times and couldn't involk the message. I don't know for sure if the issue is gone but it's better than it was.

When I put the battery on the charger it was at 12.1 volts. I removed it at 12.7 volts but within minutes it dropped to around 12.46 volts. I am going to get the battery load tested but due to the rapid drop in voltage I am thinking that my battery may be dying.

 

The drastic drop in voltage was with the battery out of the car, so I know nothing in the car was draining the voltage. I think I better plan on buying a new battery.