I want to get rid of that "off road gap", but don't know how low will be enough. Any recomendations is much appreciated.

 

I went the full travel of the factory bolts. It dropped 1" and made all the difference in eliminating that look. :)

 

see sig :D

 

2000^C5 how low is your car? Did you remove the bolts in the front or did you remove them?

Thanks

 

I've lowered mine about 3/4" but i sure hate those front end spoilers scraping my curbs when I back out in the morning. Guess I'm gonna need to lower my curbs too. :yesnod:

 

I never measured how low it is, I did not rmove the bolts in the front, the way I got it so low was by adding HAL adjustable shcoks. :cheers:

 

Go as low as you dare! :D

 

Go lower... but if your car is a daily driver like mine... dont slam it... unless you want a yearly re-paint...

 

im wanting to lower mine slightly also..maybe a inch or so..is there a kit or can it be done from stock componets already on the car?

 

Did mine from the instructions in "tech tips" and adjusted the factory bolts as per those instructions. I can just get a floor jack under it. Lowering it that much and the Z51 bars give me full control of the F1 tires, yet easy ride from the stock FE1 suspension. Drags the front spoilers once in a while but hasn't hurt them.

 

I went 5/8" all around. Basically I followed the Techtips section EXACTLY and got about 5/8". I could go a little lower (perhaps another 1/4"), but I'm happy with it like it is; not too low, yet not the "off-roader" look of stock. Took perhaps an hour.
Now- I had SERIOUS tire wear issues after I lowered it. The inside of the tire wore a LOT more than the outside, so I HIGHLY RECOMMEND an alignment afterwards. Mine could have been a freak accident, but better safe than sorry.

 

Here's a comparison of my 1" drop, before and after:

BEFORE:


AFTER:


It was just enough for me to avoid major scraping. I would have gone lower but my air dams are already touching on a lot of the entrance/exits of dipped parking lots and driveways. I did get an alignment afterwards.

 

Patches,
that is a nice difference! :cheers:

 

Mine is about as low as you are gonna get! :yesnod:
I do agree, if you are using it as a daily driver I would not lower it this low.
If you go as far as the stock bolts allow,you will get about an inch, which is practical, if you want the "slammed" look, I added longer bolts in the rear, and removed the bolts all together in the front. May not be the most practical, but sure looks killer!!! :cool:

 

It seems that the raer end lowered more than the front. Is this normal ??? Its almost like I got an inch in the rear and about a half inch in the front ??? Anybody else have this problem/or a solution ??? Thanks....John

 

I haven't lowered mine yet. I am going to start at 1" and take it from there. I want to drop it as far as I can but I still want to be able to drive it. :smash: :smash: :smash:

 

Depends on which pool table you plan on driving! :lol:

 

First of all...mine is so low I can hardly get 1 1/2 Finders in between the wheel and the fender.


But...what everybody seems to forget, we are facing several problems, and that's concerning all of us with lowered C5's.

1) There are NO shortened shocks for our babies available. Why do we need shorter shocks you ask? By lowering the car we moved the "amplitude"or travel area of your internal shock parts up. Instead of riding in the middle section of your tube it rides at the upper limit, even bottoming out and hitting the gas-cap/bump-stop. The result will be that we hit the cap that seperates the oil from the gas in Monotube shocks. Resulting in a premature death due to leakage etc. By then you have to get new shocks, install, repeat. Been there, just done that today.

2) We change the supsensions geometrie. Now, I'm no C5 expert, but it is only natural that when you change all in angles in your suspension, you will end up, even when the car, while sitting on the ground, is perfectly aligned, with performance that is sub stock (only when lowered too far, that is....how low is too low? Dunno....I'm just raising a few points here).
See...we go to Alignements-r-us, the car sits on the lift and the align it for us to our/their specs. But already or now-neutral alignement sits 1 inch or more closer to the fender, meaning further up (excuse me..I'm German and I'm putting up quite the fight to get my English right..and what rhymes is good). Our neutral wheel position already is (compared to the rest of the car.chassis) where it would be when fully compressed. But then we take our C5 out on the road the suspension will be, depending what kind of turn you make, compressed even further exact at that point of time when it is supposed to work the best, when cornering. Not what GM had in mind, especially when it comes to fools like me who removed the front adjustment bolt all together and took more than 2 inches out.

3) The scraping? Best part to get is the skid guard. It is available through some of our vendors here at the forum mall and it rocks! It has small wheels build into a bracket and you will, instead of grinding over, smoothly roll over any obstacle, whatever the speed.

4) I used to work for Bilstein in Germany, only for a short 4 months, but since my family's business is one of their suppliers as well (how do you think I did get that dream-job in the first place, hehehe) I was able to pull some strings and I got them to manufacture....sit tight....PSS9 Coil Overs!!!

I hoooked them up with a southern Cali vette shop and Bilstein in Ennepetal/Germany will add the coil-overs to their to-do list in April!
Don't expect them to be available until the end of the year though.

These will be ( as PSS9 implies) adjustable when it comes to bound/rebound, in 9 steps....unique design when it comes to coil-over shocks for the C5/Z06!!

Cheers,

Goetz


[Modified by Der Goetz, 12:30 AM 3/15/2002]