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On my 99 C5 automatic my shift indicator next to the gear shifter that tells me if I am in Park or Reverse etc, does not light up anymore. I checked all the fuses. Any suggestions?
On my 99 C5 automatic my shift indicator next to the gear shifter that tells me if I am in Park or Reverse etc, does not light up anymore. I checked all the fuses. Any suggestions?
I changed mine a couple of months ago using a tip picked up here from a forum member. Use a very small flat head screwdriver and gently pry up the plastic piece with the "P N D etc" Remove old bulb. Install new one. Should only take a couple of minutes.
Anybody know the wire colors for the bulb. I unhooked the "park solenoid" a while back and the connector also supplied power to the bulb. I'd like to go back in and connect only the bulb.
Hey egrand I did exactly what you said and it was easy. My fingers were too big to pull out/put in the bulb so I had to use needle nose pliers. It works perfect. Thank yall for your help.
Anybody know the wire colors for the bulb. I unhooked the "park solenoid" a while back and the connector also supplied power to the bulb. I'd like to go back in and connect only the bulb.
Thanks
Old thread, but same question. I am in the same boat now.
I am attaching a diagram I made of that same connector based on what I see - the incoming harness wiring matches your diagram.
The question is which wires would I need to reconnect to get my PRDN123 lettering to light up again (when I open the door, night driving, etc.)? Maybe the Grey wire and perhaps the black wire? (I am no electrician). If I could figure this out, I thought maybe I could just remove the pins from the connector I no longer use for the solenoid and just plug the connector back in? Not sure if that is a good plan?
I am attaching a diagram I made of that same connector based on what I see - the incoming harness wiring matches your diagram.
The question is which wires would I need to reconnect to get my PRDN123 lettering to light up again (when I open the door, night driving, etc.)? Maybe the Grey wire and perhaps the black wire? (I am no electrician). If I could figure this out, I thought maybe I could just remove the pins from the connector I no longer use for the solenoid and just plug the connector back in? Not sure if that is a good plan?
Any reason why you do not disconnect the connector from the solenoid and be done with it? I assume you do not want to dig into the shifter more, else this would solve the issue. Another path is to just remove the brown wire contact from the shifter receptacle and plug it back up.
Last edited by lucky131969; Sep 17, 2025 at 09:01 AM.
Any reason why you do not disconnect the connector from the solenoid and be done with it? I assume you do not want to dig into the shifter more, else this would solve the issue. Another path is to just remove the brown wire contact from the shifter receptacle and plug it back up.
You are correct, I have had the entire connector unplugged for several days now and that appears to have bypassed the sticking solenoid issue.
The reason I resurrected this thread from 2010 (rather than start a new topic) is because vett79 in his post #7 above asked the same question back then (with no answer). He had simply unplugged his connector but then discovered that his gear selector indicator letters (PRND123) no longer lit up at night on the shifter (unintended consequence of unplugging entire connector). We both wanted to just deactivate the defective solenoid, not all the other functionality the connector provided.
You are correct, I have had the entire connector unplugged for several days now and that appears to have bypassed the sticking solenoid issue.
The reason I resurrected this thread from 2010 (rather than start a new topic) is because vett79 in his post #7 above asked the same question back then (with no answer). He had simply unplugged his connector but then discovered that his gear selector indicator letters (PRND123) no longer lit up at night on the shifter (unintended consequence of unplugging entire connector). We both wanted to just deactivate the defective solenoid, not all the other functionality the connector provided.
I re-read your question. I think you are asking why I don't just disconnect the electrical connection on the solenoid itself as opposed to just disconnecting the 4-pin connector? That might be the better solution for me - I had not seen that suggested in my research.
I re-read your question. I think you are asking why I don't just disconnect the electrical connection on the solenoid itself as opposed to just disconnecting the 4-pin connector? That might be the better solution for me - I had not seen that suggested in my research.