I have an 03 vert
my HUD is usually set to RPM, MPH and fuel
however, the last 2 days it has been changing its display while im driving. when it happened a few months ago i was able to push "page" and make it go back to what i wanted. so i just passed if off as a fluke. but now - it has a mind of its own. sometimes it will cycle between the 3 that i want for a while then stop on one of them. other times it will just change while driving and set itself to whatever it chooses (stuck on RPM at the moment)
hitting "page" does nothing.

can somebody please give advice on this?
thanks

 

its a fairly new battery - 5 months

 

If you feel it's worth the trouble, try disconnecting the HUD controls inside the console. It could be that the circuit is shorting internally and sending a signal to change the HUD.

I'd also trace the bundle and make sure that none of the wires has the insulation worn down.

 

anyone?

 

Pull your codes and post them. Be sure to include the H or C after the number.

To enter the Diagnostic Display function perform the following steps in order:
1. Turn ON the ignition switch, engine OFF.
2. Press the RESET button to acknowledge any warning messages present.
3. Press the OPTIONS button on the Driver Information Center (DIC) and hold.
4. While holding the OPTIONS button press the FUEL button 4 times within a 10 second period.
5. System will first enter automatic display mode followed by the manual display mode.
The automatic display feature allow you to read each module DTC display function in an automatic display sequence. Each system module DTC will be displayed for 3 seconds followed by a 1 second pause before the next DTC is displayed in an automatic sequence. If no DTC information is sent to the IPC from the system currently displayed on the IPC, the IPC will display NO CODES for that system. At any time during the automatic display function, the manual display feature can be activated by pressing any button on the DIC except the E/M 5 button. The E/M 5 button is used to completely exit the DIAGNOSTICS mode at any time. If there is a communications problem between any system, the IPC will display NO COMM when the IPC is trying to communicate with that system. When all DTCs have been displayed for all systems, the IPC will display NO MORE CODES for 2 seconds then will enter the manual display mode, waiting for manual mode operation.

The manual display feature allows you to manually select each module DTC display function. The manual mode will automatically be entered after the automatic DTC display sequence is complete, or can be entered at any time during the automatic mode by pressing any button on the DIC except the E/M 5 (E/M 5 button is used to exit the DIAGNOSTIC mode at any time). When the manual mode is selected, the IPC will display the MANUAL DIAGNOSTICS mode message for 2 seconds, or until any button on the DIC except the E/M 5 is pressed. After the MANUAL DIAGNOSTICS mode message is displayed, the IPC will display the first system abbreviation and quantity of codes stored for that system, then the IPC will wait for further instructions. The buttons on the DIC provide the following functions when operating the on-board diagnostic feature in the manual mode:

DIC Button Function
FUEL 1 Previous DTC
GAGES 2 Next DTC
TRIP 3 Previous System
OPTIONS 4 Next System
E/M 5 Exit Diagnostics
RESET Clear DTCs

 

Kim so all you are seeing is the RPM and nothing else?

 

i actually had not thought to run the codes since nothing came up in the DIC. i'll be sure to do that
depends. on the way home today it was MPH and fuel. earlier in the morning it was just scrolling and it stopped on MPH only
last night it was just RPM only

 

ok - as i figured - no codes

 

I was experiencing the same problem. I have an Optima (red top) that's exactly 6 yrs old. My car has gone from a daily driver, to an occasional driver since retirement. In checking I found the Optima to be delivering around 10 volts (engine off). With the ignition key off check the voltmeter reading, mine was pretty accurate at 10 volts) I replaced the battery today and all's well. I bought a conventional battery as the Optima had doubled in price to almost $200.00! I was told this was because the military was buying them up for the war. I'm reconcidering my purchase and may return the battery and purchase the Optima. I hate to risk the possibility of electrolyte damage but $200.00 seems a bit much. The "Red Top" gave me 6 yrs. of trouble free service so I guess it's worth it.

 

hmm. so ya'll think it might be the battery? i'll check that tomm. thanks

 

My guess would be that there is something causing the page button circuit to intermitantly activate somewhere. Maybe corrosion in a connector or circuit board, something wrong with the switch itself? Bill Curlee please step in!

 

I'm thinking about Bill Curlee's post on the wire in the doorjam accordian tube that will short to ground. Wire is the serial data circuit.

 

this morning's observations to ponder:

i turned the key to accessory and set the DIC to battery volt reading; it read 12.0; watched the HUD cycle through the 3 options that i like. i let it cycle and it finally stopped on all 3.
next, i turned the car on and the HUD stayed the same and the battery was reading 14.1 (what happened to the 14.4 that it used to read?)
i drive to work (4.5 miles) watching the HUD and DIC alternately (good thing traffic was light)
heres my battery readings within 1 mile:
14.1 14.0 14.1 13.9 14.0 13.9
then.... it drops to 13.7 and i look up at the HUD and i lose the fuel option
the battery cotinued to read between 13.8 and 14.1 the rest of the drive and nothing on the HUD changed

anybody?....................

 

just went out to check those wires/tube.
the large rectangular black accordian tube that encloses the wires is clean and firmly in place. it shows no damage. i do not want to try to get it off/moved here at work without tools and proper time. can i assume that the wires inside would be in as good shape as the tube? or should i go ahead and inspect that tonight?
i didnt look at the tube very closely, is there a tip to removing it?

 

The accordian always looks fine,it doesnt have a thing to do with the condition of the wires inside it. I also suspect the HUD switch assm or a ground problem.

 

thank you

 

The IPC is the interface for the data received, and the HUD. The IPC does not communicate with the HUD via class 2 serial, so I don't think you have any problems in the door wiring.....especially because...if you did, you would have a host of issues to contend with.

The Dimmer/HUD display switch plugs right into the IPC, and the IPC tells the HUD what to do/display, etc. I also find it hard to believe, that a questionable battery would affect just the operation of the HUD display page, and affect nothing else in turn.

 

well..... hmmm. odd tho that im not getting any codes for the IPC. do you think i would be getting SOMEthing on it?

either way - i bought a voltmeter just now and i'll check things out like 8vette7 said. after that... i dunno what comes after that

 

checking battery voltage is fine, but you are not having any other issues. Considering how sensitive C5 systems are, the chance you having a battery, that ONLY affects the HUD......is slim and none.

My approach would be to determine if there is an issue with the page switch itself, or the IPC is doing this all on it's own.

 

i have to take the dash apart AGAIN?????? please tell me there is another way