Hi,

I've read many threads about the HVAC door problems.. but many threads go unresolved.

I read the EXCELLENT writeup on how to remove and re-align the actuators.

On my 98 with dual-zone, I'm getting 0361, 0363, and 0441 codes, intermittent at first, but full time now. I also get a clicking (about 2 per second) of the door unless I crank the temp **** to 90 degrees. I assume the controller is repeatedly trying to close (or open) the door??

I read somewhere that the 2001 and newer control units have a software fix for the door warp problem..??? Is there a source for head units, and how much are they? Anyone have a success story for a head replacement?

Thank you for any insight.

 

clear the codes with the engine running
it's worked for me
you results may vary

 

Woo hoo! First time poster here. Sorry to here about your hvac codes. I bought a 1998 Coupe a month ago. A/C was not blowing cold. Had it charged with R134 and *pop* went the compressor seals. New compressor + install = $1,100. Mechanic said it should freeze me out, but sadly not the case. Driver's side was icy cold, but passenger side blew heat. Went into the DIC and got B0365, B0367, and B0446 codes (all passenger side actuator problems). Ordered a new actuator from amazon.com (AC Delco part) Searched the forums and discovered I had to remove the entire dash pad. Followed the instructions and took me 3 hours to install the new actuator (not a difficult job - just time consuming). A/C works great and no more codes. Opened up the old actuator and found the largest gear had broken.

 

Thanks bmkerrdog,

Yes I think that is what will be needed. I've done all the fuse pulling, code-clearing (with engine on, off, etc.) At first these "worked" for months, then weeks, then days.. now I can't clear the codes for more than 1 stop/start cycle. I'm probably looking at a broken gear in the actuator as well..

I've seen some debate on whether to just replace both actuators at once rather than sneak in on just the drivers side from below.. Also, I guess GM re-designed the actuator at some point to better handle the jam/stop condition?

Has anyone else had the constant 'clicking' of the actuator? Perhaps this is a symptom of a broken gear?
Also, I guess re-aligning the actuator is not required with the "new" actuator?

 

OK, well I tore into the project this weekend. I followed the instructions posted by JRVette in this post: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...actuators.html

A few additional helpful hints to future readers I would have liked to know:

1) While not rocket science, this is a tough job. This makes the CLB install seem like child's play! You spend a great deal of time with your head against the clutch pedal, wresting for a good position to work from

2) A wild mix of Torx, metric and US screws to remove. The last 2 holding the actuator are 3/16". The 7mm you've been using all along to get in there won't cut it - neither will the 6 mm you'll try next! Each time having to reposition your head under the clutch pedal!

3) You won't even see this thing until the last step. The "kick panel" is casually mentioned in the write up.. but it's the key to the whole project.. This is the black plastic panel that contains the driver-side courtesy light.

4) I had to fully remove the gold Bose box.. I could not get around it.

5) I did NOT have to remove the foam/metal knee panel.

So I finally got it out, and sure enough - I found a broken gear inside!

I have the actuator on order. I ordered the NEW redesigned actuator (PN 89018365).

Has anyone sucessfully used the replacement with a pre-2001 head unit? Do I need to think about re-indexing the NEW actuator?? I imagine if the blend door is warped, I will be in the same situation again soon???

Thanks,
Fred

 

TTT- Bueler? Anyone? I know there are several smart lurkers with experience out there!!

 

I'll post this in the hope that it may help someone in the future.

I purchased the new actuator (PN 89018365) from gmpartsdirect for $135. I installed it and put everything back together.

My codes are gone and everything seems to be working fine.

<fingers crossed>

 

Some more info for future readers:

After I replaced the actuator (which was clearly broken), the AC still blew hot on the drivers side, cold on the passenger. I bought a can of R134a and added most of it. Now things are all good.

If you're going to add R134a, be sure to get a can with a right angle connector as there is not enough room to use a straight one (hard lesson learned -- one of many on this problem!)

 

thanks SDVette -- I haven't had that problem yet but sure do appreciate threads that give the outcome -- thanks again

 

You are 100% right about the last two screws holding the actuator in place. It was not the least bit amusing when I found two standard screws after wrenching on the other twenty-five metric ones. Removing the whole dash pad was a pain. And my half drunk brother-in-law/"helper" broke one of the dash tabs. The real fun for me was removing the glove box. Something so simple, and yet so ridiculously irritating. At least I didn't have to hang upside down like a bat to pull my passenger side actuator out though. Glad you got it fixed. It's already pushing 95 degrees here in Tejas.

 

my understanding of the new design of the actuators is that it has stops built into it for the travel. it doesnt rely on the door itself to be a stop. if so that certainly makes sense that the new ones fix the warped door problem. can anyone confirm that?

 

subscribing

 

I had to replace my driver's side as well due to a cracked gear and the codes. I got one from rockauto at a substantial discount and inside, it looked identical. Seems to work just fine but a PITA to put in.

 

Did you have to disassemble the entire dash (like with the passenger side), or were you able to access it from beneath?

 

The procedures and info discussed in this thread all relate to the Driver's side only.. getting at it WITHOUT removing the dash (from beneath).

 

For what it's worth, I had problems/codes with my HVAC on the right side and even removed the actuator and checked for a broken gear.. Nothing found but it was suggested that I reheat the HVAC connector pins.

If your a bit handy with a soldering iron, take the control apart and reheat all the connector pins.. It fixed my control..