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Clutch Pedal Does Nothing.....

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Old May 5, 2010 | 12:48 AM
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Default Clutch Pedal Does Nothing.....

Ok so here is the story. 97 6 speed 61k on the clock. Stock everything except for a catback (not that it matters). I was driving the car today and I decided to get on it, Nailed it in first and started spinning then went to shift second and all I got was grinding. I then realized the clutch felt very different (Very easy to press) so I let it idle down and put it in neutral and shut it down. When in 1st with the clutch pushed when I go to start it the car rolls and then starts. So obviously the clutch is stuck engaged. I drove the car with no clutch about 1/4 mile to a parking lot (matching rpms) where my friend flat bedded me home. The car has been sitting for about 6 hours now and still no feeling in the clutch, just like nothing is there and its still stuck engaged. No leaking on the ground (haven't gone under the car yet as I have to much work to do atm). I did the ranger method clutch fluid change about a week ago because I noticed a sticking clutch after some 1 -2-3-4 pulls however the fluid is filthy again haha. So CF please with your plethora of knowledge help me. Anyone have any similar circumstances?
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Old May 5, 2010 | 01:19 AM
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How confident are you that you did not introduce air when changing the fluid? bleed it again.

if that fixes it, pretty much change it once a week until it is looking cleaner and functioning well.
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Old May 5, 2010 | 01:56 AM
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I did it by draining the resivour, refilling, and pumping clutch, then repeat. So I dont think I put any air in it... Once I get under the car i plan on doing it the right way lol. Thanks for the feedback.
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Old May 5, 2010 | 02:14 AM
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Yea redo it properly and if nothing else you can rule that out and move on from there.
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Old May 5, 2010 | 10:05 AM
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anyone?
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Old May 5, 2010 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by cptinjak
How confident are you that you did not introduce air when changing the fluid? bleed it again.
Because it was working fine after he changed the fluid. Did you read his post? Air doesn't wait until you speed shift to manifest symptoms in your hydraulics.

OP, I hate to say it, but you probably blew out the slave. This sounds very similar to what happened to me.
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Old May 5, 2010 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by wcsinx
Because it was working fine after he changed the fluid. Did you read his post? Air doesn't wait until you speed shift to manifest symptoms in your hydraulics.

OP, I hate to say it, but you probably blew out the slave. This sounds very similar to what happened to me.
Just saying, the issue occurs 1 week after he changes the fluid for the first time and it is not related somehow? Quite a coincidence, and it is easy/cheap enough to make sure the fluid is properly bled before tearing the driveline out.

Good news = slave/throwout are relatively cheap and only a couple hours of disassembly to get to them. Consider a new clutch/pp/resurfaced flywheel, along with a pilot bearing while you're in there. Fuel filter also perhaps.
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Old May 5, 2010 | 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by wcsinx
Because it was working fine after he changed the fluid. Did you read his post? Air doesn't wait until you speed shift to manifest symptoms in your hydraulics.

OP, I hate to say it, but you probably blew out the slave. This sounds very similar to what happened to me.
How easy is it to do a clutch in these cars? Does the whole drivetrain have to come out or can I pull the torque tube and get it from that way? Any how toos on a clutch swap? I have a lift in my garage and a decent amount of experience swapping rears and stuff in my jeep so Im sure i could do it with the right info haha.
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Old May 5, 2010 | 11:39 AM
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http://www.cajundude.com/dopeinstall.doc

I did it on jackstands. Probably 7 hours total, but I've had the driveline out before, and that likely sped things up knowing my way around a bit.
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Old May 5, 2010 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by wcsinx
Because it was working fine after he changed the fluid. Did you read his post? Air doesn't wait until you speed shift to manifest symptoms in your hydraulics.

OP, I hate to say it, but you probably blew out the slave. This sounds very similar to what happened to me.
my 97 did the same with 55k miles -- slave bad.
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Old May 5, 2010 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Ace14
How easy is it to do a clutch in these cars? Does the whole drivetrain have to come out or can I pull the torque tube and get it from that way? Any how toos on a clutch swap? I have a lift in my garage and a decent amount of experience swapping rears and stuff in my jeep so Im sure i could do it with the right info haha.
It's not technically difficult just very laborious. You have to drop the rear cradle to get the torque tube out, then it's a pretty straight forward clutch install after that. That writeup by Cajundude is really good. He covers most of the gotchas too. Give yourself a full weekend if you've never done it before.
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Old May 5, 2010 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by cptinjak
Just saying, the issue occurs 1 week after he changes the fluid for the first time and it is not related somehow? Quite a coincidence, and it is easy/cheap enough to make sure the fluid is properly bled before tearing the driveline out.
I would think it's much more coincidental that it happened within 0.3 seconds of nailing it in 1st and speed shifting to 2nd. But that's just me.

If there were enough air to cause a complete and total inoperability of the hydraulics, then he would've known that immediately, one week ago when he went for the first drive.
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Old May 5, 2010 | 06:43 PM
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UPDATE ..... So I put the car on my lift tonight after class and took a look. There was no leaks but inside the bellhousing was some tiny pieces of broken white plastic. I have yet to pull it apart but obviously I have to now. Im going to change the clutch while im in there...... any one have any recommendations for a clutch and what i should change while its all out....
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