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Head light and voltage problem

Old May 16, 2010 | 01:58 PM
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Default Head light and voltage problem

Hi, everyone. I have a 2001 C5 convertible. A while back I noticed my headlight door would not open until the car had run for a while. I thought it was the battery and replaced it with a new long live one. The problem would still happen occasionally. I started monitering the voltage on the dash indicator and found before starting the car it was registering between 11.1 to 11.6 volts. At that voltage the headlight would not pop up. Once I crank the car after a second the voltage would build to 14 volts and the headlight door works fine. I was wondering if anyone else has had a problem like this or could make a suggestion. Could the alternator be bad? I don't think so because of the 14volt reading after engine is running. Do I have a bad battery again that just can't handle the electrical load?

suggestions are welcome

Ralph
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Old May 22, 2010 | 11:36 AM
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Hey guys, this was the friend whom I also made a thread for concerning his electrical issues about a week ago here. Hopefully the C5 gurus can offer up some advice on a possible solution to his issues.
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Old May 23, 2010 | 09:14 AM
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I got rid of the pop-ups and went to the fixed DEPO lights. No more motor or pop-up problems. On Ebay DEPO projector lights are about $330 shipped. You can sell your pop-up lights for about the same. They are brighter with two projector lights.
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Old May 23, 2010 | 12:25 PM
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Thanks for your reply, but I like the pop up headlights and the lines are cleaner when they are closed. My motors are just fine and work well when the voltage is there around 12.9 to 14 volts. When I get in my car the voltage is around 11.1 to 11.6 volts, but quickly build to 13.9 to 14 volts once I start my engine.
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Old May 23, 2010 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by clarkrd
Thanks for your reply, but I like the pop up headlights and the lines are cleaner when they are closed. My motors are just fine and work well when the voltage is there around 12.9 to 14 volts. When I get in my car the voltage is around 11.1 to 11.6 volts, but quickly build to 13.9 to 14 volts once I start my engine.
Ah, we got another one for the team that likes the pop ups. It's a Corvette classic. Come on guys, put your heads together and help out one of our Corvette brethren.
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Old May 23, 2010 | 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by clarkrd
Thanks for your reply, but I like the pop up headlights and the lines are cleaner when they are closed. My motors are just fine and work well when the voltage is there around 12.9 to 14 volts. When I get in my car the voltage is around 11.1 to 11.6 volts, but quickly build to 13.9 to 14 volts once I start my engine.
Something is either pulling your battery down or you got a bad one. Make sure all your connections are clean and tight at both ends.

Just noticed you were reading this voltage from the dash. Check the battery with a DMM before you start the car.

Last edited by BigGun; May 23, 2010 at 05:50 PM.
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Old May 23, 2010 | 05:18 PM
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Have you installed HID bulbs? My resistor flaked on me and the car was exhibiting this type of behavior. JWmotoring promptly replaced the resistor and after I installed it all was well.
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Old May 23, 2010 | 07:27 PM
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Thanks BigGun. I have read the voltage with a Multimeter and it reads about the same as the dash meter.

Kevin G, I have not installed anyother bulbs except the stock bulbs. Anyway, what resistor are you talking about?
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Old May 24, 2010 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by clarkrd
Thanks BigGun. I have read the voltage with a Multimeter and it reads about the same as the dash meter.

Kevin G, I have not installed anyother bulbs except the stock bulbs. Anyway, what resistor are you talking about?
If your battery is reading that low(less than 12V) with no load you are going to have other problems. You need to get that taken care of asap. B\G
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Old May 24, 2010 | 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by mundo
I got rid of the pop-ups and went to the fixed DEPO lights. No more motor or pop-up problems. On Ebay DEPO projector lights are about $330 shipped. You can sell your pop-up lights for about the same. They are brighter with two projector lights.
Install fixed light assemblies? That's your suggestion?
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Old May 24, 2010 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by clarkrd
Hi, everyone. I have a 2001 C5 convertible. A while back I noticed my headlight door would not open until the car had run for a while. I thought it was the battery and replaced it with a new long live one. The problem would still happen occasionally. I started monitering the voltage on the dash indicator and found before starting the car it was registering between 11.1 to 11.6 volts. At that voltage the headlight would not pop up. Once I crank the car after a second the voltage would build to 14 volts and the headlight door works fine. I was wondering if anyone else has had a problem like this or could make a suggestion. Could the alternator be bad? I don't think so because of the 14volt reading after engine is running. Do I have a bad battery again that just can't handle the electrical load?

suggestions are welcome

Ralph
I notice you keep using the word "headlight"...as in single...not both. Are you having an issue with one or both lights coming up?
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Old May 24, 2010 | 12:38 PM
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Hi Luck131969,
Neither headlight will open when the car is first started. I have to wait for the voltage to build to at least 13 volts then everything operates fine. When I turn the lights off they retract normally.

thanks
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Old May 24, 2010 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by clarkrd
Hi Luck131969,
Neither headlight will open when the car is first started. I have to wait for the voltage to build to at least 13 volts then everything operates fine. When I turn the lights off they retract normally.

thanks
Do you have twilight sentinel? If so, how do the lights behave with it on?
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Old May 24, 2010 | 07:51 PM
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Thanks for your reply Lucky131968, As far as I know I do not have twilight sentinel.
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Old May 29, 2010 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin G
Have you installed HID bulbs? My resistor flaked on me and the car was exhibiting this type of behavior. JWmotoring promptly replaced the resistor and after I installed it all was well.
I have the same problem as the OP but it doesn't matter if the car is just "on" or running with 14V coming from the alternator - the headlights won't come up unless I pop the hood, turn the **** a couple times and then the motor can do the rest. Is this a resistor problem you mentioned? Where is this resistor?

Edit: Forgot to mention that I have the "light cannons" with HIDs installed.

Last edited by DizziD; May 29, 2010 at 05:11 PM.
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Old May 30, 2010 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by DizziD
I have the same problem as the OP but it doesn't matter if the car is just "on" or running with 14V coming from the alternator - the headlights won't come up unless I pop the hood, turn the **** a couple times and then the motor can do the rest. Is this a resistor problem you mentioned? Where is this resistor?

Edit: Forgot to mention that I have the "light cannons" with HIDs installed.
Sounds like your motor/motors is/are going out. What year is your car?
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Old May 30, 2010 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by TheRadioFlyer
Sounds like your motor/motors is/are going out. What year is your car?
I have a '98. I'm really hoping the motors aren't dying...

Perhaps I can install a relay on each side straight to the battery to see if that helps. Never looked at a wiring diagram for the motors though, i assume the headlight swtich is a switch to ground?
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Old May 30, 2010 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by DizziD
I have a '98. I'm really hoping the motors aren't dying...

Perhaps I can install a relay on each side straight to the battery to see if that helps. Never looked at a wiring diagram for the motors though, i assume the headlight swtich is a switch to ground?
other parts that might be causing the problem:
- headlight gears (teeth starting to fade)
- headlight control module
- Multifunction switch.

I'd say gears first. When the teeth on the plasic gear start to fade significantly, they will cause a lockup before making that annoying "grinding" sound
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