When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I installed the Ripper in my 99 coupe. I liked it a lot except for the rattle. I had the stock ****. I caulked the shift pattern cap and put wheel weights on the shaft which made it better.
I received the Hurst from RG at Exit28Motorsports (Thanks again for the fantastic deal RG!) I just installed it this afternoon and test drove it. It took me a little over an hour with no snags.
The Hurst does still make a slight vibration for me when I have my hand cupped on the **** when at full throttle sometimes. It seems quiter than my ripper was.
When I installed, I tried to pry the pin from the **** with two screwdrivers but it did not come out. I was also afraid if it did, it would go flying up into the roof. This is the most difficult part of the whole install. I ended up following the Hurst instructions. I used vice-grips and just rocked the grips from right to left until the pin pulled right out. To prep for the pin-pulling, I took a rag and cut a small hole in it and pushed the pin through the hole in the rag. This protected the shifter **** while leaving the pin easy to access.
In overview here are the things I notice:
1) My Hurst rattles less than my Ripper did.
2) It is easier to get into reverse with my Hurst than my Ripper.
3) They both feel about the same as far as the short throw and the crisp shifting.
4) I like having the shift stops with the Hurst, just in case of a hard shift.
5) I would recommend either but if I was going to do it again, I would get the Hurst.
Great that you are pleased with the switch and feel it was worth it..(you can sell the ripper and get most your money back anyway).........I guess I'm lucky in that my Ripper doesn't rattle :cheers:
My baby is in garage from last December and I have replaced
the stock shifter with B&M Ripper a month ago. My C5 is still in hibernation mode.
(I though I was almost there yesterday. But I have 15Cm new snow today in Ottawa)
Many people in forum addressed some rattle problem using B&M and are saying
Hurst is better than B&M Ripper. So should I consider switch the Ripper
to Hurst again? But I never drive the C5 with even Ripper.
It would appear some shifter rattle and others don't even though they are the same brand. My Hurst rattles a bit and I am using a Hardbar ****. It only does it under full throttle acceleration but it's not as quiet as stock which is to be expected given the direct link to the tranny. I am going to try some of the "fixes" out to see if it helps.
After reading all of these posts concerning the new Hurst shifter, I have a question. Does no one else remember why B&M removed the shift stops from the shifter? Word to the wise: Remove them before it's too late :yesnod:
No I Don't actually. Why?Joe
To avoid the potential of synchronizer failure due to maladjusted stops.:seeya
I need sunglasses after those posts. Anyway my ripper has been in for 18 months working perfectly.
There is a down side to performance shifters, they are tight\stiff\precise which makes them a bother to some. They were developed to make you shift faster and accurately.My ripper is silent ,try not to rest your right hand on shifter, it should be at 1 0'clock.....
My ripper doesn't rattle either but it is brand new and I understand that there have been some design changes over the years. Also, I had "The Master" Ken (mysea5) do the install and use his patented "flip the boot over biatch" install technique to minimize noise. I love the rippah!
How do the shift stops cause synchronizer failures exactly. It doesn't make sense to me unless you had them adjusted so the car wasn't fully in gear. If you push forward fully into 3rd for example and adjust so the stop is still 1/16-1/8"away from the shaft you shouldn't have any issues :confused:
Personally, I would not switch from the Ripper to the Hurst. They are very similar. If I had the stock shifter, I would go Hurst but even if I went Ripper, I would be happy.
It is strange that some shifters seem to rattle and others don't, even within the same brand. Maybe it has something to do with the installation.
After reading all of these posts concerning the new Hurst shifter, I have a question. Does no one else remember why B&M removed the shift stops from the shifter? Word to the wise: Remove them before it's too late :yesnod:
No I Don't actually. Why?Joe
To avoid the potential of synchronizer failure due to maladjusted stops.:seeya
Yup :yesnod: And the fact that the trannys have internal overhaul stops :cheers:
If your stops are leaving "play" in the lever when in gear, the stops have no way to cause a problem. The problems occur when they are set to inhibit full gear engagement. As I've said, the stops are really of little value because of the trans' internal stops. The shifter stops are only of value to abusive drivers who apply way too much force to the shifter. If you have any doubt about how to set the stops, or any concern of them causing a problem, just remove them.
B&M removed their stops for a variety of reasons- cost reduction, simplification, complaints from those not setting them right, and vibration noise when they would touch the stick.
Hurst still wants to incorporate them because when installed right they can be useful, and we want to give the extreme drivers what they want. But for many this feature is best removed.