Car stutters on acceleration
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 963
Likes: 23
Car stutters on acceleration
Hey everybody my browser locked up the last time I tried to post this so I don't think it posted. Anyway,
Got a 99 C5 with an automatic transmission.
Sometimes on normal acceleration the car will stutter up around 2500 rpm and when I pull out into the street and put the pedal down hard it stutters instantly. When the A/C is on it is wayyy worse. When I'm cruising down the highway and I romp on it it's fine and doesn't stutter at all. It revs just fine too. I had this exact problem with an LT1 Camaro and it was a bad coil. I'm hoping that's what it is with my Vette but I wanna ask you guys before I go diving into it.
Also, would having the following mods without a tune or a tuned MAS cause this problem?
Mods:
cold air intake
Stock MAS with screen removed
B&B bullet exhaust
I got some codes but they weren't for the PCM or the TCS. They were only for tire pressure sensors and left and right door control modules. I already know about those problems.
Thanks for the help
Scott
Got a 99 C5 with an automatic transmission.
Sometimes on normal acceleration the car will stutter up around 2500 rpm and when I pull out into the street and put the pedal down hard it stutters instantly. When the A/C is on it is wayyy worse. When I'm cruising down the highway and I romp on it it's fine and doesn't stutter at all. It revs just fine too. I had this exact problem with an LT1 Camaro and it was a bad coil. I'm hoping that's what it is with my Vette but I wanna ask you guys before I go diving into it.
Also, would having the following mods without a tune or a tuned MAS cause this problem?
Mods:
cold air intake
Stock MAS with screen removed
B&B bullet exhaust
I got some codes but they weren't for the PCM or the TCS. They were only for tire pressure sensors and left and right door control modules. I already know about those problems.
Thanks for the help
Scott
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,720
Likes: 38
From: Colorado
plugs..wires.. fuel filter.. exhaust leak... intake manifold leak.. could be a lot of things.
a bunch of problems are ok at WOT where things are flowing real fast, and crap out at partial throttle/acceleration. just start a tune up and/or checking off appropriate voltages and outputs from sensors unless you get a code or something to point you in a specific direction.
a bunch of problems are ok at WOT where things are flowing real fast, and crap out at partial throttle/acceleration. just start a tune up and/or checking off appropriate voltages and outputs from sensors unless you get a code or something to point you in a specific direction.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 963
Likes: 23
Plugs and wires are brand new. Exhaust doesn't leak. Good fuel pressure to all injectors. Ran fine this morning, checked my codes again and got a Historic code of SDM B1001 but I can't find that anywhere on the DIC sheets.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 963
Likes: 23
You know what man, they are old. I'm 100 percent certain they are the originals. I just looked at another post where the guy had the exact same codes as me and everyone told him to change his O2 sensors so that's what I'm going to try first. Is there any way for GM to test an O2 sensor or will they have to replace all 4 of them? Or maybe I should just replace them all huh.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,720
Likes: 38
From: Colorado
i guess its plausible you could test them, but it'd have to be a controlled environment where you would expect certain voltages from them..
if you have a bunch of miles on them, i'd replace them for sure. bad o2's quite often wont throw codes until they're completely dead (at which point you've probably run a LONG time on junked up input from them). and you said "they".. its super simple to replace these. and i wouldnt take it to a stealership for this at all. ANYBODY with a lift can do this - you, neighbor, exhaust shop, whatever. order them at carpartswholesale, GMPP here on the forums, etc and let any joe schmoe do it for you.
if you have a bunch of miles on them, i'd replace them for sure. bad o2's quite often wont throw codes until they're completely dead (at which point you've probably run a LONG time on junked up input from them). and you said "they".. its super simple to replace these. and i wouldnt take it to a stealership for this at all. ANYBODY with a lift can do this - you, neighbor, exhaust shop, whatever. order them at carpartswholesale, GMPP here on the forums, etc and let any joe schmoe do it for you.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 16
From: Katy Tx
first question: did it have the problem before plug/wire change??
not uncommon to have a cracked plug or even a wire that is not
snapped all the way in postion. Lots of guys have reported cracking a plug with a wrench/socket while installing.
not uncommon to have a cracked plug or even a wire that is not
snapped all the way in postion. Lots of guys have reported cracking a plug with a wrench/socket while installing.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 963
Likes: 23
Yes, it had the problem before the plugs and wires. My first instinct was to change those cause they're cheap but that didn't fix it (although it ran a heck of a lot better). SO, I got to thinking that maybe it had something to do with me putting all new CAI and exhaust because I heard that the early LS1's were really picky about mods. I went ahead and ordered a Granatelli Cold Air Tuned MAF Sensor and some new O2 sensors. I'll put them on next week when they get here and see if that fixes it. If not, I guess the only other thing to do is replace the coils. Which I had planned on getting some MSD's anyway. Unless you guys can recommend a better set of coils? I've heard both good and bad about MSD so I need some guidance on those. Thanks!
P.S. I've heard a lot of people say crank position sensor too. Is that an easy change?
