HID Install Problems
Banned Scam/Spammer
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,093
Likes: 267
From: Oklahoma City
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17,'19,'22
You have either a bad ballast(more likely) or bad bulb.
I have some for sale if you want a good quality one.
They shouldn't flicker at all.
I have some for sale if you want a good quality one.
They shouldn't flicker at all.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,428
Likes: 17
From: Northern CA
St. Jude Donor '10-'12, '25
Thx JW for the resistor I got it today. But I am still having a problem chime in and let me know what I can do.
Ok so before the resistor my passanger side light would flicker sometimes on start up and then it would either go away or the light would shut off. I installed the resistor on the passanger side and it fixed the headlights going up and down and I installed the 20 amp fuses.
I now only get the flickering sometimes on start up but like I said sometimes when it does happen it makes the light go out.
What is the solution to this? I previously ordered anti flicker capacitors but they where not here yet. Would that fix this problem just hooking this into each headlight circuit? thx
Ok so before the resistor my passanger side light would flicker sometimes on start up and then it would either go away or the light would shut off. I installed the resistor on the passanger side and it fixed the headlights going up and down and I installed the 20 amp fuses.
I now only get the flickering sometimes on start up but like I said sometimes when it does happen it makes the light go out.
What is the solution to this? I previously ordered anti flicker capacitors but they where not here yet. Would that fix this problem just hooking this into each headlight circuit? thx
Check your connections. Positive (red) wires connected to battery (positive post outside fuse block) and ground wires connected to ground terminal (on frame below car battery). Remember positive-to-positive and negative-to-negative. If they don't work switch the connector(s) around.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,428
Likes: 17
From: Northern CA
St. Jude Donor '10-'12, '25
You can also check the ballast with a Volt Ohmmeter. Remove the ballast from the connectors (no power and no bulb connected). Turn the Volt Ohmmeter to "ohms" and touch the ends of the two probes together. The meter should show continuity or a direct short. Then touch the probes of the meter to one of the wires from the ballast and the other probe to the other connector/wire from the ballast. This should show a short or continuous circuit (similar to touching the two probes together). If it does not, the ballast is bad and should be replaced. 
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 930
Likes: 3
From: Lawrenceville GA
When the lights flicker and then go out are you blowing a fuse? Did your kit include a wiring harness with ballast, ground wire, connectors, resistor etc. here's what mine looked like at the light assembly:
Check your connections. Positive (red) wires connected to battery (positive post outside fuse block) and ground wires connected to ground terminal (on frame below car battery). Remember positive-to-positive and negative-to-negative. If they don't work switch the connector(s) around.
Check your connections. Positive (red) wires connected to battery (positive post outside fuse block) and ground wires connected to ground terminal (on frame below car battery). Remember positive-to-positive and negative-to-negative. If they don't work switch the connector(s) around.
Here is a wiring diagram for them:
I'm using 55w ballasts, so they pull the same as the original lamps and don't need a resistor.
The way they are wired also keeps the HIDs on when you switch to high beams.
Even if you aren't using the "ACA" headlights, you might be able to find these harnesses... maybe JWM has a few?
