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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 05:34 PM
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Default Cooling Temp Hot...

Hey guys, I have a 2004 Coupe and my cooling temp reached 245 degrees, no leaks, replaced both belts, water pump has no play in it. Took out the thermostat, seems to be ok when you boil it in hot water on the stove, it definately opens up. I checked for debris inside the radiator and it all looks clear. I left out the stat and drove it and it still gets up to 245 degrees I want to know what else I might need to do. 76k on the original dex-cool! Any suggestions would be appreciated
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by TAZZVETTE
Hey guys, I have a 2004 Coupe and my cooling temp reached 245 degrees, no leaks, replaced both belts, water pump has no play in it. Took out the thermostat, seems to be ok when you boil it in hot water on the stove, it definately opens up. I checked for debris inside the radiator and it all looks clear. I left out the stat and drove it and it still gets up to 245 degrees I want to know what else I might need to do. 76k on the original dex-cool! Any suggestions would be appreciated
In the front of the car, by the air defecter. did you clean that area??? And.. did you assume that was the radiator??
The C5 is a bottom feeder, air is deflected up into the ac condenser, then through it to the radiator directly behind it.. I would have the surge cap tested or replaced, I would change the dex-cool, and I would remove the upper radiator shroud to expose the top of the condenser and the radiator.. With a blow pipe blow from the back toward the front of the car.. the radiator first and then the condenser.. you will see a half cup of bug guts, fuzzies, all types of leaf particles, and sand and road grime, which get into both sets of cooling vanes.
Bill aka ET
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 06:58 PM
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And put the thermostat back in. I don't watch my coolant temperatures on the DIC, but I do watch the oil temperatures routinely and leave that displayed instead of the odometer.

If leaves, plastic bags are an issue with your car, you can DIY or buy a bug screen to cover the bottom opening beneath your radiator/condenser. It won't stop bug guts and dust though. Many use the product from ELITE ENGINEERING. Otherwise, cleaning that area as mentioned needs to become a routine maintenance project.

In slow mountain traffic, in a lower gear/higher rpm, my car's oil temperature has gone as high as 242 in AZ summer. As soon as I was able to get away from traffic and shift into a higher gear, the temperatures dropped back down to the 220 range.

Your fans don't even come on until 226 and 235 degrees, otherwise the coolant system relies strictly on the incoming air flow. And if I'm not mistaken, at a certain speed the fans turn off. If I recall correctly (?), you can even drive your C5 w/o coolant for a certain distance by design. The LSx motor is amazing in it's engineering.

E-T could elaborate on that. FYI, E-T was an engineer on the C5 Corvette. ..

Last edited by hotwheels57; Jun 11, 2010 at 07:08 PM.
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by hotwheels57
And put the thermostat back in. I don't watch my coolant temperatures on the DIC, but I do watch the oil temperatures routinely and leave that displayed instead of the odometer.

If leaves, plastic bags are an issue with your car, you can DIY or buy a bug screen to cover the bottom opening beneath your radiator/condenser. It won't stop bug guts and dust though. Many use the product from ELITE ENGINEERING. Otherwise, cleaning that area as mentioned needs to become a routine maintenance project.

In slow mountain traffic, in a lower gear/higher rpm, my car's oil temperature has gone as high as 242 in AZ summer. As soon as I was able to get away from traffic and shift into a higher gear, the temperatures dropped back down to the 220 range.

Your fans don't even come on until 226 and 235 degrees, otherwise the coolant system relies strictly on the incoming air flow. And if I'm not mistaken, at a certain speed the fans turn off. If I recall correctly (?), you can even drive your C5 w/o coolant for a certain distance by design. The LSx motor is amazing in it's engineering.

E-T could elaborate on that. FYI, E-T was an engineer on the C5 Corvette. ..
sorry, doubt this. I know you the coolant doesn't flow until the thermostat opens, but you still need coolant inside. If you drive 40 sec, cool car off for 5 hours, drive 40 sec, maybe.
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 10:56 PM
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I am not totally clear on the circumstances that are causing your higher temp readings. BUT, you will see lower temperatures if you run the AC when moving slow in traffic. Running the AC turns on the "low speed" fan to help move air across the condensor, and obviously the radiator.

Being a "bottom feeder" and not having a water-pump driven fan, you will see high temps with no AC, slow or standing speed or high rpm driving.

Now, on to your OLD coolant. I would do a serious flush. I changed mine at 36K and it looked new. But, the recommended interval is 30K and you are on your THIRD full interval without a change. Reports have it that some blockage can occur with old or imporperly mixed coolants. Simple to do, so take care of it soon. JMHO
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by -DLS-
sorry, doubt this. I know you the coolant doesn't flow until the thermostat opens, but you still need coolant inside. If you drive 40 sec, cool car off for 5 hours, drive 40 sec, maybe.
I think you can...the computer goes into "limp" mode and cycles which cylinders receive an ignition spark to manage engine temperature. Temperature of individual cylinders are controlled so engine damage will not/should not occur.
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by TotaledmyGN
I think you can...the computer goes into "limp" mode and cycles which cylinders receive an ignition spark to manage engine temperature. Temperature of individual cylinders are controlled so engine damage will not/should not occur.
thats crazy. 60mpg with half power?

I'm draining coolant as we speak.
I kid I kid
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 03:32 AM
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So did you clean out the condenser or the radiator? the condenser is what you see as you look up under the car.

I had 2 problems causing high temps on mine. I was seeing 240-250 in the texas summer in town. First was debris in the radiator fins. You need to get in between the condenser and radiator and really clean it all out well. Second was I had a fan out. My left most fan was not coming on (bad fan motor).

Eventually I just ended up getting a dewitts radiator and dual fan upgrade and the most I see now is 190-195, even on a 100 degree day. My fan kicks on at 190, and those things really move some air.
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by TotaledmyGN
I think you can...the computer goes into "limp" mode and cycles which cylinders receive an ignition spark to manage engine temperature. Temperature of individual cylinders are controlled so engine damage will not/should not occur.

I can't find the discussion with C5 engineer "Evil-Twin" from 3-4+ years ago. I remember a thread in which he described the limp home mode and that the LSx motor could be driven for a short distance with a complete loss of coolant. I could be mistaken in my memory of his comments, hence the (?) in my reply above.

Maybe Evil-Twin will chime in with his first hand knowledge.

I did find this reference in the C5/Z06 owners manual but it doesn't mention complete loss of coolant...

Overheated Engine Protection
Operating Mode
If an overheated engine condition exists and the
messages COOLANT OVER TEMP and REDUCED
ENGINE POWER are displayed, along with the Check
Engine light, an overheat protection mode which
alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine
damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power
and engine performance. This operating mode
allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an
emergency; you may drive up to 50 miles (80 km).
Notice: After driving in the overheated engine
protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage,
allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair.
The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the
cause of coolant loss
, change the oil and reset the oil
life system. See Engine Oil on page 5-13.
5-

Last edited by hotwheels57; Jun 12, 2010 at 05:38 PM.
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 04:16 PM
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complete loss of coolant, and no spark no fuel,just pumps air, in every other firing cylinder is the Northstar Cad. motor, tested in Death Valley 360 miles.and 112+ degrees.
limp mod in the LS motor is for over heated coolant, NOT loss. car will lock up if coolant loss!
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Old Jun 13, 2010 | 08:35 PM
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Hey fellow members, Thakyou to everyone with their input with my overheating problem.
I changed the surge tank Cap, flushed and filled with new Dex-Cool, new Stat too!
Seems to be better than before running 210-220deg. but yesterday going through the mountains with outside temp pushing 100deg., She hit 235 a few times while climbing a grade. Maybe this is normal for California summer driving.
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Old Jun 13, 2010 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by baddboyz03
complete loss of coolant, and no spark no fuel,just pumps air, in every other firing cylinder is the Northstar Cad. motor, tested in Death Valley 360 miles.and 112+ degrees.
limp mod in the LS motor is for over heated coolant, NOT loss. car will lock up if coolant loss!
And what is the difference exactly between a coolant system that no longer is pressurized, and subsequently enters an "overheated" condition (not being able to exchange heat), and no coolant at all?
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Old Jun 13, 2010 | 09:08 PM
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Default part of maintenance

As this post shows, I was very surprised at what came out when we replaced the radiator.

I suggest that this be part of the bi annual maintenance

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/sout...-the-wise.html
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Old Jun 13, 2010 | 10:34 PM
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Default Lucky131969

YOU ANSWERED YOUR OWN QUESTION! now for a complete tech. answer look it up on GMs tech web site.
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Old Jun 13, 2010 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by baddboyz03
YOU ANSWERED YOUR OWN QUESTION! now for a complete tech. answer look it up on GMs tech web site.
I'll pass.....I already know the answer.....
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