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C5 A/C Problems... worth taking to shop?

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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 02:22 PM
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Default C5 A/C Problems... worth taking to shop?

OK heres the deal... I'm not sure if any of these are separate problems or not but Ill throw it all in. I want to get this fixed but I'm in collage right now and dont have alot of money to waste on this. I need to know if a shop could fix this or if its possible for me to try any recommendations from you guys.

1. The a/c only blows medium cold air. I have tried to release some pressure and recharge back to about 45-50 psi so I think the freon level is ok. But Im not sure exactly since every once in a while one side will blow hot and the other cold, which seems to be a indication that's its also low.

2. The system does not seem to be leaking. I tried to fill the freon up last year to deal with this and the PSI hasn't dropped since then, so therefor no leak right?

3. The system will just randomly stop blowing cool air and just start to blow hot. Currently I have a switch for the a/c, so when the cold stops blowing, I reset it while driving and It will blow ok again, but maybe after 5 min it will start to blow hot again.

4. The climate control seems to "lag" a bit. For instance, if I turn the ac on and turn the level up a few times it wont go up. If I wait 5 seconds and hit the button it will instantly blow at the desired level.

Please help, this problem is really making me want to trade this in for a BMW, which I'm really trying to avoid. (I still love the C5 too much!)

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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Vip3rV333
OK heres the deal... I'm not sure if any of these are separate problems or not but Ill throw it all in. I want to get this fixed but I'm in collage right now and dont have alot of money to waste on this. I need to know if a shop could fix this or if its possible for me to try any recommendations from you guys.

1. The a/c only blows medium cold air. I have tried to release some pressure and recharge back to about 45-50 psi so I think the freon level is ok. But Im not sure exactly since every once in a while one side will blow hot and the other cold, which seems to be a indication that's its also low.

2. The system does not seem to be leaking. I tried to fill the freon up last year to deal with this and the PSI hasn't dropped since then, so therefor no leak right?

3. The system will just randomly stop blowing cool air and just start to blow hot. Currently I have a switch for the a/c, so when the cold stops blowing, I reset it while driving and It will blow ok again, but maybe after 5 min it will start to blow hot again.

4. The climate control seems to "lag" a bit. For instance, if I turn the ac on and turn the level up a few times it wont go up. If I wait 5 seconds and hit the button it will instantly blow at the desired level.

Please help, this problem is really making me want to trade this in for a BMW, which I'm really trying to avoid. (I still love the C5 too much!)

Codes?
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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 03:25 PM
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Oh man I'm wishing you didn't ask...

HVAC codes are in orange. Not sure if thers are relevant.
The only "current" code is in red.

40-BCM -Body Control Module
H B0432 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit

60-IPC - Instrument Panel Cluster
H U1160 Loss of Communications with LDCM
H U1176 Loss of Communications with RFA

99-HVAC - Heater, Ventilation, Air Conditioning
H B0361 Left Actuator Feedback Short to GND
HC B0363 Left Actuator Feedback Open
H B0365 Right Actuator Feedback Short to GND
H B0367 Right Actuator Feedback Open
H B0441 Left Actuator Out of Range
H B0446 Right Actuator Out of Range


A0-LDCM - Left Door Control Module
H B2282 Battery #1 Fault
H B2284 Battery #2 Fault
H B2262 Horizontal Position Sensor Fit
H B2264 Vertical Position Sensor Fault

A1-RDCM - Right Door Control Module
H B2203 Right Window Up Switch Fault
H B2283 Battery #1 Fault
H B2285 Battery #2 Fault
H B2263 Horizontal Position Sensor Fit
H U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM

A6-SCM - Seat Control Module
H B0851 Battery 1 Out of Range
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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 04:08 PM
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oh ****, lol
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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 04:12 PM
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sounds to me like your actuator is FUBAR...

good news bad news if thats all it is....you can do it yourself if you don't mind pulling the dash out

I hear you can do it without taking the dash apart....if you have hands like a 5 year old because I sure as hell don't have big hands but I couldn't get in there

bad news if you go to a dealer or AC shop you are looking at a sh** ton of $$$ as it is a lot of labor

my actuator was FUBAR and I swapped head units for $125 and it solved my issue but it has to be from an 01 and up I used one from an 04
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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 04:39 PM
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My suggestions:
1. Clear all the codes and see what if any come back.
2. Your pressure is too high. That may be the reason the system is cutting off. Pressure should be no more than 40 PSI with A/C on 60 Degrees and your engine rpms at 2000.

Do these 2 items and let us know the results of that after a day or so.
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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 05:18 PM
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This is what happens when people try to work on AC and don't really know how the system works. You need to get GUAGES on the high and low side to see what's happening. "Letting gas out to refill"??? What's up with that? If you want to know EXACTLY what's in the system, have it EVACUATED to ZERO, have a vacuum pulled on it to check for leaks, then add the CORRECT amount of refrigerant. The Actuator codes are most likely point you to the REAL culprit of the problem, the actuators are either broken or not calibrated correctly (you can search on the calibration technique-been covered many time).

I suggest you take it to an AC guy to make sure the basic AC system is OK, then tackle the actuators.
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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 06:57 PM
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Default Actuator calibration

Originally Posted by schpenxel
oh ****, lol
Tell me about it...

Originally Posted by pewter99
sounds to me like your actuator is FUBAR...

good news bad news if thats all it is....you can do it yourself if you don't mind pulling the dash out

I hear you can do it without taking the dash apart....if you have hands like a 5 year old because I sure as hell don't have big hands but I couldn't get in there

bad news if you go to a dealer or AC shop you are looking at a sh** ton of $$$ as it is a lot of labor

my actuator was FUBAR and I swapped head units for $125 and it solved my issue but it has to be from an 01 and up I used one from an 04
That is going to have to be my last resort, I'm trying to avoid removing any of the interior plastic parts b/c the car is already as creaky as hell...

Originally Posted by thomastl
My suggestions:
1. Clear all the codes and see what if any come back.
2. Your pressure is too high. That may be the reason the system is cutting off. Pressure should be no more than 40 PSI with A/C on 60 Degrees and your engine rpms at 2000.

Do these 2 items and let us know the results of that after a day or so.
Makes sense... Ill try this tonight and see what happens...

Originally Posted by dougbfresh
This is what happens when people try to work on AC and don't really know how the system works. You need to get GUAGES on the high and low side to see what's happening. "Letting gas out to refill"??? What's up with that? If you want to know EXACTLY what's in the system, have it EVACUATED to ZERO, have a vacuum pulled on it to check for leaks, then add the CORRECT amount of refrigerant. The Actuator codes are most likely point you to the REAL culprit of the problem, the actuators are either broken or not calibrated correctly (you can search on the calibration technique-been covered many time).

I suggest you take it to an AC guy to make sure the basic AC system is OK, then tackle the actuators.
Thanks for the kind wording. I'm still trying to learn everything I can about it DIY... Better than not trying at all right? How else you going to learn. Tonight when I release some of the pressure in the system (maybe its overfilled?) and if it doesn't help with the shutting off then Ill take it to a shop and have them vacuum it, refill, and diagnose.
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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 07:37 PM
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check the DIY sticky up top there is a whole write up on AC diagnosis
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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Vip3rV333
Thanks for the kind wording. I'm still trying to learn everything I can about it DIY... Better than not trying at all right? How else you going to learn.
I disagree. Learning the hard way is for kids...not adults....and sometimes, "trying" without knowing what you are doing..can leave you in a worse condition than you started with. With a service manual, and the correct gauges, you can diagnose the system yourself. If you don't have a service manual, many of us can email you the necessary procedures so you can get it done correctly
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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 11:25 PM
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I never said anything about doing it the hard way... that's why I'm here trying to do research (and reach out to forum members) so I can try all the steps that dont involve blowing money first. (taking to shop/buying gauges, vacuum, and not the cheapo stuff that will break, but a decent set of those cost around $250+...) .

Ands as for "trying w/o knowing what your doing", well kinda my fault, the guys at Advanced recommended those previous steps, but how often can you really trust ppl in retail? "Here buy this $90 delux recharge kit, it will fix your problems, and it has a nice squeeze release so its not to hard to do..." And Im not kidding, one of the Advanced stores told me that.

Last edited by Vip3rV333; Jun 28, 2010 at 11:30 PM.
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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Vip3rV333
I never said anything about doing it the hard way... that's why I'm here trying to do research (and reach out to forum members) so I can try all the steps that dont involve blowing money first. (taking to shop/buying gauges, vacuum, and not the cheapo stuff that will break, but a decent set of those cost around $250+...) .

Ands as for "trying w/o knowing what your doing", well kinda my fault, the guys at Advanced recommended those previous steps, but how often can you really trust ppl in retail? "Here buy this $90 delux recharge kit, it will fix your problems, and it has a nice squeeze release so its not to hard to do..." And Im not kidding, one of the Advanced stores told me that.
There is certainly nothing wrong with an inexpensive set of guages, even from harbor freight. Are they a good choice for a working professional....no, but for someone who may mess with the A/C system once every 5 years...they'll work fine.

Like I said, there are many here, including myself, that can provide you with the correct procedures, all you have to do is ask.
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Old Jun 28, 2010 | 11:43 PM
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http://www.harborfreight.com/review/...stomer-reviews

You recommend that?
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 12:01 AM
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an a/c shop should be your next stop.

have a professional fix this for you.
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Vip3rV333
Tell me about it...



That is going to have to be my last resort, I'm trying to avoid removing any of the interior plastic parts b/c the car is already as creaky as hell...



Makes sense... Ill try this tonight and see what happens...



Thanks for the kind wording. I'm still trying to learn everything I can about it DIY... Better than not trying at all right? How else you going to learn. Tonight when I release some of the pressure in the system (maybe its overfilled?) and if it doesn't help with the shutting off then Ill take it to a shop and have them vacuum it, refill, and diagnose.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...iy-thread.html

READ POST #9 if you really want to learn something.
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 01:22 PM
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I did, Im just going to take it to a shop already and see they they can do.
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 03:37 PM
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Ok, I stopped by two shops.

#1. Wants $45 to diagnose it if I'm not actually going to go through with them fixing it.
#2. Wants $60 to vacuum the system and go from there.

Which to go with?
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Vip3rV333
Ok, I stopped by two shops.

#1. Wants $45 to diagnose it if I'm not actually going to go through with them fixing it.
#2. Wants $60 to vacuum the system and go from there.

Which to go with?
I vote for #2 BUT you most likely have actuator issues too but getting the AC working correctly is your 1st hurdle.
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 04:26 PM
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Do you have a gauge that will allow you to check the pressure on the low side?
If so, save your money.
Crank the engine. Set A/C on 60 Degrees.
Run the engine up to 2000 rpms.
See what the low pressure side is. If between 30 and 40 psi then coolant and system they will be testing is working properly. In this case the problem is the regulator under the dash. Check your codes again.
If low pressure, add coolant to achieve between 30 and 40 psi.
If high, release coolant to achieve between 30 and 40 psi.

Then see how it operates for a day.

For $60 they are going to pull a vacuum. Then tell you they don't see a problem (chances are). Then they will charge you $$$ to refill the system with oil and coolant.

If you don't have a guage, buy one. It will work on all your cars.

This is not rocket science we are dealing with.
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Old Jun 29, 2010 | 04:44 PM
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I do have a gauge. I looked at the diagram, considering the humidity and the air temp outside it said my PSI should be around 34. I had someone keep the revs at 2k, and when I attached the gauge it said the PSI was 30. I tried to fill it up with freon, but the needle would just jump around +3 or 5 PSI and go back down. The a/c blows even warmer now and still shuts off. I think there is only so much I can do here without also checking the high side PSI. I have a feeling that I am only going to make this worse if I just keep blindly messing with it. Any other advice before I take it to the shop?

Plus... if it matters, is there supposed to be condensation on all the a/c pipes? I only see condenation around the low pressure nozzle, the rest of the pipes around the fans are really hot.

Last edited by Vip3rV333; Jun 29, 2010 at 04:46 PM.
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