C5 A/C Problems... worth taking to shop?
1. The a/c only blows medium cold air. I have tried to release some pressure and recharge back to about 45-50 psi so I think the freon level is ok. But Im not sure exactly since every once in a while one side will blow hot and the other cold, which seems to be a indication that's its also low.
2. The system does not seem to be leaking. I tried to fill the freon up last year to deal with this and the PSI hasn't dropped since then, so therefor no leak right?
3. The system will just randomly stop blowing cool air and just start to blow hot. Currently I have a switch for the a/c, so when the cold stops blowing, I reset it while driving and It will blow ok again, but maybe after 5 min it will start to blow hot again.
4. The climate control seems to "lag" a bit. For instance, if I turn the ac on and turn the level up a few times it wont go up. If I wait 5 seconds and hit the button it will instantly blow at the desired level.
Please help, this problem is really making me want to trade this in for a BMW, which I'm really trying to avoid. (I still love the C5 too much!)
1. The a/c only blows medium cold air. I have tried to release some pressure and recharge back to about 45-50 psi so I think the freon level is ok. But Im not sure exactly since every once in a while one side will blow hot and the other cold, which seems to be a indication that's its also low.
2. The system does not seem to be leaking. I tried to fill the freon up last year to deal with this and the PSI hasn't dropped since then, so therefor no leak right?
3. The system will just randomly stop blowing cool air and just start to blow hot. Currently I have a switch for the a/c, so when the cold stops blowing, I reset it while driving and It will blow ok again, but maybe after 5 min it will start to blow hot again.
4. The climate control seems to "lag" a bit. For instance, if I turn the ac on and turn the level up a few times it wont go up. If I wait 5 seconds and hit the button it will instantly blow at the desired level.
Please help, this problem is really making me want to trade this in for a BMW, which I'm really trying to avoid. (I still love the C5 too much!)

HVAC codes are in orange. Not sure if thers are relevant.
The only "current" code is in red.
40-BCM -Body Control Module
H B0432 Rear Defogger Relay Circuit
60-IPC - Instrument Panel Cluster
H U1160 Loss of Communications with LDCM
H U1176 Loss of Communications with RFA
99-HVAC - Heater, Ventilation, Air Conditioning
H B0361 Left Actuator Feedback Short to GND
HC B0363 Left Actuator Feedback Open
H B0365 Right Actuator Feedback Short to GND
H B0367 Right Actuator Feedback Open
H B0441 Left Actuator Out of Range
H B0446 Right Actuator Out of Range
A0-LDCM - Left Door Control Module
H B2282 Battery #1 Fault
H B2284 Battery #2 Fault
H B2262 Horizontal Position Sensor Fit
H B2264 Vertical Position Sensor Fault
A1-RDCM - Right Door Control Module
H B2203 Right Window Up Switch Fault
H B2283 Battery #1 Fault
H B2285 Battery #2 Fault
H B2263 Horizontal Position Sensor Fit
H U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM
A6-SCM - Seat Control Module
H B0851 Battery 1 Out of Range





good news bad news if thats all it is....you can do it yourself if you don't mind pulling the dash out
I hear you can do it without taking the dash apart....if you have hands like a 5 year old because I sure as hell don't have big hands but I couldn't get in there

bad news if you go to a dealer or AC shop you are looking at a sh** ton of $$$ as it is a lot of labor
my actuator was FUBAR and I swapped head units for $125 and it solved my issue but it has to be from an 01 and up I used one from an 04
1. Clear all the codes and see what if any come back.
2. Your pressure is too high. That may be the reason the system is cutting off. Pressure should be no more than 40 PSI with A/C on 60 Degrees and your engine rpms at 2000.
Do these 2 items and let us know the results of that after a day or so.
I suggest you take it to an AC guy to make sure the basic AC system is OK, then tackle the actuators.
Tell me about it...good news bad news if thats all it is....you can do it yourself if you don't mind pulling the dash out
I hear you can do it without taking the dash apart....if you have hands like a 5 year old because I sure as hell don't have big hands but I couldn't get in there

bad news if you go to a dealer or AC shop you are looking at a sh** ton of $$$ as it is a lot of labor
my actuator was FUBAR and I swapped head units for $125 and it solved my issue but it has to be from an 01 and up I used one from an 04
1. Clear all the codes and see what if any come back.
2. Your pressure is too high. That may be the reason the system is cutting off. Pressure should be no more than 40 PSI with A/C on 60 Degrees and your engine rpms at 2000.
Do these 2 items and let us know the results of that after a day or so.
I suggest you take it to an AC guy to make sure the basic AC system is OK, then tackle the actuators.
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.Ands as for "trying w/o knowing what your doing", well kinda my fault, the guys at Advanced recommended those previous steps, but how often can you really trust ppl in retail?
"Here buy this $90 delux recharge kit, it will fix your problems, and it has a nice squeeze release so its not to hard to do..." And Im not kidding, one of the Advanced stores told me that.
Last edited by Vip3rV333; Jun 28, 2010 at 11:30 PM.
.Ands as for "trying w/o knowing what your doing", well kinda my fault, the guys at Advanced recommended those previous steps, but how often can you really trust ppl in retail?
"Here buy this $90 delux recharge kit, it will fix your problems, and it has a nice squeeze release so its not to hard to do..." And Im not kidding, one of the Advanced stores told me that.Like I said, there are many here, including myself, that can provide you with the correct procedures, all you have to do is ask.
Tell me about it...That is going to have to be my last resort, I'm trying to avoid removing any of the interior plastic parts b/c the car is already as creaky as hell...
Makes sense... Ill try this tonight and see what happens...
Thanks for the kind wording.
READ POST #9 if you really want to learn something.
#1. Wants $45 to diagnose it if I'm not actually going to go through with them fixing it.
#2. Wants $60 to vacuum the system and go from there.
Which to go with?
If so, save your money.
Crank the engine. Set A/C on 60 Degrees.
Run the engine up to 2000 rpms.
See what the low pressure side is. If between 30 and 40 psi then coolant and system they will be testing is working properly. In this case the problem is the regulator under the dash. Check your codes again.
If low pressure, add coolant to achieve between 30 and 40 psi.
If high, release coolant to achieve between 30 and 40 psi.
Then see how it operates for a day.
For $60 they are going to pull a vacuum. Then tell you they don't see a problem (chances are). Then they will charge you $$$ to refill the system with oil and coolant.
If you don't have a guage, buy one. It will work on all your cars.
This is not rocket science we are dealing with.
Plus... if it matters, is there supposed to be condensation on all the a/c pipes? I only see condenation around the low pressure nozzle, the rest of the pipes around the fans are really hot.
Last edited by Vip3rV333; Jun 29, 2010 at 04:46 PM.













