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I have a 2000 Corvette longtube headers. I took out the battery and had it tested, and they said it was fine. Just to be sure they put it on the quick charge unit, and topped the charge off. So the battery should be completely fine. When I turn the key all I get is a single click from the starter area, so I assume the starter solenoid is bad. I just wanted to confirm that the starters bad before ordering a new one. How much do most shops charge to replace a starter if you have longtube headers?
-btw I got the car started by pushing it on a hill and popping the clutch
- jason
Could be or could be dirty resistor pellet in ignition
Had bad solenoid - replaced starter. 3 years later same symptom but starter is OK. This time is dirty pellet in key. Try some alcohol on the pellet and some tuner contact cleaner in the ignition key. Works for me.
I just spent a day and a half looking for the same problem (not on my vette but....) found a loose battery cable at the starter, check all connections you can.
Good luck
Norm
I just spent a day and a half looking for the same problem (not on my vette but....) found a loose battery cable at the starter, check all connections you can.
Good luck
Norm
Thanks for the advice everyone...I think ive ruled out the dirty pellet, as I tried both keys.
When you look at the starter from the passenger side of the engine bay, which wires connect to it? I see a red and black wire going to that general area, and then also two wires in shielded plastic tubing in that general area. Can you see both connecting wires from the passenger side?
I really need to get the car atleast temporarily running.
-thanks
Codes:
PCM:
P1631 Theft Deterrent Start Enable Signal Not Correct
B2723 PASS-Key Detection Circuit
B0361 Left Actuator Feedback Short to GND
B0441 Left Actuator Out of Range
[QUOTE=NLKoerner;1574606937found a loose battery cable at the starter, check all connections you can.
Good luck
Norm[/QUOTE]
Yep this one in my case, car starts fine but battery drains faster, when i installed LT headers i had to remove starter to make clearance for LT header, well later when i installed starter battery cables i could not tight up right because no room to turn wrench, now i got more pro tools, did tight those battery cables and car starts fine and no more battery drainage.
Take a mallet and give the starter solenoid a good whack and see if it comes to life. If it does, its time for a solenoid or starter and solenoid. As mentioned already, the battery cable to the solenoid must be tighted properly as well. Now one other remote possibility that I don't wish to mention but needs to be done anyway....any chance of coolant in one of the cylinders?
yea it does sound like your theft deterrent system is preventing your car from starting. almost like a bad resistance check on the pellet. try some cleaning alcohol on the pellet (still wet) and insert it in and out so it cleans the contact in there. Might be seeing too high a resistance and your being accused of stealing your own car.
Last edited by Bloodvette; Jul 6, 2010 at 12:04 PM.
Hmmmm......I'd be concerned about the B2723 code first, before considering a starter change.....
I have to wonder where the click is coming from that he's hearing? If the TDR was clicking in the passenger footwell, then the starter should crank up, otherwise if its the solenoid he's hearing, its bad. I was going on the click he was hearing. If the OP posted up a "C" or "H" attachment to the theft code, that would be helpful.
btw I got the car started by pushing it on a hill and popping the clutch
This caught my eye...
I had a very low battery and tried to pop start my '01z since the garage rolled right into a downward hill.
I've pop started at least 20 vehicles in my 30 years of life... and my Corvette was the ONLY one that failed. I tried it twice in 2nd gear, and when that failed, I gave it a last ditch try in 1st gear before the car came to rest.... even though it was worthless as a car at that point, it still looked good sitting there.
I was thinking that a C5 wasn't able to jump start... shocking that yours worked.... mine should've.
I have to wonder where the click is coming from that he's hearing? If the TDR was clicking in the passenger footwell, then the starter should crank up, otherwise if its the solenoid he's hearing, its bad. I was going on the click he was hearing. If the OP posted up a "C" or "H" attachment to the theft code, that would be helpful.
The codes are all H, but heres what happened. I cleared all the codes, took out the battery, had it load tested, and then fully charged, and then put the battery back in. Then I push started the car and drove it home. So I would assume no coolant in the cylinders because it drove fine right?
Also the click is pretty loud, loud enough that people filling up their cars in the gas station could hear it, so I assume its coming from the engine compartment around the starter.
So theres one quiet click (the usual one from the footwell around the bcm) and then a very loud click appearing to be from the engine compartment but I cant verify yet for sure)
Last edited by Ilovechevymusclecars; Jul 6, 2010 at 05:24 PM.
I had a very low battery and tried to pop start my '01z since the garage rolled right into a downward hill.
I've pop started at least 20 vehicles in my 30 years of life... and my Corvette was the ONLY one that failed. I tried it twice in 2nd gear, and when that failed, I gave it a last ditch try in 1st gear before the car came to rest.... even though it was worthless as a car at that point, it still looked good sitting there.
I was thinking that a C5 wasn't able to jump start... shocking that yours worked.... mine should've.
haha yeah I was surprised to see how easy it started. I just put it in second gear and popped the clutch...it started right up.
Sounds like solenoid, but it could be bad brushes on starter, when solenoid is energized it does to things, it engages the starter drive to flywheel and connects battery power to starter, if you have a DVM and somebody to trying starting the car you should measure 12-13 volts on electrical connection from solenoid to starter if voltage is present then starter is bad. My 97 requires removal of exhaust manifold to remove starter, do not know about long tube headers.
Sounds like solenoid, but it could be bad brushes on starter, when solenoid is energized it does to things, it engages the starter drive to flywheel and connects battery power to starter, if you have a DVM and somebody to trying starting the car you should measure 12-13 volts on electrical connection from solenoid to starter if voltage is present then starter is bad. My 97 requires removal of exhaust manifold to remove starter, do not know about long tube headers.
Because I hear a loud click coming from the starter, does that mean that the starter/solenoid is defective and not the theft deterrant relay or ignition switch?
A load click from starter area means bad starter/solenoid, if theft deterrant relay or ignition switch were bad you would not get clicking sound from engine area at all. Check your battery connections and wiring connections on solenoid, when checking connections on solenoid don't forget to disconnect battery, good luck. Regards Marty
Yeah, solenoid. Try the mallet trick. If it works or not, replace the solenoid.
lol I spent 2 years of my teenage life crawling under my trans am and hammering the starter solenoid. Once i replaced it, the problem never ever happened again.
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