No, no track for me friday, ....whaddayamean here we go again...he said he WOULD let me...you wouldnt :D Let me know when ya want to go 02-c5...im game tomorrow, and ill ride with you and let mine rest. :)

Daren

 

I would highly recommend this. I pulled a check engine light a month + ago and the auto tap showed a misfire code in cyl 8, it also showed about 3-4 degrees of knock retard. Took it to the dyno, Ataped it again and it showed 2-3 degrees's knock retard and about -20 HP on the dyno from it's previous mark with no mods. So I was worried about what was going on, took it to a dealer and we scanned it again and it showed 0.01-1.0 degrees knock retard, but barely noticeable, narrowed it down to bad gas or plugs.

Check out your timing on an autotap and see what it says.

 

Im going to try to get an Auto tap this week. I'll see what it says. I have not pulled a Check engine light yet. But there has got to be an answer somewhere. If it is bad gas, should I put in some additive or just fill it a another station?

Daren---Cant go tomorrow but I might be going next Friday, if its open, to test things out. Hopefully I'll know more this week with some testing.


[Modified by 02-C5, 6:00 AM 3/24/2002]

 

Hello-

Here's some suggestions that might help

1. How much gas do you come to the track with?....I've made my best runs with a quarter tank or less. If you have both tops use the glass one and leave the other one at home. The point being to put your car on a diet. :) Use the highest grade quality gas you can find. I always come to the track with 94 octane

2. The stock shifter s-u-c-k-s- :(. I went to a ripper and went from 13.8 to 13.5. The stock shifter is just too long and sloppy for drag racing imho. A short throw shifter would really help. You definitely would not be thinking about missing third anymore.

3. Learn how to minipulate your coolant temps. Before you stage make sure to turn your temps all the way up. This will kick on your fans and should bring your coolant temp down to 190-194. Make sure you turn everything off before you launch.

4. Did you turn the Ah/Tch off?.....a must.

5. Shift at 6200 rpms and drive through the finish. Third gear will only get you to 103-104mph but learn how to shift as close to the fuel cut off as possible. You want to be running high rpm's through the traps

6. Have fun!....Launching a six speed is a major P-I-T-A but your 60 foot times aren't bad you just need to floor her.

BTW, your car is still new. She's only going to get faster

Hope this helps!

David In Indy :seeya
----------------
2000 NBM M6-Coupe
All Options minus F45
Euros/Lloyd Mats/Chrome Shifter/Ripper/Halltech tric/T-bypass/Taylor
Wires/TTS Headers/High Flow Cats/X-pipe/Indy Corsas/Baers/Z06
Calipers/Russell ss brake lines/Hawk Pads/Porsche DOT4 Hi-Performance Brake
fluid/Redline oils/Zaino/Engine Dress by Auto Buffs and Design Specialties






[Modified by ledfoot, 11:25 AM 3/24/2002]

 

Dave,

1. I came to the track with a little under 1/2 tank and 93 octane.
2. I only have one top.
3. I need a good shifter.
4. My car seems to run warm. 200-220 is normal for my car. :confused:
5. Trackion was off on all runs.
6. I was shifting at about 5800-5900...Might be the problem.
7. The H.P. #'s still worries me but I believe I'll find out more with an Auto Tap.

Thanks for the info.

 

Just run the car as really really empty, then fill up with Amoco 93. I would stay away from additive, just my opinion, but they don't seem to help much on a dyno or a track

 

With stock shifter, 3/4 tank of gas, 220 degrees at staging, shifting at 6000 I have turned numerous 12.9 or better and 110 - 111 plus. These are all good ideas for serious drag racing, but even shifting at 5800 - 5900, and with what you have you should be turning very low 13's at 108 -109 on a bone stock car. You sound like you know what you are doing, hopefully you can get it figured out.

I was at HRP the same night - sorry, I don't think I met you. If you go back out, e-mail or IM me and I'll go if I can. I only live about 20 minutes from the track. ( and no, I'm not looking to drive your car - I'd never treat someone elses car the way it needs to be treated to get it's best times :lol: )

 

I think that I just might have a "special" Vette that might need some "extra attention" in order to keep up with the rest. Oh well a few less H.P. and a little slower times don't make that big a deal, its still a Vette and I'll love it just the same. :yesnod:

 

people keep suggesting the basic drag racing 'rules of thumb', but, it doesnt appear 02-C5 needs this with his experience. there is something not right with the car if he's pulling 2.1 60' but only blowing thru the traps at 102. that is severely underpowered. ok, maybe not SEVERELY, but, 10% off the mark, which is significant. no stock C5 should be that slow with 60' times <2.3 and hitting all the gears correctly up track. more break in will not yield the missing 10% either. take the car to the dealer.

 

I would not recommend taking the car to the dealer and complain that it didn't run a certain number at the track. Very bad idea. This WILL definitely give the dealer excuses to void to warranty when things go wrong.

The only thing I think of is....maybe you shifted way too early before the peak of the powerband.

-Tuan

 

With you 60ft times, you should be running a little quicker. I'd say you are probably shifting slower than you could be. :cheers:

 

The real concern is the Dyno # were real low. 288 RWHP and 309 T.Q. I have an appt. at MTI tomorrow to see if they can find the problem. :D Might have been just bad gas....I hope.

 

Dyno #s are really low, and trap speed sucks...It would appear there is something wrong...This may sound dumb, but pull out the plugs and inspect them :D

 

Number 6 is a big part of your problem. You need to be shifting as close and as fast to the redline as possible. I drove my car a few times purposely into the fuel cutoff just to see where it was. Here's why

When you shift gears, your rpm's are falling back down to 52-5300 rpm's. So you're getting into second, third and fourth gear at say 5200 rpm's when I'm getting into second, third, and fourthgear at 5800. You want your rpm's to STAY UP! Boweryboy
has made a video from inside his car and I just look at his tack...this is a great way to learn.

Guys in ZR-1's shift at 7000 rpms :eek: and guys in Z06's shift
at 6500 :D

If you look at the power band on a dyno chart for an LS1 motor, the graph peaks between 5800 and 6200 rpm's. This is why your trap speeds are so slow. You're not getting the maxium output of your motor. She's a real **** in this range, esp with headers :D

I know your car is new but don't be afraid to push it. You'll burn through some oil but these are Corvettes. She won't break.

Good Luck!

David In Indy

 

Still as recommended, get a detailed analysis via Autotap or something similar once it gets back on the dyno. Could be simple as a:f ratio. It was for me. I lost 10rwhp by going 5% richer (went from 306 - 296)

George

 

She got a date with MTI tomorrow morning at 9:30. If anyone can figure this out Im sure MTI can. :yesnod: She'll be hooked up to the Dyno for some A:F testing and such. I'll report back tomorrow afternoon. :D

 

Ok I took it over to MTI this morning and the numbers were much better. Dyno 298.2 RWHP and 325.6 TQ. But I did find that she had 6-7* knock retard above 4200 RPM. Its killing my power in the high end. I have no audible knock so I'm gonna replace the knock sensors and see what happens. Anyone else had faulty knock sensors before? I hope it helps.

 

I agree w/ 383. Also, as jschindler said, I too have the stock shifter and ran the time in my sig. I'm sure aftermarket shifters are nice, but people are fooling themselves if they think they make that much difference in the 1320. It sounds like the guy knows how to drive. His 60 ft time is good. I say there's someting wrong with the car. Trap speeds don't lie.
Tuan gives good advice. Take it in and tell them it's not getting the fuel economy you that you expect :yesnod: :lol:

And to the fella who said that's not such a bad e.t. for an M6, I say that's not such a bad trap speed, if it were an A4 :jester

 

I told my service advisor that it was showing 5-7* of knock retard 4200 rpm's and above and that I would like a Tech to drive the car and preform a data log with the Tech II to find the knock retard that I did. I hope to get the sensors replaced under warranty. I have a very understanding and knowledgeable advisor that I think will help me out. Its going in tomorrow, I hope. Also getting the TSB done on the rocking seat problem.


[Modified by 02-C5, 6:45 PM 3/26/2002]

 

Which dealer is this?

Thanks
-Tuan