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So i just recently finished swapping an LS2 403 into my C5 Z06, i am running an LS7 Clutch with a stainless steel line and i am running motul 600 in the hydraulic system, the cars first drive with just a base tune and me shifting at before 3000 rpm it shifted fine, and it did fine the next day too when i drove it 10 miles to work. but when I left work and drove to Deans Performance to get it tuned, it started to have to be double clutched into 3rd and 4th gear. the tuner only started to notice and issue when the car got heat soaked. So i took the car home and bled the clutch out and put motul in it and moved the lines futher away from my headers thinking heat was causing the fluid to boil and then cause me not to be able to shift. but it is still having the issue it is so bad now that i have to double clutch into every gear so of course I have stopped driving the car until i can figure this out. what do you guys think the issue is......
What type of master cylinder and slave cylinder are you using? Are you certain the clutch is disengaging when the clutch pedal is on the floor? Find a large flat area and put clutch pedal to floor and rev engine to 5K or more, does the car creep forward?
So I tried that and the car didn't move at all. But I did take the car for a drive around the block and it had a vibration coming from the rear end like some thing is loose I will check it tonight I didn't work on the rear of the car at all but there is definatly some thing that got screwed up back there. But any other ideas could it be linkage even though it feels like it is shifting fine when the car is not running
So I tried that and the car didn't move at all. But I did take the car for a drive around the block and it had a vibration coming from the rear end like some thing is loose I will check it tonight I didn't work on the rear of the car at all but there is definatly some thing that got screwed up back there. But any other ideas could it be linkage even though it feels like it is shifting fine when the car is not running
How did the torque tube bushings look? What do you mean by "stainless steel line"? Do you have a different setup other than the quick disconnect line between the master and slave?
How did the torque tube bushings look? What do you mean by "stainless steel line"? Do you have a different setup other than the quick disconnect line between the master and slave?
I am not sure what the stainless steel line is but it was installed by Straight line Performace it runs from the clutch reseivor to the slave i believe and there is also a bleeder line too. I am not sure if there is a quick disconnect i will find out tonight though and i am going to look at all of the bushings tonight.
I am not sure what the stainless steel line is but it was installed by Straight line Performace it runs from the clutch reseivor to the slave i believe and there is also a bleeder line too. I am not sure if there is a quick disconnect i will find out tonight though and i am going to look at all of the bushings tonight.
I'm confused over the sequence of events. If Straightline did the work, why aren't you taking it to them?
ok over a year ago they installed the clutch, and this year i did the engine swap myself the car drove fine before i replaced the engine i didn't touch the rear of the car at all except to install my coilovers. the trans shifted fine and the was no vibration at all i am going into the garage now to see if i can find anything wrong i will post up in a little while about what i see
ok so i figured out what the vibration is my driver side outer cvloint boot had a rip in it i guess and the grease for it went everywhere of course. so that has to be the vibration i have been feeling so time for a new axel but that wouldn't explain the clutch issue would it i am now in the process of taking the clutch inspection cover off to figure out what is wrong with that
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